280 SeaRay
New Member
Todd remember the #45 is very close to a pure polish...it is great at adding polishing oils and that last bit of gloss, shine, and depth. It will not be very effective at removing swirls created by the rotary or other defects. It does have very minimal amount of diminishing abrasives.... rub some between 2 fingers you will find it is not very course... rather feels oily. #45 is designed to take your surface that is a 9 of 10 and make it a 10 of 10. Getting your to a 9 of 10 may take cleaners/compounds which vary in cut and aggressive-ness.
I used to use #44 color restorer as my everyday cleaner.... but I have found something I like much better (as it is more effective). #49 oxidation remover. I would not get hung up on the name... it is not just for oxidation.
In the Meguiars line here is a list of the cleaners/compounds least aggressive to most.
#44 Color Restorer
#49 Oxidation Remover
#67 One Step Compound
#91 Power Cut Compound
I think that #49 bridges the gap as the last cleaner/compound --> and you can easily step from #49 to #45. I like to use Meguiars 7006/7207 cutting pad (the red one) with the cleaners/compounds. If you are working to clean up rotary marks... I would get a 7006/7207 pad, the porter cable (orbital) and a bottle of #49. If you find #49 is not cleaning up as effectively as you wish... you may want to step up to a bit more aggressive #67.
Good practices that will help is to clean your pad every other 3'x3' section using stiff nylon brush or spur followed by placing a terry cloth over the face of the pad holding it with your hand (removes excess compound/polish, etc). You want to do this as caked up gel coat, oxidized gel coat, and compound or polish will cut down on how effective the pad cuts. One pad per product always.
I will always finish the compound/cleaning step with a final pass of #49 with a polishing pad 8006/8207. I then begin polishing with a 8006/8207 and finish with a final pass of polish #45 with a finishing pad. Then I begin to wax with the finishing pad. Really work the wax into the surface to protect all of the work you just finished.
If you have been compounding and cannot finish the section (finish = compound, polish, wax) I would simply toss a quick coat of wax to protect your work. The best idea is to take the boat offline finish the entire process before it is exposed to the elements (i.e. running in the water, rain, dust dirt, etc). Large plastic sheets can help make a protected cocoon to keep dust off your work.
Todd I am taking a guess based upon your input. If you had pictures of your challenging areas I may be able to help more.... wish I was up there to help.
I used to use #44 color restorer as my everyday cleaner.... but I have found something I like much better (as it is more effective). #49 oxidation remover. I would not get hung up on the name... it is not just for oxidation.
In the Meguiars line here is a list of the cleaners/compounds least aggressive to most.
#44 Color Restorer
#49 Oxidation Remover
#67 One Step Compound
#91 Power Cut Compound
I think that #49 bridges the gap as the last cleaner/compound --> and you can easily step from #49 to #45. I like to use Meguiars 7006/7207 cutting pad (the red one) with the cleaners/compounds. If you are working to clean up rotary marks... I would get a 7006/7207 pad, the porter cable (orbital) and a bottle of #49. If you find #49 is not cleaning up as effectively as you wish... you may want to step up to a bit more aggressive #67.
Good practices that will help is to clean your pad every other 3'x3' section using stiff nylon brush or spur followed by placing a terry cloth over the face of the pad holding it with your hand (removes excess compound/polish, etc). You want to do this as caked up gel coat, oxidized gel coat, and compound or polish will cut down on how effective the pad cuts. One pad per product always.
I will always finish the compound/cleaning step with a final pass of #49 with a polishing pad 8006/8207. I then begin polishing with a 8006/8207 and finish with a final pass of polish #45 with a finishing pad. Then I begin to wax with the finishing pad. Really work the wax into the surface to protect all of the work you just finished.
If you have been compounding and cannot finish the section (finish = compound, polish, wax) I would simply toss a quick coat of wax to protect your work. The best idea is to take the boat offline finish the entire process before it is exposed to the elements (i.e. running in the water, rain, dust dirt, etc). Large plastic sheets can help make a protected cocoon to keep dust off your work.
Todd I am taking a guess based upon your input. If you had pictures of your challenging areas I may be able to help more.... wish I was up there to help.
