OFFICIAL - 450DA Owner's Thread****

DowneastSeaRay said:
This forum is incredible. Thank you all for sharing your years of hard-earned knowledge. I'm working on some winter projects and one of them is a toolkit in an old pelican case I had. I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on must-have tools that are outside the obvious basic tools? Also, probably a silly question, but the boat is new to me. Is there a need for both metric and standard sizes aboard?
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I like the Milwaukee ratchet box wrenches work well on tight spaces. I also like a couple different sizes of fuel line pliers to crimp off any hose in an emergency. I also purchased a Milwaukee battery powered shop vac that is handy for all kinds of cleanup, dump box cleaning, bilge water and drain clogs. Hose clamps work best with assorted sizes of nut drivers vs flathead screwdrivers. I’ve used needle nose vice grips also. I would say under $500 in hand tool total on my boat.
 
I've gotten along well for 20 years with one basic toolbox on my 10 meter, plus infrared gun, ohms meter & filter wrenches.

For the 450DA, going to split the tool box up, keeping all the big stuff, with some redundancy permanently in the engine room.

The smaller stuff can live in one of the abundant floor hatches.

In addition to the tools, i'd bet that somewhere on this Forum, one could also find a specific list of SPARES to carry onboard.

BEST !

RWS
 
All good info! Thanks. I definitely didn't mean to imply that I'd use a metric wrench on standard hardware - that's a recipe for bloody knuckles and stripped hardware! I was referring more to "Cessna mechanics generally don't carry metric tools". I've added a strap wrench (handy for gripping odd shapes) and a knife which is purpose-built for cutting rope. It makes a huge difference when under the boat cutting a snarled line free.

Regarding spares - I bought the Westerbeke spares kit for this model engine. It comes in a sharp pelican style case which I stocked it with a few extras and it fits nicely under the floor.
 
to add to the tool list. i keep an electrician snake, I'm always running wires. either for speakers or lighting. i also keep some jet line and attach it to the snake for future pulls
 
DowneastSeaRay said:
All good info! Thanks. I definitely didn't mean to imply that I'd use a metric wrench on standard hardware - that's a recipe for bloody knuckles and stripped hardware! I was referring more to "Cessna mechanics generally don't carry metric tools". I've added a strap wrench (handy for gripping odd shapes) and a knife which is purpose-built for cutting rope. It makes a huge difference when under the boat cutting a snarled line free.

Regarding spares - I bought the Westerbeke spares kit for this model engine. It comes in a sharp pelican style case which I stocked it with a few extras and it fits nicely under the floor.
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With regards to safety check out https://www.seakits.com/
You can purchase their kits or make your own, all parts they incorporate can be found on the web. Piece of mind.
 
Spent an hour yesterday at the yard, trying to run the big, fat transducer plug/wire from the engine room to the helm.

I even used one of these:

11' Fiberglass Running Wire Cable Coaxial Electrical Fish Tape Pull Push Kit: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

There would have been room if she wasn't equipped with a helm heater/defroster.

We splash this afternoon to go home from a marina with skinny winter water depths. Gotta have the sounder.

So, I'm gonna take a hole saw and a piece of PVC pipe to make a new opening for there wires and other "future" wires.

Perhaps a 2" hole where I'll then 4200 the PVC in place to protect the balsa core.

Wish me luck !

BEST !

RWS
 
SHE'S HOME !

IMG_0860.JPG
IMG_0861.JPG


The boatyard adventure is over, and we made it out for the hill tide.

I do appreciate all the input and info I have received here on the FORUM over the past 7 months of discovery, education and investigation to get to this point.

Most importantly, Mr. Frank Webster for sharing his passion for the 450DA and who has been so instrumental throughout this process, and a tremendous asset in evaluating all the 450 DA's that were under consideration, and a newfound friend.

I'll post the boatyard results, some of which may be helpful to othere here on the Forum.

BEST !

RWS aka Maybe a Dancer - finally IS ONE
 
SHARING THE HAULOUT DETAILS

Replacement of the aluminum backing plated was recently covered some posts above.

Here's a few yard things to share:

For those of us cursed or blessed with the cable winder, access to the rudder packing and other items in the port transom area can be more easily accessible by removing the vertical 2x4 post that also supports the shorepower breaker box. For future ease of access, we replaced the factory fasteners with 1/4 x 20 through bolt fasteners to make future removal of this post easier.

PO had rudder shaft seal packings replaced 26 months ago. Yard charged for both sides (I have the invoice). It was pretty clear that the port side (cablemaster) was not done as the packing on that side was clearly many, many years old.

We decided to add a pair of clamps:

IMG_0785.JPG


to the rudder tops to insure they would never slip down/drop out and sink the boat.
Boat Manufacturers - SeaRay - 48 Sea Ray rudder problem (boatdiesel.com)
this was not an issue for my 10 meter, as those rudders were mounted high above the water line, inside the transom and have no packing.

We also found some evidence of previous galvanic corrosion on the shafts, but were able to clean it up to an acceptable level.

Removal of the fairing block & old transducer revealed that the PO's yard attached the ducer right to the bottom paint. DING, DING, DING.... we had some weeping at the stern thruster's bottom 3 bolts. Planned on only rebedding them, but the PO transducer issue gave us pause. Decided to remove & reseal the stern thruster and found that PO yard did not remove the bottom paint:

IMG_0791.JPG

we found the same and prepped it to be sealed correctly.

Upon installation, we found one shoulder bolt had a shoulder a bit too long to allow it to be tightened properly :(

Boy am I glad we decided to R&R that stern thruster !

More to come...

BEST !

RWS
 
Meanwhile,

At the present time the high water alert/alarm/LED light system is non functional.

I took a great deal of comfort with my 10 meter, which had factory high water alarms connected to the horns in all 3 bilges.

The lowest bilge (at rest) has a bilge pump cycle counter

At a minimum for now I will feel more comfortable with at least one alarm and one counter.

Can anyone tell me where the lowest part of the bilge is at rest on a 450 DA?

BEST !

RWS
 
Thank you.

Eventually I'll have a counter and high water alarm in all 3 bilges.

For the moment the factory high bilge pump works, but sends no message to the helm and sounds no audible alarm.

I simply want to get one set up quickly for my own anal and overly cautious peace of mind till I can get the 3 all done up correctly.

And yes, I close the engine, genny and HVAC seacocks when the boat is not in use. Wish I had better access to the waste seacock, but my 6' 215lbs chest does not fit in that space.

Now, the float switch for the factory high water bilge pump is located aft by the genny.

When you're on plane all the water would likely end up there.

So to be more specific the question is, at rest, more water will collect in:
  • mid cabin bilge ?
  • fwd engine room bilge ?
  • aft engine room bilge ?
Perhaps I'll just do the 2 engine room bilges together this weekend.

Eventually I'll work into two independent, higher mounted additional bilge pumps to satisfy my own need for redundancy. I know the need for this obvious overkill is unlikely - it's just me.

Same goes for the BOREL high exhaust temp alarm.

My plan is to tie the bilge system to the genny battery since it is separate and electrically independent of everything else.

Eventually I'll have a high water alarm in all 3 bilges AND one in the sump box.

EDIT:

On second thought, maybe i'll simply wire 3 of these into the engine room junction box where the systems monitor is located:

Defender Search Results

Quick & easy and gets the job (for now) done

BEST !

RWS
 
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once again, you need to address the non-functioning systems monitor before you address your desire for alarms everywhere. The high water pump in the aft bilge sump triggers the systems monitor alarm horn. In 25 years ownership I never had water accumulate in the sump under the aft compartment and only had the emergency pump activate once.

If the bilge pumps are operating properly, water will collect only to the height where the bilge pump cycles in the front and aft engine room bilge sumps. It will not move from the front to the aft sump.

The 450DA is a very dry boat if everything is as it sould be.
 
mid cabin bilge ? Zero, unless you have a fresh water leak
fwd engine room bilge ? A little from A/C condensation
aft engine room bilge ? If rudder packs weeping, you will have a little
 
I agree with Frank and Mark but want to also stress the need to take care of the common shower drain sump, pump and float. It is important to keep this clean, operational and the float level set correctly. Just follow the drain hoses from the sinks, showers and A/C condensate hoses to the sump. You will also note an overflow hose leaving the sump box…..
 
400 EC Michigan said:
I agree with Frank and Mark but want to also stress the need to take care of the common shower drain sump, pump and float. It is important to keep this clean, operational and the float level set correctly. Just follow the drain hoses from the sinks, showers and A/C condensate hoses to the sump. You will also note an overflow hose leaving the sump box…..
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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

the cabin sink drains were slow, so I took a garden hose with a focused stream and blew out all the nasty chunks of black yucky debris in the 3 sinks that go to the sump box. Did the showers too for extra measure and poured pine sol down every drain.

Eventually will add a high water alarm in the sump box as well.

For now, please tell me about the overflow hose mentioned above?

BEST !

RWS
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

the cabin sink drains were slow, so I took a garden hose with a focused stream and blew out all the nasty chunks of black yucky debris in the 3 sinks that go to the sump box. Did the showers too for extra measure and poured pine sol down every drain.

Eventually will add a high water alarm in the sump box as well.

For now, please tell me about the overflow hose mentioned above?

BEST !

RWS
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I wouldn't put any harsh detergents or chemicals in the sump box. There is a tiny check valve "duckbill" on the outlet of the pump that will be damaged.
 
ttmott said:
I wouldn't put any harsh detergents or chemicals in the sump box. There is a tiny check valve "duckbill" on the outlet of the pump that will be damaged.
Click to expand...

My check valve lasted 20 years before I replaced it... 4 years ago. Carter's Poopy Powder, I would not place in the category of harsh chemicals.
 
ttmott said:
I wouldn't put any harsh detergents or chemicals in the sump box. There is a tiny check valve "duckbill" on the outlet of the pump that will be damaged.
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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I was aware of the check valve issue, therefore I used no bleach.

The bromide tab idea or clorox toliet drop ins are likely bad as well.

Seems that the PINE SOL applied in each line when departing the boat might soften up some of the gunk in the sink/shower drain lines.

Is it safe ?

I also need to replace the cracked sump box lid top.

Al this and i haven't even yanked the coolers, hoses or turbo yet !

BEST !

RWS
 
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