OFFICIAL - 450DA Owner's Thread****

[Marius Thorsen]

Hi fellow 450 ownwers, i live in Norway and we have lots of rain;-)
I wonder if anyone has had water cuming out on the carpet outside the door to forward bathroom, and could direct me in any direction to stop the water from comming in.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

can you please be more specific?

 

[Saverio]

Hi fellow 450 ownwers, i live in Norway and we have lots of rain;-)
I wonder if anyone has had water cuming out on the carpet outside the door to forward bathroom, and could direct me in any direction to stop the water from comming in.

I would check the hatches. They should be resealed every 4-5 years

 

[The Bill Collector]

Hi fellow 450 ownwers, i live in Norway and we have lots of rain;-)
I wonder if anyone has had water cuming out on the carpet outside the door to forward bathroom, and could direct me in any direction to stop the water from comming in.

As mentioned you have a large hatch in the ceiling right there and also run the risk of getting a soft deck in that area too if that's where your water is coming from.

 

[Marius Thorsen]

Thank you all for your replies, i have resealed the windows and hatches. But i think i found the leak, it came from the shower door screws, they are screwed into their sliding path, and it was seeping water throo the screw holes. I have now sealed the screws and so far this looks have solved the leakeage.

 

[The Bill Collector]

My grounding repair is now $103K and that includes $10K for lay days in the yard doing the work. Has anyone else heard of the yard doing the work charge for lay days?

 

[The Bill Collector]

With the vacuum generator for the forward head out of the boat, I think it's a great time to replace the duckbill valves. Do we have 1.5" or 2" ?

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

Glad you posted this MArk.

I was unaware of the multiple sizes and just transferred the spares from the Trojan over to the 450.

Will eventually replace them, but it's not too high on the priority list at this moment.

WATCHING!

BEST !

RWS

 

[fwebster]

My grounding repair is now $103K and that includes $10K for lay days in the yard doing the work. Has anyone else heard of the yard doing the work charge for lay days?

Mark-

I am in Florida this week and all of my files/receipts are in Tennessee so about all I can offer you is a suggestion on methods.

The duckbill valves are near the outlet on the vacuum pump…..there is one on the vacuum pump and one on the inlet and another on the outlet end of the waste discharge pump, so you will need a total of 4 duck bill valves.

The waste system is under no pressure and the outlets and inlets are below the holding tank outlets so, the best time to replace parts in the waste or vacuum systems are after you have pumped out the holding tanks aand washed them as clean as you reasonably can. Also, flush the holding tanks and hoses as clean as possible.

Before removing any parts from the vacuum pump, remove the screws holding the pumps on the floor of the bilge so you can elevate the pump housing as high as you can before removing parts you need to service from them pumps. This way, if up do have a spill, it will likely be just a few drops of rinse water from your cleaning out the waste system.

From this point, is is just a matter of removing old parts and repacing them with new ones. Only do one system ar a time because there are some parts differences and you ned to keep the waste and discharge sides separate.

Additionally, order or buy your duckbills from a high volume seller of replacement parts because you don't want to buy your rubber head parts from a big box or discount supplier who may have had the duckbills in a warehouse baking at 100+˚'s awaiting your order.

Good luck, but this isn't a hard job but preparation is is the key.

 

[The Bill Collector]

The pump is sitting on the hard as interior floor is demo'd to access the inside of the v-bottom for the repair. Are they 1.5" or 2" ?

 

[Magic]

Trying to run some electrical cable from the salon sump area to the electrical distribution board.
The cable needs to go through a duct in the area behind the stairs that is near impossible to access via the little trap door where the Beam vacuum is located.

I think my only option is to remove the middle stair step entirely for access as my arms aren't 6 feet long.
This step appears to be glued down rather than screwed down and whatever glue it is, it's impossible to get through
.
Has anyone taken the steps apart before? and can shed any light on the process?

Thanks

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

the bottom step is actually screwed down.

The screws are embedded in the carpet.

Easy for me to locate, as I removed the carpet for replacement.

After replacing the carpet, I set the stairs up with the screws exposed for easy future removal.

This came in handy when I ran the wires to the bilge pump counter, however to do so I needed to use a wire puller and an endoscope, just to see where everything was going.

If you zoom in on the photos, ESPECIALLY THE LAST ONE, you will see where I placed the new screws. This is in the same approx place where the factory screws formerly were, however as I recall, there were more, further spread out and they were smaller than the ones I used.

Suggest you use a sharp awl to probe that area and locate the factory screws which, unfortunately may be covered in carpet adhesive (ugh)

Here's some photos that may be of help.

BEST !

RWS

View attachment 152235

View attachment 152236

View attachment 152237

View attachment 152238

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

CSR not cooperating very well this morning

I'll get back later today, clean up and complete this posting

 

[Magic]

the bottom step is actually screwed down.

The screws are embedded in the carpet.

Easy for me to locate, as I removed the carpet for replacement.

After replacing the carpet, I set the stairs up with the screws exposed for easy future removal.

This came in handy when I ran the wires to the bilge pump counter, however to do so I needed to use a wire puller and an endoscope, just to see where everything was going.

If you zoom in on the photos, ESPECIALLY THE LAST ONE, you will see where I placed the new screws. This is in the same approx place where the factory screws formerly were, however as I recall, there were more, further spread out and they were smaller than the ones I used.

Suggest you use a sharp awl to probe that area and locate the factory screws which, unfortunately may be covered in carpet adhesive (ugh)

Here's some photos that may be of help.

BEST !

RWS

View attachment 152235

View attachment 152236

View attachment 152237

View attachment 152238

RWS you legend!
The whole bottom step can be removed via screws! Who would have guessed! I'll check that out this afternoon.

Are you confirming the flat of the middle step is definitely glued down rather than screwed down?
Why did Sea Ray do that? You can't get the Beam vacuum out through the lower step...or can you? The Beam looks too high...guess I'll confirm this afternoon. My Beam vacuum has rusted out in the base...don't think I'll bother replacing it. Thoughts?

Btw, your photo attachments can't be viewed...says I don't have permission. Was there an option to make them "public" when you attached them?

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

RWS you legend!
The whole bottom step can be removed via screws! Who would have guessed! I'll check that out this afternoon.

Are you confirming the flat of the middle step is definitely glued down rather than screwed down?
Why did Sea Ray do that? You can't get the Beam vacuum out through the lower step...or can you? The Beam looks too high...guess I'll confirm this afternoon. My Beam vacuum has rusted out in the base...don't think I'll bother replacing it. Thoughts?

Btw, your photo attachments can't be viewed...says I don't have permission. Was there an option to make them "public" when you attached them?

The CSR site was having runtime issues when I posted this early, early this morning.

Let's see if I can fix the photo issue.

No glue as I recall on the step - LOTS OF GLUE HOLDING THE CARPET !

BEST !

RWS

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

Photos posted below.

That area should be DRY !

The question on the BEAM, is - Why did it rust out?

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

As I recall, the factory screws were on the horizontal surface of the bottom step - on the left side, through that gray support, and all along the rear.

There were also a couple attached at the bottom, into the floor, on a 45 degree angle, however I chose not to replace those, it's just overkill IMHO.

Hope this helps......

BEST !

RWS

 

[Magic]

As I recall, the factory screws were on the horizontal surface of the bottom step - on the left side, through that gray support, and all along the rear.

There were also a couple attached at the bottom, into the floor, on a 45 degree angle, however I chose not to replace those, it's just overkill IMHO.

Hope this helps......

BEST !

RWS

Super, thank you.

I suspect (before my time) the Beam rusted out because the original fridges were leaking badly. The fridges are replaced now and the area is dry, however the PO chose fridges that are shore power / Gen power only, which means no fridge when on the hook. I'm trying to rectify this, hence the need to run a cable from the sump area, well forward of which I want the new 12v/mains fridge batteries.

I don't want to run the new new fridge off the starter/house combo in the engine room...battery anxiety.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

Super, thank you.

I suspect (before my time) the Beam rusted out because the original fridges were leaking badly. The fridges are replaced now and the area is dry, however the PO chose fridges that are shore power / Gen power only, which means no fridge when on the hook. I'm trying to rectify this, hence the need to run a cable from the sump area, well forward of which I want the new 12v/mains fridge batteries.

I don't want to run the new new fridge off the starter/house combo in the engine room...battery anxiety.

Likely you will be running the wiring along the port side stringers, as I did.

There's a lot of blind spots and fishing wires unaided, or even with a coat hanger is a frustrating experience.

If you haven't already, strongly suggest one of these to make this job far, FAR easier:

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-...sprefix=electric+wire+pull,aps,98&sr=8-1&th=1

BEST !

RWS

 

[Magic]

Likely you will be running the wiring along the port side stringers, as I did.

There's a lot of blind spots and fishing wires unaided, or even with a coat hanger is a frustrating experience.

If you haven't already, strongly suggest one of these to make this job far, FAR easier:

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-56331-Optimized-Housing/dp/B081TVR4N7/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1YU965TPO15IW&keywords=electric+wire+puller+tool&qid=1696335778&sprefix=electric+wire+pull,aps,98&sr=8-1&th=1

BEST !

RWS

Yes, I’m using the coat hanger trick along the port side stringer but I can’t reach into the hole under the stairs. I think you are right the cable puller is likely the way to go.

What did you use as your step trim / edge capping and how did you create the necessary curves around the step?

Cheers

Greg