Official 390 E.C. Thread

Thanks for the info! Looking forward to getting this project behind me. Just ordered a pair of Klipsch CP6's. Going to research an AMP next and get that on order. Next project is replacing the aging panels behind my gauges and switches. Going to search the forum later, but if anyone has suggestions off hand that would be great.
 
br1212 said:
Thanks for the info! Looking forward to getting this project behind me. Just ordered a pair of Klipsch CP6's. Going to research an AMP next and get that on order. Next project is replacing the aging panels behind my gauges and switches. Going to search the forum later, but if anyone has suggestions off hand that would be great.
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Floundeepounder.com has reproduction dash panels for the 390. They are wood reproduction and a full set runs about $600.
 
Nope just asking. Lol
i have the same project going to replace the simrad GPS. Got a garmin 740 for Xmas the cut out is smaller. Was going to replace whole section with starboard. Saw it comes in colors was thinking of black or blue. Since my dash is blue.
 
skillz48047 said:
No signal loss via speaker wire i used 10ga wire though.......
little bit of a PITA to snake the arch but not a big deal
bus bars do NOT have enough power for a amp
definitley need to run wires to the batteries
silicone comes out easy enough just replace it with GE silicone I from home depot
easy!
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I will be tackling the silicone this weekend. I took a quick look at it after I dropped the 4 gauge wire from the electrical panel down behind the steps. A few pry's with the utility knife didn't get me anywhere. Any tips to easily remove that wad of silicon? I don't want to risk cutting into any of the wire bundles. Would it be easier to just make a new hole and re-seal it?
 
I just snaked the wire through the silicone and it went fairly easy
if u try ripping some of the silicone around the outside of the hole u will see the best spot to try to go through then just reseal with silicone
if this doesnt work makng a new hole shouldnt be a problem just reseal it and u will be fine
 
I think it might be easer making a new hole. I t would be easer to seal due to the old one your going to have old silcon in it. I would get power from the battery and run it high on the stringer and install my fuse their than strap to the bulkhead as high as you can and drill your hole. see if you can pick up the zip ties with mounting hole in them makes the job easer and looks professional.
good luck


Saverio
 
New holes made...Thanks for all the suggestions. Mounted a hinge on my access panel. Located amp there, and snaked 14 gauge speaker wire through the radar arch. 70 feet of high end cable in total, and 16 feet of 4 gauge ground and power wire. all in all I think the cables and wire cost most than the equipment! Thanks for the suggestions...Now just waiting on my speakers to get here in the mail so I can mount everything. It's nice knowing the hard part is done. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
Okay - so my next project is getting my seats to look new again. When I bought it they were in pretty good shape. Sadly there is a dirt road 20 feet from where my boat stays, and a winter of dust has settled in and made the seats look pretty bad. A brush and soap isn't doing it. Any suggestions for deep seated stains? I've search around the forum and found that a few had success with 3M rubbing compound. Anyone else tried that? Any other tips from those of us who have cleaned up these old girls? the forum is not the easiest to search and dial in with threads since there's 40-50 pages of discussion on threads.
 
Question on my Windlass. It's a Good Automatic Free Fall. It's just clicking when I activate the helm switch and will not release rode. Seem's like it may need a new solenoid. Going to get the manual out while I drink a cup of coffee and see if I can help diagnose it. I'm thinking maybe I hit something in the electrical panel while I was installing my amp or running wires? Or perhaps the unit was just ready to die on me. Who knows. If anyone has that model windlass and can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.

Made the mistake of not checking it before I departed on Friday and couldn't drop anchor in a cove to whether a nasty hail storm. Who knew April would bring such fierce storms when it didn't even break 80!
 
You will need to check for voltage at the terminal of the motor. If you get 12 volts when activating the solenoid then try tapping the motor lightly with a hammer while activating the solenoid. Could be time for a new motor.
 
hottoddie said:
You will need to check for voltage at the terminal of the motor. If you get 12 volts when activating the solenoid then try tapping the motor lightly with a hammer while activating the solenoid. Could be time for a new motor.
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I will need to figure out how to take apart the motor housing. I didn't look at it long as I was in a hurry. I bypassed the solenoid just to make sure that wasn't the issue. I'm guessing that since I bypassed it, and gave a direct feed to the motor then it's time for a replacement. Will call Good Windlass tomorrow and see if there is anything I'm missing.
 
I took mine apart a while ago. Had the rope jamb up. Their is a bunch of Allen screws that hold it together. U can remove the top case off of it. U can remove the drive gear and add oil to the case. With drive gear removed u can confirm that it's a motor issue. If the motor is bad I'm assuming that it would draw a lot off current.
 
Saverio said:
I took mine apart a while ago. Had the rope jamb up. Their is a bunch of Allen screws that hold it together. U can remove the top case off of it. U can remove the drive gear and add oil to the case. With drive gear removed u can confirm that it's a motor issue. If the motor is bad I'm assuming that it would draw a lot off current.
Click to expand...

I tried to take the top housing off. One of my allen screws was stripped. Will have to drill it out. I took the advise to tap the motor and it rattled to life for a second. So my guess is she is ready to be freshened up. All I care about is getting the rode unstuck for now. I can have one of the many first mates pull the anchor up. Will have somebody hit the down switch as I tap the motor. Hopefully it will work long enough to release the rope and go into free fall.

Here is a pic of my Klipsch's attached to the arch. Sound quality is outstanding for easy listening or partying. Now it's time to detail the boat. Never ending!

 
Again I turned to the 390EC Brain Trust for help. Two questions:

1) My boat has the dual horns mounted on forward deck just in front of starboard windshield. It appears they're the original horns. I was unable to release the bezel/trim plate mounting the base, and when I removed the back plate from one of the horns it was filled with rust. It would seem I could just find a replacement dual horn to mount here, but the job isn't that easy. All the dockside mechanics at our marina tell me this is an electric horn and I'll have to remove the headliner inside to remove the horn. As if that's not enough, I can't seem to find a replacement with a similar base/bezel, so it appears whatever I get won't match properly (I'm all about OEM looking stuff). I do notice that there seem to be a lot of these type horns that are AIR HORNS and they all look like mine. But how can that be if mine is electric? Any insights here?
2) The other remaining problem I've never addressed is the Jabsco/Rayline spotlight. It's a beautiful piece of machinery mounted on the pulpit behind the anchor rode. It moves left and up when the controls are used, but to go right or down one must push it by hand. I opened it and everything inside is clean and tight. Should I disassemble and lube it or should I look for other potential causes first? AND... should I need replacement, is there a shop somewhere that will just rebuild this thing? These models seem to go for close to a thousand; I'm not trying to dump that much cash into it right now.

Once these last projects are completed I'd like to think I'll be able to sit back and enjoy water for a while. Oops! Who am I kidding... certainly something else will be dropping out soon!

Thank in advance for your questions and/or comments. I continue to learn from you guys all the time!

Chris
 
Your forward deck is cored and the horns are screwed to the outer skin and coring. You do not need to pull down the headliner to access them. I hated that location on my 390EC and removed the horns from the deck and filled the holes with epoxy and gel coated the deck, then replaced the horns with a compact set of air horns mounted on the arch.

I had the same spotlight and it just worked flawlessly for the 9 years I owned the boat……I never looked inside or became familiar with it's innards, so I'm no help there.
 
For the light....i moved the wires on the switch one position to see if perhaps the switch was bad. (Up/down should now move light left/right). Yup. Bad switch.
 
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