OFFICIAL - 450DA Owner's Thread****

DowneastSeaRay said:
Hello all - any tips or brands to use/stay away from when replacing the AC raw water pump?
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https://tinyurl.com/3byrhhnn
51kfRdrKdeL._SL1000_.jpg
 
After encountering some rough seas, the flat sliding privacy door between the salon and the fwd berth has an issue.

Appears the rolling support trucks remain attached to the track, however two or more of the stbd side track screws have backed out, as evidenced by their appearance on the floor, beneath the door.

Searching CSR results in no one experiencing this issue before.

Appears I will have to do some major surgery to the closet panels to gain access, unless someone can help me out with another solution.

BEST !

RWS
 
Thought I would share my experience applying vinyl paint to mold infused cushions.
Disclaimer: This is DIY and I'm no expert, just sharing what I did.

Before and after shot:

Cushion.jpg


  1. The cushions have been thoroughly cleaned with soap and water, 3M mold remover and white vinegar to reduce any infused mold.
  2. The cushions have been cleaned in the past to such an extent that the vinyl has worn (not me), but I suspect someone used a magic eraser which can rip the top layers off the vinyl leaving the grey sub-surface.
  3. Final clean with wax and grease remover prior to painting.
  4. I looked at SEM products. The cushions are not Alabaster, maybe Mystic White, but in the end I took one of the cushions to an automotive paint shop where they color matched and provided vinyl paint in a rattle can.
  5. In a clean, dry and still (no wind) garage, I applied 3 light coats (after flash time between coats) horizontal, vertical and diagonal spray pattern. Finally applied 2 fuller coats, horizontal and vertical.
I may apply the SEM Tac Free, although the paint does not exhibit any tackiness. In fact, I can't tell the difference painted vs not painted.

Seems to work well and I like the result.
 
When I initially lowered the selling price on my 10 meter Trojan International, I swapped out some high end equipment with the Sea Ray.

In 2013 I removed the Trojan's VDO tachs and installed a Floscan system set up for the Yanmar 6LP intercooled/turbocharged diesel engines consisting of flow sensors for supply and return on both engines and digital tachometers that also recorded constant GPH, total gallons burned per engine <resettable> and with an interface to NEMA 0183, to provide an instant NMPG total number.

This setup requires an initial calibration and a second calibration after burning off some fuel. Further fine tuning of the calibrations can be done, albeit with diminishing returns, as the first calibration creates tremendous accuracy.

I have completed the first calibration and now have some initial data to share which will be refined as I have more information.

While results on the identical hulls/prop set-ups may vary, here are some takeaways for THIS particular vessel and props:

  • Of note: this boat may weigh in heavier than most 450's as it is equipped with both bow & stern thrusters and two additional Optima batteries forward. Additionally this boat has an unexpectedly heavy vinyl plank flooring, a good deal of non-factory wiring, some of which is high amperage and we generally run with full fridges and carry numerous tools, spares and gear. We'll have a good travel lift weight number at the next bottom job haulout.
  • Boat has clean bottom & props and makes 2800 rpm.
  • Props are 22x22.5
  • Tabs are employed/adjusted/applied in this perlim data to gain the best speed/efficiencies
  • The 450DA hull is in fact very load sensitive. Burning off 1/4 to 1/3 of the fuel load combined with 50% fresh water carried on board results in a 12% increase in efficiency.
  • As fuel burns off and efficiencies increase, so does speed at a given RPM
  • Higher RPM rates (at least with fuller tankage) are more efficient than lower RPM rates
  • preliminary fuel burn is consistently higher than the published CAT table.
A 76 NM run fully loaded trip leg yielded a total average .705 nmpg running between 2200-2400 RPM

FULLY LOADED
2000 RPM @ 16 kts burns 11.5 GPH - CAT data shows 7.5 GPH
2100 RPM @ 17 kts burns 12.3 GPH - CAT data shows 8.8 GPH

Burn off 80 gallons:

2100 RPM @ 18 kts yields .77 nmpg
2200 RPM @ 20 kts yields .78 nmpg

Burn off about 125 gallons of fuel and get into some no wind, smooth as glass water shows some interesting results:

2300 RPM @ 23 kts yields .83 nmpg
2400 RPM @ 25.5 kts yields .89 nmpg

converting that last 2400 number to statute miles is a shock:

29.34 statute miles per hour

1.024 miles per gallon

these numbers began to drop significantly, as sea conditions became choppy.

I'll be sharing more data as it comes available.

BEST !

RWS
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
THANKS - the current problem is the REMOVAL OF THIS YELLOW BEAST !

View attachment 147647

Pulling on it in all directions - appears to be fastened from the bottom, and I can see what appears to be a screw in the left foot closest to the front.

Found only one screw from below - in the cabinet beneath the microwave:
View attachment 147644

there are no other fasteners accessible from below the unit.

Removed the door and every screw to the left side:

View attachment 147645



Removed the screws holding the middle shelf from the next cabinet over:

View attachment 147646

At this moment, there are zero visible screws to remove.

I can usually figure this stuff out, but am now at a stopping point.

PLEASE HELP ! ! !

BEST !

RWS
Click to expand...

Sorry if it was already mentioned, but are you replacing it with another microwave or deleting it? If replacing can you share the model of the new unit? TY
 
remove the plastic feet

screw through the panel, into the base of the new microwave.

use the shortest possible screws as to lessen the chances of doing any damage to anything.

BEST !

RWS
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
remove the plastic feet

screw through the panel, into the base of the new microwave.

use the shortest possible screws as to lessen the chances of doing any damage to anything.

BEST !

RWS
Click to expand...
Can either of you post a pic with the new microwave installed? Mine works but its ugly. What did you do with the coffee maker? Find anything to fit there by the steps?
 
Too bad a K-Cup style won't fit in that spot.

If/when mine fails, I'll be on E-Bay looking for a replacement !
 
Has anyone replaced their forward ac unit? Mine is a cruise air 10k btu. I had to rebuild the pan a few years ago and now this season it has stopped working. I replaced a few fuses in the electrical box and it kicked on for a moment, the. Shut off. The new fuses were still good… looking at a Webasto unit from citi marine. Anyone have a replacement unit that worked for them?
 
 
Hi all. New here. I've been lurking and reading and already appreciate all of you guys and your valuable input.

Looking at a '98 450 with 3126. Likely going to pick it up, but I am aware of an issue it has. The owner is very transparent about this problem and is even reluctant to sell it to me this season pre-repair.

The story is a motor mount on the port side CAT is worn and at about 2k RPM, about when turbo's kick in, this boot leaks. It's been inspected by a mechanic and they are saying 5-6k to replace the motor mount and pull the shaft etc. etc. - I'm not a diesel mechanic, nor do I fully understand how all these propulsion systems work. When a boat mechanic says 5-6k I immediately start budgeting 10k.

Here's a video:

I apologize for the terrible videography. Despite what it may seem like, the problem is not that metal railing that tends to be in focus for 80% of it

Looking for commentary and feedback from ya'll on any similar experiences.
 
kvduff said:
Has anyone replaced their forward ac unit? Mine is a cruise air 10k btu. I had to rebuild the pan a few years ago and now this season it has stopped working. I replaced a few fuses in the electrical box and it kicked on for a moment, the. Shut off. The new fuses were still good… looking at a Webasto unit from citi marine. Anyone have a replacement unit that worked for them?
Click to expand...
kvduff said:
Has anyone replaced their forward ac unit? Mine is a cruise air 10k btu. I had to rebuild the pan a few years ago and now this season it has stopped working. I replaced a few fuses in the electrical box and it kicked on for a moment, the. Shut off. The new fuses were still good… looking at a Webasto unit from citi marine. Anyone have a replacement unit that worked for them?
Click to expand...
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
When I initially lowered the selling price on my 10 meter Trojan International, I swapped out some high end equipment with the Sea Ray.

In 2013 I removed the Trojan's VDO tachs and installed a Floscan system set up for the Yanmar 6LP intercooled/turbocharged diesel engines consisting of flow sensors for supply and return on both engines and digital tachometers that also recorded constant GPH, total gallons burned per engine <resettable> and with an interface to NEMA 0183, to provide an instant NMPG total number.

This setup requires an initial calibration and a second calibration after burning off some fuel. Further fine tuning of the calibrations can be done, albeit with diminishing returns, as the first calibration creates tremendous accuracy.

I have completed the first calibration and now have some initial data to share which will be refined as I have more information.

While results on the identical hulls/prop set-ups may vary, here are some takeaways for THIS particular vessel and props:

  • Of note: this boat may weigh in heavier than most 450's as it is equipped with both bow & stern thrusters and two additional Optima batteries forward. Additionally this boat has an unexpectedly heavy vinyl plank flooring, a good deal of non-factory wiring, some of which is high amperage and we generally run with full fridges and carry numerous tools, spares and gear. We'll have a good travel lift weight number at the next bottom job haulout.
  • Boat has clean bottom & props and makes 2800 rpm.
  • Props are 22x22.5
  • Tabs are employed/adjusted/applied in this perlim data to gain the best speed/efficiencies
  • The 450DA hull is in fact very load sensitive. Burning off 1/4 to 1/3 of the fuel load combined with 50% fresh water carried on board results in a 12% increase in efficiency.
  • As fuel burns off and efficiencies increase, so does speed at a given RPM
  • Higher RPM rates (at least with fuller tankage) are more efficient than lower RPM rates
  • preliminary fuel burn is consistently higher than the published CAT table.
A 76 NM run fully loaded trip leg yielded a total average .705 nmpg running between 2200-2400 RPM

FULLY LOADED
2000 RPM @ 16 kts burns 11.5 GPH - CAT data shows 7.5 GPH
2100 RPM @ 17 kts burns 12.3 GPH - CAT data shows 8.8 GPH

Burn off 80 gallons:

2100 RPM @ 18 kts yields .77 nmpg
2200 RPM @ 20 kts yields .78 nmpg

Burn off about 125 gallons of fuel and get into some no wind, smooth as glass water shows some interesting results:

2300 RPM @ 23 kts yields .83 nmpg
2400 RPM @ 25.5 kts yields .89 nmpg

converting that last 2400 number to statute miles is a shock:

29.34 statute miles per hour

1.024 miles per gallon

these numbers began to drop significantly, as sea conditions became choppy.

I'll be sharing more data as it comes available.

BEST !

RWS
Click to expand...


>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Just filled up

there numbers are verifiable to 5% port, 1.1% starboard.

Will post more "snapshot" data as time permits.

BEST !

RWS
 
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