DMarcel
Member
How difficult was it to replace the gypsy?
Danny Troy
Member
A lot easier than I thought it would be. Just remove the two Allen bolts (sorry, I forgot the size), and watch that the plate under the top piece doesn't slide off the deck into the drink. Then, undo the large Torx screw. Hopefully you have the tool that came with the windless. Then it's a simple matter of lifting the gypsy out and putting the other in it's place. A very easy job. I'm enjoying the new gypsy and worth the $184.00. Or at least it will be when I have an approaching storm and need to get that anchor up quick!
DMarcel
Member
Thanks
i just received my new gypsy and I'm on my way do install it
DMarcel
Member
You were right, it was a quick fix!
Danny Troy
Member
I really wish the 496 impeller was as easy. My dockmate has the Volvo in his 4 Winns and does that job in no time. Took me all day.
joandj1
New Member
Trim tabs - I'm feeling totally lost regarding these tools. When someone references having the tabs "down", does that mean the buttons to bring the bow down? Or is just the opposite? Currently, I press both trim tabs using the "bow down" buttons. They are in the extreme "bow down" position when I take off. However, once I plane out, I gently adjust the "bow up" buttons. Am I doing this correctly? Again, maybe it's late in the day.......or maybe I just need the reassurance I'm doing it right........not sure. Either way, can someone provide the "right" answer??? LOL
Bucit
New Member
- Mar 12, 2010
- 3,144
- Boat Info
- 2005 280 Sundancer
2004 SPD-104 Achilles w/ 8hp Yamaha
- Engines
- Twin 4.3 MPI's with Alpha drives.
Yes that is correct. Tabs down will force the bow down making it easier to plane. Once on plane though this will create resistance and slow the boat down (more gas consumption) so when on plane most of the time you can bring them all the way to the up position.
Danny Troy
Member
You should know that when you put the right tab down on the panel, it's actually the left tab that goes down, and visa versa. Not important to know, unless you use your trim tab to aid in backing. My bow tends to move starboard while backing into my slip, so I use full right down trim (which is left down on the instrument panel) to counteract this.
JimFromMD
Well-Known Member
- Aug 9, 2010
- 1,777
- Boat Info
- 2005 300DA, Garmin 740s w/Vision Charts and GMR18HD RADAR
- Engines
- 5.0MPI w/BIIs, Kohler 5E Generator.
Never heard of this approach but cool idea! Learned something new today.
Danny Troy
Member
Of course, if I had twins I wouldn't need to use this technique!
John_Gault
Member
You're spot on for acceleration purpose; however, you can also use trim tabs to balance your boat while underway. My 290 seating (especially below) is biased to port, so when underway with a crowd I tend to use my port tab down (Stbd button) to maintain level and track.
Barry Rider
New Member
we have a 2005 280 sundancer that has water leaking in the port side v birth. Anyone have a similar problem and solution?
DMarcel
Member
I had a similar problem on the starboard side. It drove me crazy
it turned out to be the port hole latch was too loose
a turn of the screw fixed my problem
Tonka Boater
Well-Known Member
I also had a similar problem on my starboard side and it was the electrical outlet under the helm that was letting water in. Water would run along the outside of the windshield and drip under the little recess under the window sill just above the throttle and into the cockpit then stream down along the outlet. I tightened the casing on the outlet and it fixed my issue.
Check the seal on the sliding window under the port-side lounger to make sure it's closed tight. My kids would often leave it open and we had water get in a few times when I washed the boat. We always had it covered so we never had rain come in that window but the hose got it wet a few times.
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http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/65678-Rebedding-rails-and-cleats
I had had the exact same problem. Tried all the "easy fixes" but in the end it was the deck hull joint that had to be resealed. Check out this thread where I made some posts about it and there are some pics at the end. If you wind up determine this is the cause, PM me if you have any questions.
I had had the exact same problem. Tried all the "easy fixes" but in the end it was the deck hull joint that had to be resealed. Check out this thread where I made some posts about it and there are some pics at the end. If you wind up determine this is the cause, PM me if you have any questions.
Danny Troy
Member
Minor problem here..... One of the two bow hatch screws stripped, so only one side tightens to hold the hatch open. It looks like it is riveted on, so it will have to be drilled out. Has anyone done a repair on this part? Are parts available for the hatch, which is made by Taylor, or must I buy the whole unit?
Update: I should have done a Google search first. Looks like parts are available, but they are pricey: http://www.go2marine.com/category/12263/spare-boat-hatch-parts.html
I'll remove it and see if it can be fixed.
Update: I should have done a Google search first. Looks like parts are available, but they are pricey: http://www.go2marine.com/category/12263/spare-boat-hatch-parts.html
I'll remove it and see if it can be fixed.
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Been there-done that. Read my thread here from post # 7 onward.
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/27938-Taylor-20x20-Hatch-Maintenance
Danny Troy
Member
Very good. I didn't know the collars were available separately. I love that "$25.00" handling fee. I guess they use the "everything for boats is three times as expensive" rule. I jury rigged it today by drilling a hole in the plastic arm and using a nail as a stopper. My wife complains she has trouble loosening the screw because I screw it in too tight. Now, she can't complain. I actually did the same to the working side also, so she won't have to unscrew that side either. I'll use it this way for a while and see how it works out. Total cost for two nails: about 10 cents!
joandj1
New Member
Opened up engine hatch and was checking fluids. The Admiral asked, "Is that supposed to look like that?" I knew I was in trouble. :smt089 She pointed out that one of the gas cylinder arms (Starboard side) appeared to be bent as compared to the other arm (Port side), which was straight. It looked bent to me too, but it was such a "perfect" bend with no cracks in the metal or seams or anything. The Parts Manual show both arms as straight, but I also know that it isn't always 100% accurate / complete. Another boater looked at it and it appeared to him as it was made this way. So, I pose the question to the masses. Are both gas cylinder arms supposed to be straight? Or is one supposed to appear bent? Before answering, if feasible, take a look at your hatch. BTW, even if it is bent, it is still staying open without any problem. I just don't want to bend the other one too and have that massive hatch come down on me while checking fluids. I will try to get pics this evening.
Danny Troy
Member
They are supposed to be straight. I replaced mine last year, as one was bent also, due to failing. Let me know if you need the part number, as it can be hard to find. I suggest you get a higher number if you want it easier to open. It's more effort to close it, but easier to open with a higher pound number.
Update: here is the part you need. Replace both sides, while you are at it. You want both to do equal work, and both should wear evenly.
Attwood Sl34-120-5 Ni-Slide 8X18 E-20" C-12" S-8" P-120
Update: here is the part you need. Replace both sides, while you are at it. You want both to do equal work, and both should wear evenly.
Attwood Sl34-120-5 Ni-Slide 8X18 E-20" C-12" S-8" P-120
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