Official 290 Sundancer Thread

Does anyone know what their dead draw (Batt switches off) is? Mine is .2 amps on all three batteries, that seems a little high.
 
my DOG HOUSE said:
Does anyone have a list of LED replacement bulbs? I am looking on http://www.superbrightleds.com/

Thanks.
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I bought replacement LEDs from Marine LED and the ones I bought were:

BA15S Bayonet 18 LED Navigation Bulb for Bicolor/Tricolor Lights -3W - Warm White 2x (for port/starboard navigation lights)
BA15D Bayonet 18 LED Navigation Bulb for Anchor Lights - 3W - Cool White 1x (anchor light)
Festoon 6 LED Bulb 42mm 0.9W - Cool White 3x (cabin lights)
Festoon 9 LED Bulb 42mm 1.2W - Cool White 2x (arch lights)
 
As I was going through the info and maintenance of the gen set this weekend. I thought of this post and found the (or a possible) answer. According to the Kohler manual the gen set when in standby draws approx. .24 amps at rest and they specifically recommend turning off the main switch located on generator control panel at gen itself. At least on the model 5ECD
 
Tomorrow she gets measured for Plasdeck in the cockpit and swim platform. I will post pictures when done.
 
Is there any way to monitor the fresh water level short of opening the hatch and climbing in for a look? 2007 290 DA.
 
When I operate the switch that says fan on the dashboard I hear a relay but nothing else seems to happen. Is there a powered fan somewhere that should be operating? What is this switch for?
 
Looking at an '06 290 to purchase. It has a blue hull, and there were quite a few scratches and oxidation. It does not appear that the hull has been well maintained. What is the likelihood I would be able to get the hull looking decent with compound and polish? I know its a tough question without pics, but maybe someone with a similar experience could comment. Also, is there typically an inch or so of standing water in the bilge?

Thanks
 
highlife34 said:
Looking at an '06 290 to purchase. It has a blue hull, and there were quite a few scratches and oxidation. It does not appear that the hull has been well maintained. What is the likelihood I would be able to get the hull looking decent with compound and polish? I know its a tough question without pics, but maybe someone with a similar experience could comment. Also, is there typically an inch or so of standing water in the bilge?

Thanks
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In my opinion the ability to remove oxidation, scratches and even damage to gelcoat rests on two variables. Maybe three. The products used, the operator and maybe the quality/thickness of the gelcoat to begin with. Third, being pretty good for Sea Rays. I've seen people not be able to remove light oxidation because they don't use the proper products and tools and they are just no good at. I've also seen heavy oxidation returned to new.

Why not ask the seller to discount the price for the cost of a professional detailer to do it from top to bottom? If you're unsure about your ability to get it looking good I would at least have a professional look at it for his opinion. If its really bad it may cost a small fortune to include steps starting with wet sanding.

There are countless opinions on products, but the one I swear by for all different gelcoat conditions is the Presta line of compounds and polishes. Use the one that is needed depending on the condition of the surface. No more or less aggressive than needed. And a high speed rotary polisher. Not those oribital things or even the Porter cable.

Good luck. Post pics.
 
The colored hull takes "alot" of work, but the result is definitely worth it. I was very surprised at the thickness of the gel coat, dock scar :smt021.
 
my DOG HOUSE said:
The colored hull takes "alot" of work, but the result is definitely worth it. I was very surprised at the thickness of the gel coat, dock scar :smt021.
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I agree completely! The colored hulls are a lot of work, but I do think they intentionally make them a little thicker. Also agree with right tools and materials, I really prefer 3M professional products (made in USA) excellent quality. As far as paying someone to do it.... Its not just a matter of $$$ vs laziness Too aggressive and you will be repairing gel coat, not enough it will still be hazey
my pref.. get it done right.. then keep up the maint. several coats of a good wax!
Don
PS that Sapphire Blue is beautiful when its all shined up!
 
2007 searay 290 Sundancer. Can anyone explain which battery runs which devices? I have an A-B switch and then a single switch under the Port cabin seat. It seems that either motor and the cabin will work with the switch in the A or B or both position. Is it intended to be this way?
 
drralphy said:
2007 searay 290 Sundancer. Can anyone explain which battery runs which devices? I have an A-B switch and then a single switch under the Port cabin seat. It seems that either motor and the cabin will work with the switch in the A or B or both position. Is it intended to be this way?
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Yes its intentional. while runnig it should be in "both" If you stop engines and have Accessories tuned on, stereo etc. switch to either 1 or 2 then If it runs completely out (forgot about it ) you still have good starting battey .
 
Hi! We're making a final decision on a boat this weekend and we're on the bubble between two 2007 280 and 290 Sundancers. I personally like the 290 more, but I think the 280 would be easier in replacement parts and upkeep over the years. The 280 has 4.3s and the 290 5.0s - both are equally as clean and well maintained.

Would appreciate any insight from the 290 owners on issues or challenges and of course the upsides as well. Thanks, look forward to getting back on the water after a two year furlough :)
 
drralphy said:
2007 searay 290 Sundancer. Can anyone explain which battery runs which devices? I have an A-B switch and then a single switch under the Port cabin seat. It seems that either motor and the cabin will work with the switch in the A or B or both position. Is it intended to be this way?
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I'm not sure how the batteries are laid out in the 2007, but in the 2001 we have 3 batteries. I believe devices like the radio, lighting, fridge, etc. run off the battery that powers the left engine (when not on shore power or generator). One Sunday a few weeks ago we forgot to turn shore power back on (debating making a checklist and laminating it) and I went back on Wednesday, 3 days later. Right engine started fine, but left engine wouldn't start. Kept trying to crank but was extremely slow. I knew right then that it was a battery issue. Ended up using the emergency start to get the left engine going and ported power from another battery to start it. Turned on shore power and the A/C charger and the next day both engines started fine and have ever since. We later found out that the previous owner had used commercial truck batteries which I heard is not uncommon. We want to change them out for heavy duty marine batteries in the future, though.
 
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