OFFICIAL - 450DA Owner's Thread****

[The Bill Collector]

I also need to replace the cracked sump box lid top.

Add an access hatch, it makes it a whole lot easier to clean... And yes those are toilet pucks sitting there. I have used them for 14 years of ownership.

 

[400 EC Michigan]

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the cabin sink drains were slow, so I took a garden hose with a focused stream and blew out all the nasty chunks of black yucky debris in the 3 sinks that go to the sump box. Did the showers too for extra measure and poured pine sol down every drain.

Eventually will add a high water alarm in the sump box as well.

For now, please tell me about the overflow hose mentioned above?

BEST !

RWS

followup- my sump box had a hose fitting near the top rear of the sump box (higher than the other inlets). The hose ran from the sump box to the forward bilge sump in the engine room. This prevented any potential overflow fro occurring in the cabin by the sump box. I also used no flex digest or like Mark every few days. I would not recommend using high pressure eater to clean the hoses for fear or failure occurring to a hose or fitting.

 

[bahamabreisus]

To clean our sump inlet lines, I take the top off and use a wet/dry to suck all the drain lines. It is amazing what comes out.

 

[Saverio]

once again, you need to address the non-functioning systems monitor before you address your desire for alarms everywhere. The high water pump in the aft bilge sump triggers the systems monitor alarm horn. In 25 years ownership I never had water accumulate in the sump under the aft compartment and only had the emergency pump activate once.

If the bilge pumps are operating properly, water will collect only to the height where the bilge pump cycles in the front and aft engine room bilge sumps. It will not move from the front to the aft sump.

The 450DA is a very dry boat if everything is as it sould be.

Frank
is there anyway to fix these. when i hit the test button only half of them lite up. Im not sure what the previous owner did and i really cant find out he had since passed. but im missing two leds. looks like they been removed

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

Presently I have no functioning high water alarm.

High water bilge pump does work.

LED systems monitor sends out continuous alarm when connected.

As a temporary fix I'm simply going to wire in one of these:

Amazon.com: Cylewet 5Pcs SFM-27 DC 3-24V Electronic Buzzer Alarm Sounder Continuous Sound Beep (Pack of 5) CYT1083 : Electronics

until I can get the problem sorted out.

Perhaps a study of the Systems Monitor wiring diagram will show me where to make the connection.

Clamps can fail, aged hoses can blow and things can and do happen while tied up at the dock, or while underway.

Imagine how fast a boat would fill with water if an HVAC raw water hose failed, allowing that pump to fill the bilge.....

Anyway, that's my quick fix of the week before I do a complete engine room cleanup and then tear out all the coolers for service and replace all the 25 year old hoses . . .

BEST !

RWS

 

[fwebster]

To my knowledge, thewre is no one repairing these units primarily because the circuit boards are sealed in epoxy.

 

[ttmott]

To my knowledge, thewre is no one repairing these units primarily because the circuit boards are sealed in epoxy.

And there is a fluid (oil for some type) filling the screen. You can still buy the dash module from Marine Max but at over $800 many of us have gone to a far superior Maretron based monitor system.

The primary failure points is the screen becoming unreadable and/or the coaxial data link fails.

 

[Saverio]

I thought it would be a moot point.
I also have two transom bilge pumps. I never understood thou how the compartments under the engines and by rudders drain??

 

[fwebster]

The compartments under the engines are sealed so you won't pump bilge water overboard. You need a Wet-R-Dry shop vac to keep them clean and dry. There are limber holes that drain the rudder post leakage into the aft bilge sump where it is pumped overboard by the aft bilge pump.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

Presently I have no functioning high water alarm.

High water bilge pump does work.

LED systems monitor sends out continuous alarm when connected.

As a temporary fix I'm simply going to wire in one of these:

Amazon.com: Cylewet 5Pcs SFM-27 DC 3-24V Electronic Buzzer Alarm Sounder Continuous Sound Beep (Pack of 5) CYT1083 : Electronics

until I can get the problem sorted out.

Perhaps a study of the Systems Monitor wiring diagram will show me where to make the connection.

Clamps can fail, aged hoses can blow and things can and do happen while tied up at the dock, or while underway.

Imagine how fast a boat would fill with water if an HVAC raw water hose failed, allowing that pump to fill the bilge.....

Anyway, that's my quick fix of the week before I do a complete engine room cleanup and then tear out all the coolers for service and replace all the 25 year old hoses . . .

BEST !

RWS

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could not locate factory "buzzer" high water alarm - likely it is part of the SYSTEMS MONITOR.

Soldered 2 wires in for each of the 2 emergency bilge pumps and ran them to the dash mounted Amazon cheapie alarms for a temporary fix and peace of mind.

did not separate or damage the factory connection in case I change my mind and go to Tom Mott's Maretron system.

While I LOVE Tom's system, I'll likely follow this simpler, direct wired concept for a mechanical "fix" to replace the systems monitor with new LED idiot lights and temp gauges for the gears, and oil & temp for the genny as I plan out the new dash panels.

Just wanted to share this quick fix with the Forum

RWS

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

I know I am asking A LOT of questions here on CSR, and want y'all to know how much I really do appreciate the time taken and great explanations found here on the FORUM.

Hope to be in a position to offer advice & solutions to others as time goes by, however for now I'm still the student.

So, here's my question for today:

Can anyone tell me how this device is used?

I suspect it has something to do with changing the dinette or mid cabin into a bed?

Was I even close?

BEST !

RWS

 

[kvduff]

I know I am asking A LOT of questions here on CSR, and want y'all to know how much I really do appreciate the time taken and great explanations found here on the FORUM.

Hope to be in a position to offer advice & solutions to others as time goes by, however for now I'm still the student.

thinking it supports the
So, here's my question for today:

Can anyone tell me how this device is used?

View attachment 120136

I suspect it has something to do with changing the dinette or mid cabin into a bed?

Was I even close?

BEST !

RWS

My guess is that it is a brace for turning the aft cabin seating into a mattress size sleep space.

 

[fwebster]

The '96's came with a piece of aluminum square tubing to support the aft bunk base and cushions. If that flat bar fits the bracket width of the aft bunk, my guess is the previous owner lost t he OEM piece and tried to replace it with a piece of aluminum flat bar.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

The '96's came with a piece of aluminum square tubing to support the aft bunk base and cushions. If that flat bar fits the bracket width of the aft bunk, my guess is the previous owner lost t he OEM piece and tried to replace it with a piece of aluminum flat bar.

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It's actually a rectangular aluminum tube...

 

[SeaNile]

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It's actually a rectangular aluminum tube...

Mine was rectangular as well. Fits in the aft section to make the L seating into a bed.

 

[400 EC Michigan]

You should also have three plywood boards epoxied grey that rest on top of the hollow aluminum bar that supports the aft cabin filler cushions s. I suggest you check the two storage areas along the port side of the aft cabin

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

And now there's this question:

Spent the weekend cleaning the bilge and entire engine room. In some areas I used a pressure washer.

Shop vacced everything out, and when done and ran a squirrel cage fan down there overnight

Everything is now really clean and dry.

Or rather.... it was.

During the cleanup I found a puddle of water in each of the aft corners of the bilge.

No big deal, I vacuumed them dry.

It was raining the next morning when I took these two photos of the transom, and of the port aft corner:

it's not as clear in the next one, but present nonetheless:

So we have water running down the inside walls of the engine room.

I have my own ideas on this, and I hope it's not the hull to deck joint, but I'll defer to the CSR Brain Trust for an answer from those who have gone before me.

BEST !

RWS

 

[Saverio]

could it be spraying down that 1/4 inch water line? try turning on the water pumps and see. also check the transom shower

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

not spraying - pumps do not cycle on

It's most definitely from the RAIN

Means, would likely also come in in a busy sea.

Ideas?

RWS

 

[The Bill Collector]

not spraying - pumps do not cycle on

It's most definitely from the RAIN

Means, would likely also come in in a busy sea.

Ideas?

RWS

Check all of your cockpit drains and make sure there's no blockage...