Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Very dumb question but was out lastnight in our 2004 280 and my navigation lights quit working. Anchor worked. Where is the fuse panel for this so I can check that?
 
Already planning my winter repairs. I want to pull all the cockpit seating and have recovered. I know there must be some kind of trick (or long process) in removing the port side seating. Can anyone give me some steps in how to prepare to do this? Hopefully someone has photos of the process. I would rather do the removal and re-install of the seats myself. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks...
 
testee said:
Very dumb question but was out lastnight in our 2004 280 and my navigation lights quit working. Anchor worked. Where is the fuse panel for this so I can check that?
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Are you sure that you didn't hit the anchor light button? That only lights the white navigation light, not the port/starboard lights.
 
eweise said:
Already planning my winter repairs. I want to pull all the cockpit seating and have recovered. I know there must be some kind of trick (or long process) in removing the port side seating. Can anyone give me some steps in how to prepare to do this? Hopefully someone has photos of the process. I would rather do the removal and re-install of the seats myself. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks...
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Ask and you shall receive. See post #8 in this thread. Good luck! http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/6516-water-under-aft-berth-on-280DA
 
jason78 said:
Ask and you shall receive. See post #8 in this thread. Good luck! http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/6516-water-under-aft-berth-on-280DA
Click to expand...

Great! (I think) Looks like a lot of work but I guess I will also be able to head off potential leaks also. I normally do not put much water in those areas. I wipe them down as I try to keep lots of water away from most seam areas. Just for safety measures. Don't want to cause a leak just to have to chase it down. I guess I will start eyeing the mid-cabin interior trim and be prepared. Thanks for pointing me to the right place..
 
Has anyone tried the Exide Vortex AGM sprial wound Deep Cycle marine batteries? Academy Sports have them on sale for $99.00 . Sounds cheap for an AGM type.
 
Kurt said:
If it is a generic Academy brand then my guess it is j u n k
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I don't have the exide AGMs but I did try generic AGMs and am having good luck. Mine were from AdvanceAuto... AutoCraft group 31 tractor AGM batteries. Good warranty and no issues so far after 3 seasons. Knock on wood.
 
Does anyone know the part number of the gypsy for my windlass? It's starting to slip on the chain, so I think it's time to replace. The windlass is a Lewmar Marlin and the number on it is 004860. Searching for Lewmar Marlin didn't turn up much.
 
Danny Troy said:
Does anyone know the part number of the gypsy for my windlass? It's starting to slip on the chain, so I think it's time to replace. The windlass is a Lewmar Marlin and the number on it is 004860. Searching for Lewmar Marlin didn't turn up much.
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Do you mean the chain/rode is slipping on the gypsy or the gypsy is spinning?
 
The chain/rode is slipping, especially the chain portion. I think the teeth are getting worn and it's time for a replacement. The gypsy is likely the original part, so I guess it's due for replacement.
 
Your problem is most likely the tensioning finger that rides against the gypsy. There is a spring that wears out over time. Try putting pressure on the finger against the chain while pulling up. if it goes up then the tension spring needs to be replaced.
 
I replaced the spring last year, and the new spring didn't help much. I usually hold the side of my foot (with shoes on!) against the finger as the transition from rope to chain approaches. I've been doing it that way since last year and it's worked for me, but lately it started slipping even with that pressure on the finger.
 
Danny it sounds like the taper splice between the chain and the rope has worn if the only spot it slips is at the transition.

Cut the rope at the splice, and seal, or whip, the end. Now is a good time to toss the rope in the clothes washer with some soap and fabric softener. Let this air dry. Now splice the old bitter end to the chain. Splice instructions can be found at New England Ropes.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Danny Troy said:
The chain/rode is slipping, especially the chain portion. I think the teeth are getting worn and it's time for a replacement. The gypsy is likely the original part, so I guess it's due for replacement.
Click to expand...

"Imtra Marine Products" is where I've replaced multiple parts on mine.
 
Henry Boyd said:
Danny it sounds like the taper splice between the chain and the rope has worn if the only spot it slips is at the transition.
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No, it started out that way last year, and now the chain is slipping too. I'm pretty sure it's the gypsy. I don't think the chain would wear. Likely the gypsy, and I've seen some at about $320.00. I'd bet that's the one I need. I investigate it further this week and see if IMTRA can steer me in the right direction. If it's $320.00 at Defender, it will be even more from IMTRA. They charged me $27.00 for the spring, that didn't even help.
 
I didn't even know it has a clutch. I guess I need to keep a close eye to see where it's slipping. Maybe rig up a video camera as it's working. How bad is it to replace the clutch?
 
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