Polishing Before and After

[280 SeaRay]

anyone got some video of how you do these various steps? That would be nice to post in the youtube area!

outstanding idea.... I will see if I can get someone to "film" during the next detail session.

Jeremy...how have you found is the best way to remove the polish from the non-skid area? I apply with the polish with a foam pad....but since the polish is darker colored than wax....it seems like it is harder to remove from the non-skid.

Jeff great question. Polish is always harder to remove if it dries... for this reason I usually work at night. I also use Micro-fiber bonnets over a 7006/7207 pad. The bonnets remove wax or polish nicely. It can certainly be a pain in the neck to remove. Being very thorough with a microfiber towel will also net good results.... but takes a while.

SO you guys actually wax the non-skid with the pad? The texture from the non-skid doesn't ruin the pad?

Yes absolutely. I could not let the non-skid go when the rest of the boat is properly cared for. I compound, polish, and wax the non-skid just like any other portion of the boat. Yes it is a little slicker.... but looks wonderful and is fine to walk on just be careful if it is wet.

Todd, that looks fabulous!
Maybe I missed it somewhere in here, but...what do you guys use to remove the compound/wax/polish? By hand, or with some sort of terry-cloth pad or pad covering?

Tom

Tom a great question as well.... I use only high quality microfiber towels one towel for each product I am wiping off (do not use the same towel to wipe polish and then wax). To speed things up or remove product from non-skid (pain in the butt) I use micro-fiber bonnets over a 7006/7207 pad.



One thing to remember is that ideal compounding, polishing, and waxing (per Meguiars folks) is when the surface is cool to the touch and not in direct sunlight. For this reason I do most of my detailing at night. A warm surface or direct sunlight causes parts of the product to flash off before they have had time to do 100% of their magic.

 

[Nehalennia]

....I use only high quality microfiber towels one towel for each product I am wiping off (do not use the same towel to wipe polish and then wax). To speed things up or remove product from non-skid (pain in the butt) I use micro-fiber bonnets over a 7006/7207 pad.
....

I use the microfiber towels by hand but will be looking into getting the bonnets Jeremy's talking about.

 

[Alex D]

We had did the same with our 340 .... when we bought it it had been moored for three years in the salt marshes of Savannah, GA and the deck looked oxidized...not as bad as yours TOdd but it was dull and obviously was never waxed or polished. the hull had been polished and waxed a few times and was relatively shiny. When we got the boat to our marina, I had the shop do a full service review changing service parts and a full hull and deck compounding and wax. the results always amaze me and I think form comparing to other boats we had that the Searay gelcoat is very resistant and polishes extremely nicely even if oxidized. I have seen otehr boats where the resulta are not nearly as good bring the shine back (Four Winns).

 

[firecadet613]

What model FW are you referring to? My SR was pearl, and that had a different look when it was all polished up compared to the white of my FW.

 

[Alex D]

What model FW are you referring to? My SR was pearl, and that had a different look when it was all polished up compared to the white of my FW.

All FW were the same gel coat and white color ... we had a 2004 248 Vista

 

[Drama Queen]

absolutely beautiful

 

[Nehalennia]

Look Great Alex.

 

[Hampton]

I've spent the last 2 days sanding, compounding, polishing and waxing. I have a Blue Hull. I've dedicated about 9 hours and finished the starboard side, below the rub rail, from the stern to the front of the windshield. Not very much, but it was in really bad shape. As you may remember, I bought the boat at a decent discount based on some serious dock rash. Last winter I filled the dings with Gelcoat.

It took lots of time to figure out what works. Number 1 - tape around repaired areas. Sand with wet/dry 400, 600, then 800 inside the tape only. You can use 800 over larger areas, but they will need attention with compound. The areas that have serious small scratches and scruffing need to be sanded with 800, and maybe 600 first. These areas are created from using fenders without covers.

EDIT: This is wrong - "I learned that the Meguir's One-Step Compound and Polish is Too aggressive for the Blue Hull with the Makita Rotary Buffer. It put swirls in the Gel Coat." It didn't make the swirls, but it couldn't take them out either. The Meguir's Oxidation Remover was a GREAT RECOMMENDATION - Green Balls!

Simple Chart:

Scratch which catches fingernail:
Fill with Gel Coat
Sand 400, 600, 800 wet by hand

Scratch which doesn't catch fingernail:
Sand with 800, or 600, 800 wet by hand

After sanding, or dull surface:
Makita Rotary with Wool Pad - Meguir's Oxidation Remover. Keep pad clean. Add a little at a time and keep buffing. Keep it moving. When the product dries out, brush the pad clean (another green ball for someone), and then use it to dust the area clean so you can assess it. I used level 3 or 4 at most. Sanded areas required up to 5 or more applications. Keep at it until there are no scratches or perceptible dullness when viewed straight on, or at any angle.

After Compounding (step above), or start here on a finish in good condition:
Porter Cable Buffer with polishing pad - Meguir's High Gloss Polish. I used level 5 or 6 of 6. This didn't take very long. All of the work was already done. Edit: Today, I used the Aggressive Cleaner with polish for this step - I really like it.

After Polishing (step above):
Porter Cable Buffer with waxing pad - Meguir's Pure Wax. I used level 5. This went very fast. Edit: There are better wax choices too.

I'll post a picture soon. It is simply unbeleivable. I've wanted the boat to look like this for almost 2 years. It's been a big project, and not at the top of the list. I did most of the port side last winter, but since I didn't own a Makita at the time, I couldn't get the dullness out after sanding.

There are a couple of imperfections where I had to patch some deep scratches, but after a few minutes in the salt water, I doubt anyone would ever see them.

 

[Nehalennia]

Todd remember the #45 is very close to a pure polish...it is great at adding polishing oils and that last bit of gloss, shine, and depth. It will not be very effective at removing swirls created by the rotary or other defects. It does have very minimal amount of diminishing abrasives.... rub some between 2 fingers you will find it is not very course... rather feels oily. #45 is designed to take your surface that is a 9 of 10 and make it a 10 of 10. Getting your to a 9 of 10 may take cleaners/compounds which vary in cut and aggressive-ness.

I used to use #44 color restorer as my everyday cleaner.... but I have found something I like much better (as it is more effective). #49 oxidation remover. I would not get hung up on the name... it is not just for oxidation.

In the Meguiars line here is a list of the cleaners/compounds least aggressive to most.

#44 Color Restorer
#49 Oxidation Remover
#67 One Step Compound
#91 Power Cut Compound

I think that #49 bridges the gap as the last cleaner/compound --> and you can easily step from #49 to #45. I like to use Meguiars 7006/7207 cutting pad (the red one) with the cleaners/compounds. If you are working to clean up rotary marks... I would get a 7006/7207 pad, the porter cable (orbital) and a bottle of #49. If you find #49 is not cleaning up as effectively as you wish... you may want to step up to a bit more aggressive #67.

Good practices that will help is to clean your pad every other 3'x3' section using stiff nylon brush or spur followed by placing a terry cloth over the face of the pad holding it with your hand (removes excess compound/polish, etc). You want to do this as caked up gel coat, oxidized gel coat, and compound or polish will cut down on how effective the pad cuts. One pad per product always.

I will always finish the compound/cleaning step with a final pass of #49 with a polishing pad 8006/8207. I then begin polishing with a 8006/8207 and finish with a final pass of polish #45 with a finishing pad. Then I begin to wax with the finishing pad. Really work the wax into the surface to protect all of the work you just finished.

If you have been compounding and cannot finish the section (finish = compound, polish, wax) I would simply toss a quick coat of wax to protect your work. The best idea is to take the boat offline finish the entire process before it is exposed to the elements (i.e. running in the water, rain, dust dirt, etc). Large plastic sheets can help make a protected cocoon to keep dust off your work.

Todd I am taking a guess based upon your input. If you had pictures of your challenging areas I may be able to help more.... wish I was up there to help.

What speed setting do you have the PC Set at?

 

[Nehalennia]

I've spent the last 2 days sanding, compounding, polishing and waxing. I have a Blue Hull. I've dedicated about 9 hours and finished the starboard side, below the rub rail, from the stern to the front of the windshield. Not very much, but it was in really bad shape. As you may remember, I bought the boat at a decent discount based on some serious dock rash. Last winter I filled the dings with Gelcoat.

It took lots of time to figure out what works. Number 1 - tape around repaired areas. Sand with wet/dry 400, 600, then 800 inside the tape only. You can use 800 over larger areas, but they will need attention with compound. The areas that have serious small scratches and scruffing need to be sanded with 800, and maybe 600 first. These areas are created from using fenders without covers.

I learned that the Meguir's One-Step Compound and Polish is Too aggressive for the Blue Hull with the Makita Rotary Buffer. It put swirls in the Gel Coat. The Meguir's Oxidation Remover was a GREAT RECOMMENDATION - Green Balls!

Simple Chart:

Scratch which catches fingernail:
Fill with Gel Coat
Sand 400, 600, 800 wet by hand

Scratch which doesn't catch fingernail:
Sand with 800, or 600, 800 wet by hand

After sanding, or dull surface:
Makita Rotary with Wool Pad - Meguir's Oxidation Remover. Keep pad clean. Add a little at a time and keep buffing. Keep it moving. When the product dries out, brush the pad clean (another green ball for someone), and then use it to dust the area clean so you can assess it. I used level 3 or 4 at most. Sanded areas required up to 5 or more applications. Keep at it until there are no scratches or perceptible dullness when viewed straight on, or at any angle.

After Compounding (step above):
Porter Cable Buffer with polishing pad - Meguir's High Gloss Polish. I used level 5 or 6 of 6. This didn't take very long. All of the work was already done.

After Polishing (step above):
Porter Cable Buffer with waxing pad - Meguir's Pure Wax. I used level 5. This went very fast.

I'll post a picture soon. It is simply unbeleivable. I've wanted the boat to look like this for almost 2 years. It's been a big project, and not at the top of the list. I did most of the port side last winter, but since I didn't own a Makita at the time, I couldn't get the dullness out after sanding.

There are a couple of imperfections where I had to patch some deep scratches, but after a few minutes in the salt water, I doubt anyone would ever see them.

John,

Pics?

 

[Four Suns]

I'm looking forward to the wet sanding pictures. I had the topsides of my boat wet sanded with 1500 and then compounded last year and the fiberglass looked brand new after it was done... Curious why you needed the more aggressive grits...

 

[caruso1006]

Todd,

First off, great job!! Your boat looks great!

I am very new to CSR (and very addicted, you are all great!) I don't want to sound like an idiot, but would you just give me a quick bulleted list of what you did/products used? I did read your post, but I do not understand what compounding is...and what order you should complete the steps in.

Again, the boat looks great!

 

[Hampton]

Todd,

Working tonight, going directly to boat (no computer) buffing tomorrow, working tomorrow night. Posting pics Thurs AM.

 

[Hampton]

I'm looking forward to the wet sanding pictures. I had the topsides of my boat wet sanded with 1500 and then compounded last year and the fiberglass looked brand new after it was done... Curious why you needed the more aggressive grits...

I'll save you the detailed reading. I patched some gouged areas with gel coat (PO). Also, I wet-sanded some moderate scratches left in the blue hull by fenders without covers.

 

[Gunn]

I've spent the last 2 days sanding, compounding, polishing and waxing.

Great info, thanks!

Tom

 

[280 SeaRay]

I've spent the last 2 days sanding, compounding, polishing and waxing. I have a Blue Hull. I've dedicated about 9 hours and finished the starboard side, below the rub rail, from the stern to the front of the windshield. Not very much, but it was in really bad shape. As you may remember, I bought the boat at a decent discount based on some serious dock rash. Last winter I filled the dings with Gelcoat.

It took lots of time to figure out what works. Number 1 - tape around repaired areas. Sand with wet/dry 400, 600, then 800 inside the tape only. You can use 800 over larger areas, but they will need attention with compound. The areas that have serious small scratches and scruffing need to be sanded with 800, and maybe 600 first. These areas are created from using fenders without covers.

I learned that the Meguir's One-Step Compound and Polish is Too aggressive for the Blue Hull with the Makita Rotary Buffer. It put swirls in the Gel Coat. The Meguir's Oxidation Remover was a GREAT RECOMMENDATION - Green Balls!

Simple Chart:

Scratch which catches fingernail:
Fill with Gel Coat
Sand 400, 600, 800 wet by hand

Scratch which doesn't catch fingernail:
Sand with 800, or 600, 800 wet by hand

After sanding, or dull surface:
Makita Rotary with Wool Pad - Meguir's Oxidation Remover. Keep pad clean. Add a little at a time and keep buffing. Keep it moving. When the product dries out, brush the pad clean (another green ball for someone), and then use it to dust the area clean so you can assess it. I used level 3 or 4 at most. Sanded areas required up to 5 or more applications. Keep at it until there are no scratches or perceptible dullness when viewed straight on, or at any angle.

After Compounding (step above):
Porter Cable Buffer with polishing pad - Meguir's High Gloss Polish. I used level 5 or 6 of 6. This didn't take very long. All of the work was already done.

After Polishing (step above):
Porter Cable Buffer with waxing pad - Meguir's Pure Wax. I used level 5. This went very fast.

I'll post a picture soon. It is simply unbeleivable. I've wanted the boat to look like this for almost 2 years. It's been a big project, and not at the top of the list. I did most of the port side last winter, but since I didn't own a Makita at the time, I couldn't get the dullness out after sanding.

There are a couple of imperfections where I had to patch some deep scratches, but after a few minutes in the salt water, I doubt anyone would ever see them.

I just love when someone see the great-ness they can produce with a little time and effort, good products, and good process. I am glad your results have your wow'd sir. I am a huge fan of #49.... starts aggressive but finishes smooth....

What speed setting do you have the PC Set at?

I have began to use 5 for both compounding and polishing. I step it down to 4 with the wax to avoid slinging product everywhere.

 

[SearayPaul]

Where do you get the microfiber bonnets? That would be an improvement over the terry cloth bonnets I have been using.

 

[280 SeaRay]

http://www.autodetailingsolutions.com/Meguiar's Microfiber DA Polisher Bonnets.htm

 

[Nehalennia]

Sounds good John

Caruso
Compounding is using Rubbing compound formulated for Fiberglass. It's essentially liquid sand paper but less agressive. It removes oxidation, and scuffs, light scratches, scrapes and other imperfections. The next steps are less and less agressive to resurrect the shine in the gelcoat.

 

[Hampton]

I just love when someone see the great-ness they can produce with a little time and effort, good products, and good process. I am glad your results have your wow'd sir. I am a huge fan of #49.... starts aggressive but finishes smooth....

Thanks for the words. I've been putting this off for several months. Last year's job was tons of work and I wasn't satisfied with the results. The Makita is a must for anything greater than light oxidation IMO. Once I get both sides done with this procedure, upkeep should be much, much, much simpler. I try not to play bumper boats, unlike the previous owner. Also, I rarely get in a situation where I need a fender, and I always use covers on them. Also, I'm very aware of each and every object that rubs my boat (dinghy...).

Palindrome 2772.