Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

@ 450 hours, your pumps should be fine. If no evidence of leaking, just replace your impellers and cover plates are available on eBay if needed.
 
This might be one of those things not worth the hassle but has anyone installed a remote fuel filter on the starboard engine that didn't have it from the factory? Mine is a hassle to change the filter and I noticed in some other pictures some engines had the remote kit installed so its on the inboard side of the engine next to the HEX. Would make it much easier to change

again, maybe not worth the hassle or risk of detaching all the hoses and replumbling but I'm curious if its been done
 
Strecker25 said:
This might be one of those things not worth the hassle but has anyone installed a remote fuel filter on the starboard engine that didn't have it from the factory? Mine is a hassle to change the filter and I noticed in some other pictures some engines had the remote kit installed so its on the inboard side of the engine next to the HEX. Would make it much easier to change

again, maybe not worth the hassle or risk of detaching all the hoses and replumbling but I'm curious if its been done
Click to expand...

Mine came with the remote fuel filter on the starboard engine. I wouldn't like it on the outboard side...
 
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Strecker25 said:
what else is wrong with the turbo, is it not making full boost? If it’s just that freeze plug I don’t know you need to replace it. Cat even sells the turbine housing separately if need be
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=========

Turbo makes boost but is leaking oil.

P.O. mechanic replaced the freeze plug, which had rusted through due to deferred maintenance of the cooling system. Coolant had lost it's ability to protect.

The new freeze plug leaked as the surrounding surface was pitted due to rusting. Mechanic simply epoxied the freeze plug in, so looks like the best choice here is to replace the turbo complete.
 
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
=========

Turbo makes boost but is leaking oil.

P.O. mechanic replaced the freeze plug, which had rusted through due to deferred maintenance of the cooling system. Coolant had lost it's ability to protect.

The new freeze plug leaked as the surrounding surface was pitted due to rusting. Mechanic simply epoxied the freeze plug in, so looks like the best choice here is to replace the turbo complete.
Click to expand...
That's no good. It's antifreeze behind that plug not raw water.
Those rebuilders are quite good - they would probably machine that boss to the next larger plug.
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
=========

Turbo makes boost but is leaking oil.

P.O. mechanic replaced the freeze plug, which had rusted through due to deferred maintenance of the cooling system. Coolant had lost it's ability to protect.

The new freeze plug leaked as the surrounding surface was pitted due to rusting. Mechanic simply epoxied the freeze plug in, so looks like the best choice here is to replace the turbo complete.
Click to expand...

i can’t argue that logic. I replaced both of them for slightly low boost, and I paid that outrageous CAT markup ;)

our season is too short to mess around so total replacement was my best option
 
Lots of folk have joined the AGM battery club:

WEST MARINE Group 27 Dual-Purpose AGM Battery, 92 Amp Hours | West Marine

For me, well I'm still doing low maintenance lead acid. I tag them with the install date, and when one hits 4 years, it gets replaced, regardless. The Trojan only runs 3, 2 group 27's and a 24 for the genny. Typically I buy them at WalMart - here's the specs:

EverStart Lead Acid Marine & RV Deep Cycle Battery, Group Size 27DC (12 Volt/750 MCA) - Walmart.com


West Marine Wally World Low Maint/Dual Purpose


900 MCA 750 MCA (marine cranking amps)


$310 x 5 = $1,550 $85 x 5 = $425

Just bought a 450DA, her West Marine AGM batteries are 5 years old. Two are weak, and in need of replacement. Surveyor recommends replacing them all.

20 years ago I tried the AGM route and was sorely disappointed.
I know there have been improvements since then but I just don't see the value.

Other than the MCA difference which shouldn’t be an issue here in warm Florida, what am I missing?

BEST !

RWS
EDIT #1: I should add that this boat currently has the original factory battery charger, which may be replaced at some future date with the BLUE SEAS model with the remote panel which I LOVED on my 10 Meter.

EDIT #2: Has anyone successfully installed BCI Group 31 in a 450 DA?

RWS
 
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ttmott said:
That's no good. It's antifreeze behind that plug not raw water.
Those rebuilders are quite good - they would probably machine that boss to the next larger plug.
Click to expand...

=====================

We had good luck running rebuilt turbos back in the 80's on a fleet of MACK trucks.

Do you recall the FT. Lauderdale rebuilder?

BEST !

RWS
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
Lots of folk have joined the AGM battery club:

WEST MARINE Group 27 Dual-Purpose AGM Battery, 92 Amp Hours | West Marine

For me, well I'm still doing low maintenance lead acid. I tag them with the install date, and when one hits 4 years, it gets replaced, regardless. The Trojan only runs 3, 2 group 27's and a 24 for the genny. Typically I buy them at WalMart - here's the specs:

EverStart Lead Acid Marine & RV Deep Cycle Battery, Group Size 27DC (12 Volt/750 MCA) - Walmart.com


West Marine Wally World Low Maint/Dual Purpose


900 MCA 750 MCA (marine cranking amps)


$310 x 5 = $1,550 $85 x 5 = $425

Just bought a 450DA, her West Marine AGM batteries are 5 years old. Two are weak, and in need of replacement. Surveyor recommends replacing them all.

20 years ago I tried the AGM route and was sorely disappointed.
I know there have been improvements since then but I just don't see the value.

Other than the MCA difference which shouldn’t be an issue here in warm Florida, what am I missing?

BEST !

RWS
Click to expand...

i run five group 27’s. Two 27DC’s on the cabin/house side and two 27 cranking on the other engine/cockpit side. Last one is for the generator.

I had my doubts they’d crank the engines over but never a problem. I bought the cheapest batteries I could find at Walmart. They last me at least 5 years typically.
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
=====================

We had good luck running rebuilt turbos back in the 80's on a fleet of MACK trucks.

Do you recall the FT. Lauderdale rebuilder?

BEST !

RWS
Click to expand...
DMS in West Palm Fl.
Dave is the owner
561-622-2587
4950 82nd Street
North Palm Beach Gardens, Fl 33418

My mechanic also said that you must use Cat freeze plugs. They are a unique size that NAPA doesn't carry and Cat doesn't make oversized. He said the standard fix is Marine Tex No 1. He also said do not drive the plug into the housing to remove it must be pulled out. There isn't enough space behind the plug.
Also he said that the Cat coolant if not changed every three years becomes acidic and will eventually corrode things.
 
Last edited:
ttmott said:
DMS in West Palm Fl.
Dave is the owner
561-622-2587
4950 82nd Street
North Palm Beach Gardens, Fl 33418

My mechanic also said that you must use Cat freeze plugs. They are a unique size that NAPA doesn't cairy and Cat doesn't make oversized. He said the standard fix is Marine Tex No 1. He also said do not drive the plug into the housing it must be pulled out. There isn't enough space behind the plug.
Also he said that the Cat coolant if not changed every three years becomes acidic and will eventually corrode things.
Click to expand...
In regards to the coolant and corrosion, does that include the ELC?
 
kvduff said:
In regards to the coolant and corrosion, does that include the ELC?
Click to expand...
Yes specifically. With the ELC the corrosion inhibitors must be checked and possibly supplemented every couple of years.
 
ttmott said:
Yes specifically. With the ELC the corrosion inhibitors must be checked and possibly supplemented every couple of years.
Click to expand...
I believe if you run the RED extended life you do not put in additives and it has a longer life than the green. The red will not get acidic like the green. I run the red in all our cat truck engines with no issues.
 
Jus the two of us said:
I believe if you run the RED extended life you do not put in additives and it has a longer life than the green. The red will not get acidic like the green. I run the red in all our cat truck engines with no issues.
Click to expand...
I’m running the red, and just thought I would be into 15 gallons of coolant come spring.
 
Jus the two of us said:
I believe if you run the RED extended life you do not put in additives and it has a longer life than the green. The red will not get acidic like the green. I run the red in all our cat truck engines with no issues.
Click to expand...
don't you check the coolant as a part of the maintenance? Red, Green, Blue it still needs to be checked.
 
ttmott said:
don't you check the coolant as a part of the maintenance? Red, Green, Blue it still needs to be checked.
Click to expand...
I change it every 4 years, always looks like the new stuff I'm putting back in. Have a 625 Cat with 800,000 miles that never been apart, Still the same Radiator, No corrosion issues.
 
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