Official 380 Thread

Getting ready to launch. Still on dry land,..plugged extension cord with 30 amp connector plug into line 1 circuit on boat and all is well. Plug the same extension cord with same 30 amp plug into line 2 and the minute I turn any breaker on, it blows the gfci in the pole at the marina. Any suggestions?
 
Is it the line with the inverter/charger on it? Are your batteries connected? How long is the extension?
 
Line one has batteries and inverter. No problem there. Batteries are hooked up. Bad line is line 2. Power stays up until any breaker on that circuit is turned on and drawing any power. Cord is probably 100 feet but works fine with line 1.
 
pgflrob said:
Does anyone, Don?, have expected performance for the 292HPs and they are definitely according to Cat 3126s! Plus that is what the label says.
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Did this boat happen to be in St Pete area? I came across an identical setup online, still or sale though but curious.
 
Has anyone added a rod holder (grill mount) on rear port side of a 380? There's a nice flat surface in the back right behind the step up to walk up to the bow but I'm really unsure what's underneath it...
 
I didn't install the rod holders - they were there when I got the boat. Seen here on port side, just above the transom door hinge. One on starboard, same spot. So I guess it can be done...

0621131139_zps4c4a4435.jpg
 
Pseudomind said:
Any ideas, My Raynav 300 GPS, once you can get it turned "ON" tends to work fine, turn it off and you have to repeat this procedure. I have to unscrew and remove all of the front panel screws, 15 in total, disconnect the PWR/NMEA cable, reconnect it and it will then power back on and work normally.

Like I said, "any ideas?"

Thanks

:thumbsup:
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I am not sure of the exact Raymarine Multifunction display we have on our 380DA, but it has a similar issue. Sometimes it will not turn on. I have removed it several times checked the wiring and cleaned connections. Everything I do "fixes it" for a while. I found that if I get a beer, and sit at the helm pushing the "Power" button, over and over, patiently, every 3-4 seconds, it will eventually come on without all the extra work. And it will be fine for a time. It is a shame because other than the SLOW re-draw time (and the occasionally won't turn on thing) the plotter is excellent, and the open array radar is just awesome. My local tech guy says to wire the display unit so it has power all the time, and "sometimes that works". All our other boats have had Furuno Electronics, so I am afraid there is a big bill I my boating future. We have FOG here, and we do some coastal navigating. I need a Chart Plotter and Radar that work when I hit the 'on' button. Every Time. Same Reason I have a SW Revolver instead of the Automatic. When your life is on the line you do not want to be fussing around with unreliable equipment. I have used Furuno equipment in wind, and storm, and caught out in rough conditions. Made Pfeiffer Cove anchorage in the Fog and Dark of 11PM, snuck our boat into both Monterey Harbor and Half Moon Bay in 50-100FT visibility, and got into Santa Barbara Harbor at 3AM despite Fog and confusing lights. When conditions go to hell, reliable equipment is the difference between a nice cup of coffee at the dock, and a hypothermic ride in a CG Helicopter. Keep a good back up handy until you arrive at a solution!
 
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When were the duck bills replaced last? Since the pump is detecting a pressure drop, I don't think the line is plugged, so it sounds like the pump can't build pressure.
 
If not duck bills, there's a microswitch that senses that it has reached pressure. If that switch goes bad, it won't stop pumping. Had to replace that on my previous boat. I first did the duck-bill replacement and that didn't help. Microswitch did.
 
It sounds like the system is not building vacuum. " Bowl says full", "pump keeps running". The microswitch is supposed to shut off the pump when the correct vacuum is achieved, but if the microswitch was faulty the bowl should still clear. I vote for the duck bill valves, or the seal on the pump piston.
 
Bowl remaining full implies that there's isn't a leak at the half-ball. If the 1/2 ball doesn't seal up, the water will disappear and the pump wouldn't be able to create adequate vacuum, so it would keep pumping.
 
Just happened to me....changed out the duckbills, and didn't fix. Found a split in the bellows. Replaced the bellows, and all is good.

Good luck,

Don
 
Did yours create vacuum with bad bellows?
 
Good to know, first I've heard of bellows going.
 
Interesting. Never hear of that one either. Ah, the endless possibilities for s*#t to go wrong.
 
Replacement lights are expensive. You can purchase G4 LED bulbs on Amazon. They will fit in your light fixtures. I have the exact lights on my 2002 380DA. The lights are more than likely discontinued. The bulbs you now have are halogen and burn very hot. They should have two small pins at the base that just push into the fixture and burn very cool and of course save your battery charger.
 
Need help!! After running for an hour or so, and after coming off of plane, my port engine starts this weird surging thing. The alarm will sound momentarily and every once in a while the TPS1 No Adapt code will flash. The code says that the TPS is bad so I've changed it twice now and still the same issue. Any other ideas??

Tim
 
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