Official Cummins QSC-500 Thread

Hampton said:
I've updated the first post in this thread with impeller numbers and engine oil test kit details.
Click to expand...

John, I tried to PM you but your mailbax was full. I appreciate your post. One potential correction for Racors. I thought the primary filters were supposed to be 10 micron (2040TM) not 30. At least that is what my Cummins guy told me. 10 micron primary and 2 micron spin on. You may want to re check that. Thanks for starting this thread, I learned a lot from it.

Tom
 
I use 30 micron filters as my primary and 20 micron filters for my secondary. Can the engine specs be that different?
 
CAMELLA said:
I use 30 micron filters as my primary and 20 micron filters for my secondary. Can the engine specs be that different?
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My understanding is that common rail injection requires the lower micron filtration as I noted. I am not familiar with the 480CE but I don't think it is common rail. This could be the answer.
 
The 480CE is the electronic version of the 6CTA. It is not common rail.
 
So, have we figured this out? My manual shows the Racor 1000MA - This doesn't specify the micron level of the filter, does it? My boat actually has the Racor 900MA. I was actually going by experience here on the forum when I bought the ones I did because the manual didn't specify. Anyone have the definitive answer?
 
Racor elements are available in 2, 10, and 30 micron ratings. You can tell by the color of the element plastic. 2 = Brown, 10 = Blue, and 30 = Red. I run 2's for the simple reason that they are easier to change than the port on engine filter. If you have common rail engines( I don't) I would give serious consideration to installing Seaboard Marine's bulk filter ahead of the racors. When you price common rail injectors, you will know why. Visit Boatdiesel, Seaboard's web site and you can learn all you'll ever need about marine filtration systems.
 
bigcam said:
Racor elements are available in 2, 10, and 30 micron ratings. You can tell by the color of the element plastic. 2 = Brown, 10 = Blue, and 30 = Red. I run 2's for the simple reason that they are easier to change than the port on engine filter. If you have common rail engines( I don't) I would give serious consideration to installing Seaboard Marine's bulk filter ahead of the racors. When you price common rail injectors, you will know why. Visit Boatdiesel, Seaboard's web site and you can learn all you'll ever need about marine filtration systems.
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What Microns would you run in each?
 
John,

Most everyone in our area uses 30 micron primaries. Your engine mounted secondary filters trap at 2 microns so your engine/pump/injectors are adequately protected. The idea is to use progressively smaller filtration from the tank to the engine so you prolong filter life and avoid filter changes at sea while still protecting the critical engine parts. We probably have 30 common rail boats in the marina and no one has had an injector failure yet using 30 micron Racors.

The 900MA filter number is 2040PMOR........buy them but the case from: marinefilters.com for about 1/2 the West Marine price.


http://www.marinefilters.com/?gclid=CLvXk6OniJ0CFVRc2god5hbHaQ


The link connects to the wrong filter for some reason......just click around until you find the 2040 filters.
 
Frank, thanks for the tip on where to buy the Racor filters. I bought 8 for the big Racors and 2 for the Gen racor. Don't remeber the cost, but it was quite inexpensive.

Also, for all you guys with QSC's. I bought 2 new raw water impellars for the QSC's. I took off the port pump cover plate expecting to find the impellar worn. It looked like new so I just left It. A few days later, I remembered that starboard pump was a completely new pump installed a few years back because of a bearing failure. So I decided to pull the Port pump apart to see how things looked inside. Everything looked good except there was a little wear on the back wear plate. Looked like it was reversible, so I reinstalled it flipped around. Regardless, since I had the old impellar already out, I decided to go ahead in put a new impellar in. Glad I did. What a diifference the new impellar made in water flow. The water comes out the side exhaust port with much more serious force than with the older impellar. My point is even if the old impellar looks good and there are no broken teeth and such, a new impellar will make a huge difference in water flow. Just thought I would share.
 
Does anyone have a source for the spin on Fuel Filter: 3959612 (Cummins Filtration Part #FF5488)? I can't find it on MarineFilters.com. Thanks.
 
Hi, looking to buy a Sundancer 580

believe there r 2 engine options

800hp Man v 900 Man diesels.

does anyone have any intel on the benefits/preferences of either in terms of capability, fuel consumption and maintenance etc

cheers

richard
 
R Friedrichs said:
Hi, looking to buy a Sundancer 580

believe there r 2 engine options

800hp Man v 900 Man diesels.

does anyone have any intel on the benefits/preferences of either in terms of capability, fuel consumption and maintenance etc

cheers

richard
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I'd start a new string to minimize the potential hijack of this thread. It would also get more visibility.
 
JV II said:
Thanks, John. That's greatly appreciated. Also, I'm not seeing the E1 zincs in half inch and E2 in 3/8 inch. Can you clarify? http://www.boatzincs.com/engine.html
I'm putting together a spare parts bin.
Click to expand...

Just got a shipment from them. When I get back on Friday, I'll let you know what the parts I ordered were. In the mean time, the number after the letter dictates the diameter of the zinc. Just order the number that gives you the correct diameter and length. They are all the same other than size. If there its no"z"after the number, it is the zinc and the base. Z means zinc only. Realize there are two thread sizes. One size its for the base to engine and the other is for the zinc to the base. http://www.boatzincs.com/engine-zinc-only-sizes.html
 
Using info from the OP and other posts on CSR, I've put together a list of maintenance items and links to where you can buy them:

Air Filters:
Walker Airsep WLK1000267

Racor Filters:
Cummins: 2040PMOR(30 Micron)
Onan MDKBM: 2010PMOR(30 Micron)

Oil Filters:
Cummins: BD7309 LF9009, LF9009, LF9009A Donaldson
Onan MDKBM: 0185-5835 Wix

ZF Transmission Filters:
Donaldson
ZF

[FONT=&amp]Fuel Filters:[/FONT]
[FONT=&amp]Cummins[/FONT] (3401544)[FONT=&amp]: [/FONT][FONT=&amp]FUEL FILTER[/FONT] FF5488 Donaldson
Onan:
Napa: Napa 3392http://www.usafilterstore.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_code=U&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=3392
Wix: Wix 33392 http://www.discountfleetsupply.com/wix33392.html

Belts:
[FONT=&amp]Cummins[/FONT] (3289056)[FONT=&amp]: Dayco Poly Rib Gold Label Poly Rib Belt[/FONT] Dayco/Belt
Onan MDKBM: 0185-6934

Impellers:
Cummins (3972366): Impeller Sherwood #26000K Repair Kit
Better yet: http://www.sbmar.com/seawater-pump-impellers.php ask for the o-rings for the pipes if you will remove the pump. These come with a removal tool and are less costly and perhaps better then the Sherwood Impellers.
Onan MDKBM: Impeller Kit for Onan 541-1519

Zincs:
Location on Exhaust
Exhaust Side.JPGFuelPumpSide.JPG
Exhaust: E1 or E-1Z (Zinc Only)
Heat Exchangers: E2 or E-2Z (Zinc Only)
Onan: E-1G Engine Zinc Anode - 3/8 NPT E-1GZ (Zinc Only)
4" Trim Tabs: R3H 4”
Hull Anode: Z24B
2" Shaft Zinc: Camp X-9

Specific to the 48DA:
Wiper Blades: NAPA Part No. 60-3256
 
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My 0.02 on the belts and impellers. In 2009, 2011 and 2012 I did an ocean trip (1,000nm in 2011 and 2012) in my 48. Before each of these trips, I replaced the engine impellers and both engine belts. May be overkill on the impellers as in 2012 they didn't have a ton of hours, but given the cost of the trip and what happens when a impeller stops 'working' it was cheap insurance (of course, even with a new impeller, there are no guarantees). The belts even moreso, I would never leave for a trip without two new belts (note that after replacing them I ran it around the lake for a few weekends just to be safe) and two spares. I get them from my dealer, if memory serves they were $30-$40 a piece. The belts are pretty easy to change (although you will likely work up a sweat!), I do it myself (the instructions I saw further up in the thread are excellent), but as someone else pointed out you really don't want to be changing a belt in heavy seas. I had a belt in 2010 shred while underway and trust me, it doesn't take long before you know it as the engine overheats immediately. Anyway, what prompted me to post was the mention of the breaker bar in the instructions. It's great to carry spare belts with you and I wouldn't take an open water trip without spares, but unless you have that breaker bar there is no possible way you are going to get a belt on. ie. make sure you have the right tools to be able to do the job, not just the spares. I'd also do a set with someone who has done it before, just so you know the little nuances of the procedure, in case you have to do it on your own.

Regards,
Jason
 
jff said:
My 0.02 on the belts and impellers. In 2009, 2011 and 2012 I did an ocean trip (1,000nm in 2011 and 2012) in my 48. Before each of these trips, I replaced the engine impellers and both engine belts. May be overkill on the impellers as in 2012 they didn't have a ton of hours, but given the cost of the trip and what happens when a impeller stops 'working' it was cheap insurance (of course, even with a new impeller, there are no guarantees). The belts even moreso, I would never leave for a trip without two new belts (note that after replacing them I ran it around the lake for a few weekends just to be safe) and two spares. I get them from my dealer, if memory serves they were $30-$40 a piece. The belts are pretty easy to change (although you will likely work up a sweat!), I do it myself (the instructions I saw further up in the thread are excellent), but as someone else pointed out you really don't want to be changing a belt in heavy seas. I had a belt in 2010 shred while underway and trust me, it doesn't take long before you know it as the engine overheats immediately. Anyway, what prompted me to post was the mention of the breaker bar in the instructions. It's great to carry spare belts with you and I wouldn't take an open water trip without spares, but unless you have that breaker bar there is no possible way you are going to get a belt on. ie. make sure you have the right tools to be able to do the job, not just the spares. I'd also do a set with someone who has done it before, just so you know the little nuances of the procedure, in case you have to do it on your own.

Regards,
Jason
Click to expand...

Jason,

Since I'm a seasonal boater I change my impellers and belts every other year. But, when you're talking about a very long trip where you'll log over 1000NM I agree that it's a good idea to change them before the trip. In regards to changing the belts, I don't remember exactly the setup on QSC500, but I can't imagine it's very different from my 450C. It's been a little while, but if my memory serves me right I didn't need anything other then regular crew driver to get the belt off/on, after I loosen the alternator. Is there a trick you're referring to that I don't know about it?
 
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