Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Seevee said:
Fresh water tank problem.

We've had difficulty filling the fresh water tank, the vent is clean. Took the supply line off and found a check valve in there, removed it and it worked great and could fill in in a few minutes. Is that check valve suppose to be there and what does it do?

The fill line is high enough so I'd be surprised if it could syphon out.
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I've got the same problem. If memory serves I think there is a vent tube to let air escape the tank as water enters. I think mine is plugged because I got an adaptor at the end of last season that I attached about two feet of clear tubing to. The clear has a smaller diameter and shoving the tube all the way down the fill seemed to do the trick.

Henry


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LiL Nauti said:
Hey all,

Went to West Marine today and picked up that 303 cleaner/protectant for vinyl. I almost bought the spray for the cockpit cover but then I read on a thread here now that says that 303's sprayed on your seat or canvas might put a purple haze on your seats, anybody have any experience with the 303 product from West Marine? If the vinyl cleaner/protectant works I'll use it. But if the 303 for canvas isn't any good I won't bother with it... Yes, I know 303 has separate cleaners/protectants for different materials and to use separately...

Thanks,

Kevin
Click to expand...

No problem here with 303.
 
Henry Boyd said:
I've got the same problem. If memory serves I think there is a vent tube to let air escape the tank as water enters. I think mine is plugged because I got an adaptor at the end of last season that I attached about two feet of clear tubing to. The clear has a smaller diameter and shoving the tube all the way down the fill seemed to do the trick.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Click to expand...

I got a chance to look at the 280 Supplement to the user manual. The water system diagram on page 17 shows a separate vent tube from the tank to the water fill fitting on the hull. If that plugs, the tank will get air bound.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
eweise said:
View attachment 44032
Here is a photo
It is the small white bracket/clip. The sensor slides in it.
Click to expand...


05 280 Sundancer rusted A/C pan...

Hey Eddie, checked on the rusted pan, didn't look that bad at all. Thought I'd see a rusted out pan ,and rust on the carpet too from all the condensation, under that seat. Didn't see that so I poured water into the pan to see what happened next. The water filled up in the pan but didn't go in the drain pipe and make its way to the pump under the step/garbage can area. I think the pipe is clogged somehow so the next step is to clear that line somehow before I replace the pan. I think that line is filled with rust and debris... We'll see.

Kevin
 
LiL Nauti said:
05 280 Sundancer rusted A/C pan...

Hey Eddie, checked on the rusted pan, didn't look that bad at all. Thought I'd see a rusted out pan ,and rust on the carpet too from all the condensation, under that seat. Didn't see that so I poured water into the pan to see what happened next. The water filled up in the pan but didn't go in the drain pipe and make its way to the pump under the step/garbage can area. I think the pipe is clogged somehow so the next step is to clear that line somehow before I replace the pan. I think that line is filled with rust and debris... We'll see.

Kevin
Click to expand...
Looks like it may be a simple fix since the pan is not leaking.
 
Henry Boyd said:
I got a chance to look at the 280 Supplement to the user manual. The water system diagram on page 17 shows a separate vent tube from the tank to the water fill fitting on the hull. If that plugs, the tank will get air bound.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Click to expand...

Regarding the water tank problem, I called Searay support (they are great). The tech guy said that he was unaware of a check valve in the supply line and had no explanation for why it's there. The tank does not pressurize when the pump is on, only the lines downstream of the pump.

We pulled the check valve out (and previously check the lines for being clear) and it's working find, so will dump the valve.

Also, FWIW, I've been doing a lot of maintenance stuff on this boat, and learned a bunch and I'd be glad to post with some pictures (but I can't figure out how to download pictures.

I've change the impeller in the outdrive, the impeller and sleeve in the generator, the tilt pump mechanism, the trim actuator and getting up to speed on this stuff.

Overall, it's really a pretty simple and cheap boat (compared to bigger stuff). I'm a shade tree boat mechanic (actually an aircraft mechanic). So, picking up on this stuff is not hard.

And, we've run this boat quite a bit now, and getting to know the numbers, etc.

Still shopping for a good depth recorded, probably add a fuel quantity sensor or fuel flow, and a new entertainment system..... so will have more experience.

So far, this boat is running cheaper than my old 270 Sundance and more capable, and a heck of a lot cheaper than my 31PC Formula with those stinkin expensive Volvo engines. Small enough to be small, yet big enough for overbites with the air and creature comforts.
 
Hey Seevee, were you cruising around IC Sharks/ Getaways last Sunday?
 
Bucit said:
Hey Seevee, were you cruising around IC Sharks/ Getaways last Sunday?
Click to expand...

Must be nice... My boat will be ready for Northern waters April 19.... Got some mechanical issues resolved, waxed top to bottom, new carpet, and new canvas... She's ready to strut her stuff now! Rock on LiL Nauti!
 
Seevee said:
Electrical Question: 2003 Vintage
What happens if a switch goes bad in the "cluster pane;" with all the light switches, etc.? Can one replace the switch only or do you need the whole panel?

Also, is there a good source for light bulbs? A search of a few of them, using the manual replacement guide, shows nothing.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I am happy to report that I was able to get a new "old stock" woodgrain port cluster panel (or whatever it's called) and it cured the intermittent issues with all the switches on that panel. I especially missed having reliable trim tab and bilge blower switches. The new panel works now 100%. Hopefully it will remain that way. I was able to get it for $312.00 with shipping, and it was the last one they had in stock. I understand they are now made in black only, which would look pretty bad on the instrument panel. If it didn't work of course the next piece to replace is the EIM, which would cost quite a lot more than the switch panel.
 
Bucit said:
Hey Seevee, were you cruising around IC Sharks/ Getaways last Sunday?
Click to expand...

Bucit,

Probably... but just around Madeira Beach. Is the Sharks/Getaways an event or something? If so, I missed that.

Been on the boat about 3 or 4 times a week for the past month or so. I'm getting to know it, but still can't dock worth a sh**.
 
Danny Troy said:
I am happy to report that I was able to get a new "old stock" woodgrain port cluster panel (or whatever it's called) and it cured the intermittent issues with all the switches on that panel. I especially missed having reliable trim tab and bilge blower switches. The new panel works now 100%. Hopefully it will remain that way. I was able to get it for $312.00 with shipping, and it was the last one they had in stock. I understand they are now made in black only, which would look pretty bad on the instrument panel. If it didn't work of course the next piece to replace is the EIM, which would cost quite a lot more than the switch panel.
Click to expand...
I received a black one. I contacted my Sea Ray dealer and they sent me instructions on how to remove the woodgrain panel from my existing one and swap it to the new one. Haven't done it yet...but looks simple enough. Just remove some screws from the back and pry it off basically.

Oh, and no...if one goes bad the whole panel needs replaced. Great design there...

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Well. I was messing about the boat after being on my lift all winter. Glanced over the (far) starboard side and what!? My bilge blower vent cover was gone. Great! I'd heard stories about others losing these and how hard or expensive they are to replace.

I found a guy on Ebay selling repos for $200.00 each. Ouch.

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=162022201673&alt=web

Small consolation, this one I lost had a few scratches on it that always bugged me!

Anyone find a cheaper alternative?
 
I have one that is starting to loosen. After removing, what product would you use to reattach?
 
I'm considering putting a Rosskelley Ohlson davit system (25 lbs.) on a 280 sundancer with 496 Mag to hold an 85 lb. 9' aluminum hull inflatable (#85 lb) and a 9.9hp 4-stroke (85 lb). Total weight 195 lbs. on the platform. Will I have any problem getting/staying on plane? Usually they'll just be 2 persons on board. Any help you could offer would be appreciated.
 
Craig77 said:
I'm considering putting a Rosskelley Ohlson davit system (25 lbs.) on a 280 sundancer with 496 Mag to hold an 85 lb. 9' aluminum hull inflatable (#85 lb) and a 9.9hp 4-stroke (85 lb). Total weight 195 lbs. on the platform. Will I have any problem getting/staying on plane? Usually they'll just be 2 persons on board. Any help you could offer would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

I think it will be a struggle. You might be ok if you only have 2 people onboard but it will take awhile to get on plane. I had a 2008 280DA with the single 496 -- although it's a great package for the boat I don't think it's an ideal setup for a tender on the platform.
 
Tonka Boater said:
I think it will be a struggle. You might be ok if you only have 2 people onboard but it will take awhile to get on plane. I had a 2008 280DA with the single 496 -- although it's a great package for the boat I don't think it's an ideal setup for a tender on the platform.
Click to expand...


Craig77,

Agree, it will be a challenge. However, for reference we had 8 (4 adults and 4 kids) full fuel and another few hundred in supplies and got up on a plain fairly easy. T4.3, B1.

I'd bet that working the trim tabs with only two on board, it would not be hard.

However, please post a pix after you get this done. Pretty small boat for a tender.
 
Seevee said:
Craig77,

Agree, it will be a challenge. However, for reference we had 8 (4 adults and 4 kids) full fuel and another few hundred in supplies and got up on a plain fairly easy. T4.3, B1.

I'd bet that working the trim tabs with only two on board, it would not be hard.

However, please post a pix after you get this done. Pretty small boat for a tender.
Click to expand...

Agree about the tender size too. You're beam is 9'5" but that's at the widest part of the boat -- your platform is considerably more narrow. I don't think the beam on a 9' tender would fit on the 280's platform so make sure the swim platform is deep enough for your tender. I would look at a tender that is 8' or less.... something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Saturn-Inches-Inflatable-Dinghy-Tender/dp/B007MAG4CO
 
Does anyone know if you can replace the shift cable bellows without removing the shift cable? It doesn't appear that the bellows will slide over the large end of the cable. This is for bravo 3.
 
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