Official 280 Sundancer Thread

LiL Nauti said:
The wire was hanging over the side of the A/C touching the side of the metal drip pan, outside of it that is. Where should it be?
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image.jpg
Here is a photo
It is the small white bracket/clip. The sensor slides in it.
 
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Thanks Eddie, it looked like the wire was just thrown over the side, didn't see the plastic clip. The pan didn't look OVERLY rusted, going to check the sump pump next. Just took the shrink wrap off n put the cockpit cover on... Going to test it all out to see exactly where the leak is coming from. Found the ER compartment trough between the engines filled with what looked like winterization anti freeze and a tad bit oily... If the boat was shrink wrapped, how did water get in there, condensation?
 
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Well we are in the Sea Ray 280 Sundancer family now. We just purchased a 2002 280 Sundancer DA and spent our first night on it last night. I am sure I will have many questions and already have learned some cool tricks and fixes reading through this thread. One question I do have is my port engine throttle drive cable is very hard to shift and I believe the adjustment is a little off as the drive grinded for a quick second when trying to engage. I know both side cable were replaced about 4 months ago and didnt know if I could make a quick adjustment to align it up. The starboard side is smooth and works perfect. As we all know pulling into a slip with 2 engines is much easier than using just one of them. Thx for the help in advance.
 
rvb; One question I do have is my port engine throttle drive cable is very hard to shift and I believe the adjustment is a little off as the drive grinded for a quick second when trying to engage. I know both side cable were replaced about 4 months ago and didnt know if I could make a quick adjustment to align it up. The starboard side is smooth and works perfect. As we all know pulling into a slip with 2 engines is much easier than using just one of them. Thx for the help in advance.[/QUOTE said:
Welcome to CSR. I never had to mess with the throttle cable, but I did replace the steering cable. I did notice there is a sharp bend in the throttle cable and that may possibly cause the friction. Also, being a saltwater boat, just like my steering cable, the salt air can get in these cables and eventually may necessitate a replacement. If you need to get to the back of the assembly, the fiberglass mount is held on by just a few screws, and a lot of silicone. If you remove that panel, don't do what I did. Take a sharp razor and cut a slit in the silicone, so when you re-assemble it fits like a glove. I used a dull blade and made a mess of it! You may want to disconnect from the engine and work the cable to see if it reduces the friction, and lube all parts at the engine. Have fun with the new boat. You will love the 280, especially in Florida. My boat was originally from Jacksonville.
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Question about the port switchpanel (the one with the trim tab rockers). I just bought a replacement for my intermittent switchpanel, and will install it as soon as I get the shrinkwrap off the boat. If this doesn't fix the problem I may go with standard switches, as in the new Sea Rays. Has anyone done this mod? I spent about $320.00 on the new part, and was lucky to get it, since the woodgrain version was discontinued. The good thing is I'll probably be able to sell it on eBay for what I paid if it doesn't fix the problem, since they are rare. I don't really want to start replacing other expensive parts (EIM) and will likely bite the bullet and go with separate switches. I'll be taking off that panel I mentioned in the last post, for sure, if I have to route the new wiring.
 
I haven't done it but have researched the idea as backup. I think to add individual switches would require removal of the EIM and replacement with a circuit breaker panel. The switchpad communicates with EIM via a multiplexor built into the EIM box. The switches on the pad don't only send on/off data but also an ID for the switch. That's why there are so few wires connecting the switchpad to the EIM. The mux reads the signal from the switchpad, picks up the ID and routes the on/off command to the right relay.

Henry

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I'm wondering if the EIM can stay in place, after adding the manual switches. Isn't it needed for the aft switchpanel also? I can add a fusebox and tap into 12v off the EIM, or any other spot that can take the current. The absolutely needed switches would be for the blower, bilge and trimtabs. I believe the ignition has it's own wires and I think it might be independent of the EIM. That is the one switch that always worked. On the replacement switchpad there is only one connector, with 4 pins. So those 4 pins controls all functions. Maybe they kept the ignition separate, making it more foolproof. The replacement panel did not come with the ignition switch and all three are open. I have a single, so I'll put the one switch in, along with the two blanks. Hopefully it will work and I won't have to think about the manual switches, but I'm thinking ahead. Luckily, I have a lot of free time, being very semi-retired, so it can be a nice summer project that will be done while in water.
 
After a great weekend working on the boat and using it for 3 days, I have come to the conclusion that its a good vessel. I installed a new remote cable and made the correct adjustments and works perfectly now. When my port engine controls were impossible to dock cause of the force that I needed to apply made it very difficult with just the 2 of us and wind. One thing I did figure out is if you dont have the linkage set exactly to 6in from center of brass to center of monting hole it will cause you all kinds of issues and make it feel like your controller is grinding. The 2 engines 4.3L are brand new and have about 20 hours on them. One question I have is when I get up to about 3000 rpms a constant alarm goes off and drove me nuts. All of my levels are perfect, temperature, and oil pressure is fine. I did read online that if my voltage is low or a battery is no good this will sound and put the engine into guardian mode. I know the impellers are new and it runs at 170 degrees both of them. I didnt have my volt meter to check all the voltage but my charger was on all weekend charging the batteries. Let me know if low voltage would cause this continuous alarm. FYI, I don't have any other beep alarms and etc and the engines were checked for codes 2 weeks ago and nothing was presented on a professional readout computer. Thx for the help in advance.
 
SAshton said:
Water pressure sensors? No smart craft on your 02 to check but that's my guess.
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Yes, I was working in the ER and somehow pushed down on the seacock, closing it almost completely. While underway the alarm went off after getting up on plane. I was lucky I didn't do damage overheating the engine, and caught it in time. I'm now very careful not to accidentally close that seacock when working in the ER. That said, I would imagine that wouldn't be rvb's problem, as he likely doesn't have seacocks on the twin 4.3 Alpha drives, unless thru hull intakes were added, as was on mine. I would try to take some temperatures while the alarm is sounding, if you can do it safely.
 
rvb said:
Woulsnt that create beeps instead of a continuous alarm. Its only at 3000 rpm or more. I did read it could be voltage.
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That's exactly what mine did, and at over 3000 rpm. I'm pretty sure it was a continuous alarm, and loud! I thought it was an overheating alarm, but I guess it could have been a water pressure sensor (that I didn't know I had) tripping the alarm.
 
How did you resolve it? The service manual says low voltage or fluid levels which it is not they are perfect and temp is right on. If it a water sensor i will change it but I would just like to know before i buy everything under the sun.
 
On mine it was a simple matter of opening the seacock all the way, and that fixed the water flow issue. If it is the water pressure sensor on yours, you need to find which engine it is and find were the water flow is either being blocked, due to some sort of blockage in the lower unit, or find out why it's not pumping water properly. Have you changed the impellers? If not, and if you don't know for sure when they were last changed, I would change both of them. With new impellers, you will have peace of mind for a few years. Salt water is harsher than fresh, but I even change mine every 2 or 3 years on the lake.
 
Danny Troy said:
Yes, I was working in the ER and somehow pushed down on the seacock, closing it almost completely. While underway the alarm went off after getting up on plane. I was lucky I didn't do damage overheating the engine, and caught it in time. I'm now very careful not to accidentally close that seacock when working in the ER. That said, I would imagine that wouldn't be rvb's problem, as he likely doesn't have seacocks on the twin 4.3 Alpha drives, unless thru hull intakes were added, as was on mine. I would try to take some temperatures while the alarm is sounding, if you can do it safely.
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I will look into it and measure temp but the manual stated it could be low voltage or my fluid levels but I checked them all and are perfect. The needle never moved to show a rise in temp on either motor.
 
Water pressure is a beep every 2 minutes. Never had continuous beep but hopefully it's nothing major for you. Those beeps are annoying.


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rvb said:
I will look into it and measure temp but the manual stated it could be low voltage or my fluid levels but I checked them all and are perfect. The needle never moved to show a rise in temp on either motor.
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I just re-read your original post and see you have new impellers. Still, the fact that it's happening when you hit a certain RPM still might be an indicator of an impeller malfunctioning. I've heard of faulty impellers spinning on the shaft. You have a real mystery here. Please let us know if you figure it out.
 
I have and excellent black cockpit cover that I'd like to sell. New they are around $850. Mine is in excellent shape, no snaps missing, no rips, and the velcro works fine. Asking $450 obo. PM me.
 
Hey all,

Went to West Marine today and picked up that 303 cleaner/protectant for vinyl. I almost bought the spray for the cockpit cover but then I read on a thread here now that says that 303's sprayed on your seat or canvas might put a purple haze on your seats, anybody have any experience with the 303 product from West Marine? If the vinyl cleaner/protectant works I'll use it. But if the 303 for canvas isn't any good I won't bother with it... Yes, I know 303 has separate cleaners/protectants for different materials and to use separately...

Thanks,

Kevin
 
Fresh water tank problem.

We've had difficulty filling the fresh water tank, the vent is clean. Took the supply line off and found a check valve in there, removed it and it worked great and could fill in in a few minutes. Is that check valve suppose to be there and what does it do?

The fill line is high enough so I'd be surprised if it could syphon out.
 
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