Official Cummins QSC-500 Thread

I also change mine every season. Cheap insurance and I know the status of those components. I need a breaker bar as well to change the belts. (450C).
 
Alex F said:
Jason,

In regards to changing the belts, I don't remember exactly the setup on QSC500, but I can't imagine it's very different from my 450C. It's been a little while, but if my memory serves me right I didn't need anything other then regular crew driver to get the belt off/on, after I loosen the alternator. Is there a trick you're referring to that I don't know about it?
Click to expand...

1) Remove belt cover with 4 thumbscrews - set screws and rubber washers aside.
2) Obtain 1/2" drive breaker bar or similar.
3) Rotate idler pulley toward center of engine using 1/2" breaker bar in square cutout in pulley.
4) Remove belt.
5) Replace belt.
6) Make sure the belt is in the grooves correctly and release preasure on breaker bar.
7) Start engine and check volts to ensure belt is staying on.
8) Visually inspect belt travel.
9) Shut engine down, replace cover, 4 rubber washers, and 4 thumb screws.
10) Save old belts for emergencies.
 
Alex, John outlined it perfectly - just need that 1/2" breaker bar.

Regards,
Jason (from Miami, looking forward to the boat show tomorrow!)
 
Any recommendations for gear case oil, hydraulic steering fluid, trim oil, coolant?
 
Transmission every other year. Coolant should be tested by lab every year. Fleetguard ES Coolant should last a few years (mine has tested fone for its fourth year now) Not sure about steering and trim fluids....have never changed mine.
 
Does anyone know if there is a raw water pressure reading on Smartcraft for this engine? If so where? It was handy having that on my previous boat.
 
JV II - I definitely did not have that reading on my Smartcraft on my 2005 48DA so I doubt you would.
 
Guys,
Just noticed on my smart craft that my port motor gear temp is 20 degrees warmer then my stb motor. Any thoughts .

Fluids are fine and not burned.

Thanx

Rob
 
My port is always 15 degrees or so warmer as well. Been that way since new and within spec.
 
My transmission temps are also different by about 20 degrees. The oil is due for a change, but still as amber as it was new. No other signs of increased stress on the hotter one. In fact, it runs cooler and with 1-2% less load.
 
JV II said:
My transmission temps are also different by about 20 degrees. The oil is due for a change, but still as amber as it was new. No other signs of increased stress on the hotter one. In fact, it runs cooler and with 1-2% less load.
Click to expand...

I noticed this also along with a slight load difference between the two engines and I was told by the service tech at MarineMax that is was due to the port transmission having a reverse gear in it to change the direction of rotation for the output shaft.
 
bjurkovski said:
I noticed this also along with a slight load difference between the two engines and I was told by the service tech at MarineMax that is was due to the port transmission having a reverse gear in it to change the direction of rotation for the output shaft.
Click to expand...
Ah, that makes sense. Would have thought it was a calibration error in the sensor.
 
I'm going to do much or all of the winterizing of the boat. The one thing that worries me most is preventing engine freezing. Am I right in thinking the engine block won't freeze if I have fresh antifreeze in there?

I understand I have to replace all of the raw water with pink antifreeze. On the QSC-500 are there key drainage points? After drained, is there anything more to do than to just pour pink in at the highest point? Where is that point? How do you raw water out of the hose from the seacock to the strainer? Is an air compressor needed in this process?
 
JVII, If dry docked open the seacock, close the seacock and attach a hose to the strainer and run the pink through the engines until a steady flow of pink comes out the exhaust. If the boat is in the water, close the seacock, use a wet vac and suck the water out of the seacock, attach hose and run the pink. Same process for the ac lines.
 
Jon,

I love how you described diesel winterizing process for which marinas charge hundreds and hundreds in one short sentence. :lol:

But, I'd say there's a bit more involved once you start doing it. Just a part "attach hose and run the pink" will require some homework, unless you don't care about spilling the antifreeze all over the bilge and literally just stick the hose in the strainer and let the pink flow. As with anything, there are different way of doing it, but here's how some of us handle the pink supply and attachment:

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/39333-420-44-DB-Owners-Club/page30?highlight=antifreeze

My setup is very similar to Steve's, but it's just smaller. My bucket is made of a plastic storage box that holds about 10gal, which is more than enough for any application.....Just found the link to mine:

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/39333-420-44-DB-Owners-Club/page33?highlight=antifreeze


AC side is a bit more complex than just run the pink as the pump is not self-prime. This was the reason I purchased the 12v water pump to force the pink in to the system.

Before winterizing engines I like flushing them with fresh water for few minutes using the same plastic cap with garden hose adapter.

Mike, there was a good discussion going, read through those links and fee free to post any questions.
 
Alex F said:
Jon,

I love how you described diesel winterizing process for which marinas charge hundreds and hundreds in one short sentence. :lol:

But, I'd say there's a bit more involved once you start doing it. Just a part "attach hose and run the pink" will require some homework, unless you don't care about spilling the antifreeze all over the bilge and literally just stick the hose in the strainer and let the pink flow. As with anything, there are different way of doing it, but here's how some of us handle the pink supply and attachment:

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/39333-420-44-DB-Owners-Club/page30?highlight=antifreeze

My setup is very similar to Steve's, but it's just smaller. My bucket is made of a plastic storage box that holds about 10gal, which is more than enough for any application.....Just found the link to mine:

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/39333-420-44-DB-Owners-Club/page33?highlight=antifreeze


AC side is a bit more complex than just run the pink as the pump is not self-prime. This was the reason I purchased the 12v water pump to force the pink in to the system.

Before winterizing engines I like flushing them with fresh water for few minutes using the same plastic cap with garden hose adapter.

Mike, there was a good discussion going, read through those links and fee free to post any questions.
Click to expand...

Alex, I was just trying to give him the general idea on how to do it, trying to build confidence. It's easy but does require a lot of work, the first time always takes 10x longer.
 
Yeah, I know. It was just funny when I saw your post and my over 10 pages spreadsheet (which I'm adjusting every year) came to mind. No question that in general it's not a difficult task, just requires time and prep work. For someone who's at least somewhat handy it's very doable and you just have to take your time and follow the proper order of events not to mess very expensive equipment.
 
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