Official 380 Thread

[jzanthony]

The 380 I bought this fall has a rusty anchor. Anyone have suggestions on replacements or tips on restoring the existing one?

I believe its a Kodiak 35lb anchor

 

[jzanthony]

Little bit of updating here. All hull stripes removed, and badging updated.

Looks amazing, will be completing this in the next couple months while the boat is away. Not sure on deleting the top stripes but this makes it more tempting.

 

[bracketracer]

Thanks. Yeah, I'll get better pictures once it's out of the building. Things are pretty tight in there.

 

[Chris-380]

Little bit of updating here. All hull stripes removed, and badging updated.

Looks Great!

 

[Bruce SEA 993]

A little update from North of Seattle...

We pulled the boat on the 20th and the yard power washed and painted 2 coats of bottom paint. They include the pull, power washing, tarps, the paint and storage time in the bottom paint charge. I would be painting it myself for almost no savings.

If you look close, lots of junk on running gear:

You can see the crud on the running gear after they scraped:

So I am going to green scrubby the props and rudders and etc and paint with Pettit Barnacle Barrier. That should keep me out of trouble for a while. Has anyone else done this?

Also, we were having trouble starting the engines...start switches did nothing. Eventually, by hitting the "Emergency Start" button the starter would engage. The engines lit right off. I think the emergency start bridges the two battery banks. The batteries are toast according to the local electrical guy...separate and not associated with the yard.

So anyhow, it seems that the house batteries are also the start batteries. Interesting that Sea Ray did this. I am replacing the bad house/start batteries with dedicated deep cycle batteries for the house and a separate pair of start batteries. Again, anyone else have experience with this?

Happy New Year!

 

[Chris-380]

A little update from North of Seattle...

We pulled the boat on the 20th and the yard power washed and painted 2 coats of bottom paint. They include the pull, power washing, tarps, the paint and storage time in the bottom paint charge. I would be painting it myself for almost no savings.

If you look close, lots of junk on running gear:

You can see the crud on the running gear after they scraped:

So I am going to green scrubby the props and rudders and etc and paint with Pettit Barnacle Barrier. That should keep me out of trouble for a while. Has anyone else done this?

Also, we were having trouble starting the engines...start switches did nothing. Eventually, by hitting the "Emergency Start" button the starter would engage. The engines lit right off. I think the emergency start bridges the two battery banks. The batteries are toast according to the local electrical guy...separate and not associated with the yard.

So anyhow, it seems that the house batteries are also the start batteries. Interesting that Sea Ray did this. I am replacing the bad house/start batteries with dedicated deep cycle batteries for the house and a separate pair of start batteries. Again, anyone else have experience with this?

Happy New Year!

The 380 battery system is a little different. The port engine has 2 batteries and also does some house. The starboard engine has 2 batteries and also does the house, the fifth battery is dedicated for the Genny. I think the thought process was, if you ran the 4 batteries down, then you could start the genny and be able to charge the others enough to start them.

after one season, the factory setup has worked. I go out for overnights with the 2 fridges and stereo, along with lights etc

haven’t had much issues. If I was buying batteries, I would get the Rolls 6v that Amajamar posted a page back from sams club. Seemed to be priced right imo

 

[Chris-380]

Bruce

This is the post that amajamar shows the upgraded batteries

For me, my favorite was the installation of a new helm switch panel which allowed installing the second chartplotter, Beyond that, the cockpit refrigerator for icemaker swap was great, the installation of Seablaze X2 Spectrums, replacement of Raymarine VHF to Garmin, And adding windhield washer squirters (our 01 did not originally have them) was really great, too!

Replaced the galley and head faucets with single handle ones, which is also a nice improvement. Installed an additional table mount in the cockpit to move the table to the port by about a foot, which really improves access to the starboard side of the seating area! We removed the TV from over the fridge and moved to the other side of the cabin, which made more storage space in the galley.

Also installed Mercruiser NMEA gateway, so have engine info on Garmins, which is nice as well. Upgraded the house battery bank to two Rolls 6V 250 AMP, and installed a battery monitor. Replaced all the cabin bulbs with LEDs, which is saving lots of juice!

My boat does have a camper with no rear vertical bars, which we love, with all eisenglass panels, which initially I thought we would hate, but it's really awesome! In the colder boating season, we are inside and warm, while feeling like we are outside, and we can travel with it closed and have full visibility. The panels have screen panels if we want to install, and each panel can be rolled up and left in place or removed. It works out super and we now love it!

View attachment 77622 View attachment 77623 View attachment 77624 View attachment 77625 View attachment 77626 View attachment 77627 View attachment 77628 View attachment 77629 View attachment 77630View attachment 77631

 

[Bruce SEA 993]

Thanks for the tips back to amjamar's post.

I am going to replace the port and starboard start/house batteries (2 ea) with 2 deep cycle for port and 2 for starboard. Then I will have 2 dedicated start batteries that will also run the stern thruster. Then also the generator battery. So that is 7 batteries in the engine room. Up front there are two AGM start batteries for the bow thrusters. They also have a dedicated charger...a ProNautic 12-10P.

Stern thruster:

I will get a picture of the bow thruster tomorrow.

Cheers!

 

[jzanthony]

Thanks for the tips back to amjamar's post.

I am going to replace the port and starboard start/house batteries (2 ea) with 2 deep cycle for port and 2 for starboard. Then I will have 2 dedicated start batteries that will also run the stern thruster. Then also the generator battery. So that is 7 batteries in the engine room. Up front there are two AGM start batteries for the bow thrusters. They also have a dedicated charger...a ProNautic 12-10P.

Stern thruster:

I will get a picture of the bow thruster tomorrow.



Are those additional supports for the swim platform so you can carry a heavier dinghy.

I sold my center console dinghy it weighed about 450lbs total weight but maybe i could have added additional support

Jamie

 

[Bruce SEA 993]

So the installer finished today and is headed back to Victoria, BC. I will have the local guy in next week to reconfigure the batteries and also to wire in the charger for the bow thruster batteries.

I have a laundry list of stuff to do an will regale you all with updates.

Here is the Bow Thruster without the cover and before the black bottom paint. You can see the wires going through above the water line.

 

[Jeff Harrison]

A little update from North of Seattle...

We pulled the boat on the 20th and the yard power washed and painted 2 coats of bottom paint. They include the pull, power washing, tarps, the paint and storage time in the bottom paint charge. I would be painting it myself for almost no savings.

If you look close, lots of junk on running gear:

You can see the crud on the running gear after they scraped:

So I am going to green scrubby the props and rudders and etc and paint with Pettit Barnacle Barrier. That should keep me out of trouble for a while. Has anyone else done this?

Also, we were having trouble starting the engines...start switches did nothing. Eventually, by hitting the "Emergency Start" button the starter would engage. The engines lit right off. I think the emergency start bridges the two battery banks. The batteries are toast according to the local electrical guy...separate and not associated with the yard.

So anyhow, it seems that the house batteries are also the start batteries. Interesting that Sea Ray did this. I am replacing the bad house/start batteries with dedicated deep cycle batteries for the house and a separate pair of start batteries. Again, anyone else have experience with this?

Happy New Year!

On mine the rudders, and exhaust were bottom painted. Just pulled it for the first time in two years and they were clean.

 

[Jeff Harrison]

Just got our boat out for the first time. Planning on some underwater lights, rework the props, and some clean up.

 

[amajamar]

Bruce sea 993,

I've had good success with the Pettit barnacle barrier paint on the props and running gear. We're in the northeast, so your mileage may vary. I was also told that the rustoleum cold galvanized spray is just as effective. It costs a third the cost of the Pettit. I may try it this season.

 

[Bruce SEA 993]

I had a real head scratcher with the prep instructions for the Barnicle Barrier paint from Pettit.

They give the sanding/etching spec in mils....3 mils to be exact. I have been an engineer and around technical stuff for 45 years. I do not claim to know everything, far from it, but this was a new one on me. There exists almost no correlation between sanding grit and mils...the specs are in microns. So 3 mils is about 75 microns. Then I could go to a chart an correlate Microns to Grit. Looks like 180 to 200 will give me 3 mils. Sheesh.

But then, it also depends on how exacting you are with your sanding. This being on funky curved running gear. So I think I will use 80 or so and maybe go up to 120 or 180 depending on what it looks like.

Dunno why Pettit doesn't spec grit of sandpaper or something else that would be used. I think the boat yard uses wire wheels. Maybe there is a spec in mils for them...

I am going to talk to my Rocket Scientist buddy..he is a materials and boat fanatic too.

Cheers!

PS: Thanks amajamar for the tip on Rustolium Cold Galvanizing Paint...

 

[Bruce SEA 993]

Hey amajamer, I was looking back at some of the flurry of posts...what fridge did you put in the cockpit? I have to assume it is a marine/RV unit as it has a 12V input.

Thanks!

 

[amajamar]

Hey amajamer, I was looking back at some of the flurry of posts...what fridge did you put in the cockpit? I have to assume it is a marine/RV unit as it has a 12V input.

Thanks!

Isotherm Cruise 85. Runs on both 12volts and 120volts. You may not have 12v at that location if you currently have the ice maker. I ran a wire back to the panel in the cabin, and increased the Refrigerator breaker from the 15amp to a 20amp, which is how I believe it was wired from the factory if the refrigerator option was purchased.

 

[Bruce SEA 993]

Thanks amajamer! I will look up the fridge...thanks for letting me benefit from you research. I see you upped the breaker from 15 to 20 amp. Is that in the main breaker panel? Did you have to route a pair of wires all the way around and through to the fridge location?

Thanks man, I love having this kind of forum!

Cheers!

 

[amajamar]

Thanks amajamer! I will look up the fridge...thanks for letting me benefit from you research. I see you upped the breaker from 15 to 20 amp. Is that in the main breaker panel? Did you have to route a pair of wires all the way around and through to the fridge location?

Thanks man, I love having this kind of forum!

Cheers!

That refrigerator is the largest one that will fit in that location, I believe.

You will need to cut back both vertical sides of the opening to accommodate it. The breaker is in the 12v panel in the cabin. I replaced the 15A to a 20A and added a pair of wires from the refrigerator. If I recall, I ran the wires down from the refrigerator, across the upper face of the engine compartment firewall, up through the space behind the shelf unit adjacent to starboard side of the captains chair, into a plastic conduit that goes to the panel area, Because of the run length, I believe I ran #10 wire.

 

[Bruce SEA 993]

One thing I stumbled on with the bow and stern thruster project was the color for the grey painted bits in the boat. Most of it is under the forward bed and the engine/bilge area. Anyhow, I had to cut an access port into the plywood under the bed for the wires for the bow thruster. I had some of the plywood that needed painting. I found Behr in the color "Overcast" that is really close match. I was at Home Depot and eyeballed it. Surprised myself at how close it was to whatever they used at Sea Ray. I got it in satin and am very happy with the look. But...nobody will see it...ha!

Cheers!

 

[Bruce SEA 993]

That refrigerator is the largest one that will fit in that location, I believe.

You will need to cut back both vertical sides of the opening to accommodate it. The breaker is in the 12v panel in the cabin. I replaced the 15A to a 20A and added a pair of wires from the refrigerator. If I recall, I ran the wires down from the refrigerator, across the upper face of the engine compartment firewall, up through the space behind the shelf unit adjacent to starboard side of the captains chair, into a plastic conduit that goes to the panel area, Because of the run length, I believe I ran #10 wire.

Holy Cats...thanks again amajamer for such a nicely detailed post.

I expected to cut the fiberglass from the area...when I was messing with the now defunct icemaker, I was surprised with how much extra room there was in that area. The icemaker did not take up much of the space.

I was going to put in a 110V beverage fridge but my wife and I got to talking function and an additional fridge for beverages and other stuff would be nice up in the cockpit.

Getting excited about the season. My wife has been selected as the Rear Commodore for our little yacht club so we are going to have a busy season. No more dang house flipping....!!!