Official 215 Express Thread

Newly owner of 2000 215 EC, thank you for this thread.
I went through every single post on this thread, found some of the posts mentioned about water leaking into the pocket where the trash can placed, I got a similar problem, and have some questions.

I found out that the water is leaking into that pocket from a very small hole (couldn't find the hole, but I am seeing stain trail) approximately about 3 inches from the center line to the starboard.

I inspected everywhere and seems like the cockpit and cabin areas supposed to completely sealed from each other. So the water must be leaking from the wall next to fresh water tank (or could be from below that floor). I removed the water tank, and could find any obvious crack or hole on that side either.

The floor below where the water tank is sitting on, appears to be a pocket (where the floor laying on top of v-shape) and I can not have access to it, could be water sitting in there if my boat is not elevate enough? I dried off all the water I can see from the top, my plan is lower the bow, and if the water will leaking excessively, that must be from the bottom of water tank floor.

Anyway, my plan is find some spray glue product to spray inside the pocket (under the trash can), and on the back wall (next to water tank).
Anyone can recommend anything that I can find locally? I think of Rust-Oleum sealant but don't know any better product for marine.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-11-oz-LeakSeal-Clear-Spray-265495/203165633
Sorry for my English.
 
if your theory is correct if you raise the bow the water that has collected in the trash can compartment will eventually drain out and seep back into the area where the water tank and fuel tank are located and eventually back to the bilge.....or you can lower the bow to see if any trapped water under the fuel tank or under the fresh water tank seeps into the trash can compartment....either method should work....i think i would conduct this test first and if the water does drain back out (or in depending on test method used) of the compartment i would think about some sort of sealeant for the compartment....if the water does not drain out or in there is no need to apply sealant and likely the water is coming from wash water or possibly rain that is forced passed the cabin door.....

cliff
 
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Thank you for your quick responds Cliff!
I cleaned and dried the trash compartment as well as the area where the water tank sitting on this morning before I go to work. I then lower the bow, and sure enough water that trap under the floor of water tank seep back into the trash compartment.
Now, I will spray the rubber sealant from inside the trash compartment, unfortunately I can not gain access to the other side unless I have to saw off the floor that water tank sitting on, which will be a lot of works.
Even the sealant will stop water to leak into the trash compartment, but on the other side, water that trap will soaking that wall at all time. I can't tell which material for that wall, but if it's wood eventually it will rotting.
I am thinking either I have to saw off the floor (where the water tank sitting on) to seal on that side, or drill a 2 inches hole where I can stick the hand siphon and manually siphon water out one for a while.
Anyone can confirm what's the material for the divider between cockpit and cabin?
Thanks!
Tim
 
you should be able to seal only the one side of the bulkhead wall in the trash can compartment....that should be sufficient....you may could even use something like spray undercoating made for cars....it can be found at just about all auto parts stores and even Walmart....eventually all of the water that is trapped under the fresh water tank will work its way back to the fuel tank compartment and then into the bilge as long as the rear of the boat is lower than the bow.....there are two drain holes in the bulkhead wall between the engine compartment and the fuel tank compartment.....any water that makes it way into the fresh water tank area and the fuel tank area will drain under the fuel tank and into the bilge through these two drain holes.....if you keep the water removed form the bilge at all times there will be no water that can move forward to the trash can compartment bulkhead wall and possibly rot the wall....just insure the bow of the boat is raised for a period of time and let the trapped water find its way back to the bilge and then keep the bilge dry at all times and this should solve the problem....

cliff
 
Hello all,
To anyone else who owns or has owned a 215, do/did you have the anchor holder bracket thing inside the front anchor locker? What type and size of anchor is it meant to hold?
Thanks,
Matt
 
mbrown98 said:
Hello all,
To anyone else who owns or has owned a 215, do/did you have the anchor holder bracket thing inside the front anchor locker? What type and size of anchor is it meant to hold?
Thanks,
Matt
Click to expand...


Matt,
my anchor locker has the bracket but i never use it....i don't know what size or type is supposed to fit the bracket...i just use a generic 8 lb. fluke style anchor i bought at West Marine....it works fine on the muddy bottoms of our inland lakes.....i just lay the rode and anchor in the locker as i retrieve the anchor.....

cliff
 
That's the same thing I'm doing. I've got a 13# with chain and sometimes it'll drag through a couple dozen feet of sand before it grabs if the wind is up at Winnipesaukee. It grabs mud and boulders and sunken trees really well, though. Thought I wasn't going to get it back a couple of times. I usually through another off the stern as well to keep from swinging around.
The anchor holder up front looks like its for such a small anchor I don't even think it would hold by itself.
 
Hi! I'm new to the club and have a question. I own a 1996 Sea Ray Express Cruiser 215. This model year did not have portlight windows installed in it from the factory and I was thinking about installing them on my own. If there is anyone that has an Express Cruiser with the windows installed, Can you possibly tell me the size is of these windows and if they are able to open and close and have a screen in them or if they are just a window without the option of opening and closing? I would very much appreciate your help! Happy boating!
 
Robert Santiago said:
Hi! I'm new to the club and have a question. I own a 1996 Sea Ray Express Cruiser 215. This model year did not have portlight windows installed in it from the factory and I was thinking about installing them on my own. If there is anyone that has an Express Cruiser with the windows installed, Can you possibly tell me the size is of these windows and if they are able to open and close and have a screen in them or if they are just a window without the option of opening and closing? I would very much appreciate your help! Happy boating!
Click to expand...

don't know the sizes but here are the Sea Ray part numbers for the portlights on my 1998 215EC if that helps....my lights do no open and close, they are fixed....

0115253 Portlight Lens
0111658 Trim Ring Almond (inner)
0222067 Trim Ring Almond (outer)

cliff
 
I'm not sure Sea Ray still stocks these parts. If not, you can order the lens and outer ring here. http://www.ebay.com/itm/121123299895?item=121123299895&viewitem=&vxp=mtr . I just bought a set from them, nice people to work with, the woman's name is Denise. The inner ring is apparently more difficult to get. Denise said they may be able to find them, but usually people are replacing parts for existing windows, and the inner ring is usually fine to be re-used because it has not been exposed to the weather.

Personally, I think these windows are a waste of time. They are small, do not open, and are so darkly tinted that they add little light to the cabin. And the lens has a tendency to crack over time, which is why I'm replacing mine. Speaking of that, excuse the minor rant, but to my mind this is just another example of Sea Ray saving a buck by using cheap inferior parts on accessories and ancillary items.

If you really want to add windows, you don't necessarily need to use the exact window that Sea Ray put on the 215s/225s, since you are not limited to matching an existing hole in the hull. Rather, you might consider looking through the Sea Ray parts lists from other boats, Flounder Pounder, or Great Lakes Skipper, and see if you can find ones that are made of higher quality materials (i.e., rings made out of stainless steel) and maybe ones that can be opened.

One other thing, you might want to make sure that your hull can handle having holes like this cut into it, as a structural issue. I don't know if Sea Ray strengthened the hull around these holes so they wouldn't compromise hull strength (like car makers add structure to the frame on convertibles). It's probably not an issue, but maybe worth checking it with Sea Ray.
 
Thanks for the info guys that's a huge help! I'll look into those part#'s asap!

One other thing, I was looking into portlight windows that open and close with screens (greatlakesskipper.com) but was told that may be risky due to leaks because it's below the rubrails. Any thoughts/opinions?

Robert
 
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I never noticed this until today when I Googled 225 Weekender and I mistakenly typed 235. There is a 2015 235 Weekender that looks very similar to the discontinued 225 Weekender, and it has some upgraded parts including larger cleats and stainless-framed port holes. There is nothing about this model on the web site, so I assume it is a foreign model, but I wonder if the port holes are the same size and, if so, whether they can be obtained.
 
If it's done properly, I wouldn't have any concerns about an opening portlight just below the rubrail. Check Bomar/Pompanette's website and see what would fit your opening size. Slightly larger wouldn't be a problem, smaller would take more work.
 
I am new here and have just registered. Looking at all the information on this forum I can tell this will be fun and informative! I figured I'd start out trying to navigate and get used to this forum by seeing if there are any answers out there on a question I have. I am a 215 EC owner (1998). My boat has never had the snap in/out carpet but does have the snaps in place from a time it was equipped prior to my purchase. I am now looking to replace it. I was wondering if there were any thoughts on doing this. Has anyone had experience with certain brands or types? I have looked at some recently that have a backing that would not require me to install snaps on the new flooring (advertised by dealer to stay in place) There are not many places that have the template available. Those that are available come with semi-hefty price tags. Also any thoughts on the teak "look" flooring (really like the style). I appreciate any responses and look forward to being a member here.
 
Can I add a pump out head to my 215 EC?
Can I add a windlass anchor to this boat?
Can I add a shore power and/or mini fridge to this boat?
If anyone has info about any of these please advise how to do or where to get info. Thank you Dave.
 
A pump-out porta pottie was a factory option, at least on the 225WE, so that would be fairly easy. You just need to run the 1.5" diameter pump-out hose from the head to a deck fitting, which Sea Ray located on the starboard side just aft of the windshield. Check out the manuals for the 225WE on the Sea Ray web site for details.

A vacuflush was a factory option in Europe, but not in the US. I actually put one in my boat last year. I hired a Dometic/vacuflush authorized installer. A big expensive job, but it turned out great and it makes a huge difference in the comfort of the boat.

I've thought about 110 power and a windlass, I think they are good ideas and doable, although the windlass might be difficult because of the way the anchor locker hatch is configured.

I don't see a way to put an electric fridge in the boat, at least not without some fairly extensive modifications and stealing significant space from some place.
 
thanks lawndoctor,
that is a great help.
although, not knowing anything about the porta potty system and how it works, i am handy and do most things myself so i am trying to learn everything. If you know where i could get more info on this please let me know?
(how it pumps out, what hoses go out or go in, venting, holding tank, vacuflush, are all things i'm hearing but know nothing about)
i would also consider hiring a Dometic/vacuflush authorized installer like you did if i could find one in my area. Does the dometic fit in without any modifications, as if it was an original install?
you said it was "A big expensive job", could you tell me about how expensive?

thanks again, dave

 
petes105,

how did you make out with your carpet?
I was hoping to here what others had to say.
i too am interested in putting down a carpet but don't have a clue where to start?
any info on this would be a great help:smt100

thanks, dave
 
dasdsanti said:
petes105,

how did you make out with your carpet?
I was hoping to here what others had to say.
i too am interested in putting down a carpet but don't have a clue where to start?
any info on this would be a great help:smt100

thanks, dave[/QUOT

Dave,
Did some homework on my own and found that there are a few places offering upper grade marine carpeting that are leaps ahead of the standard and even OEM stuff. Most can cut and bind the carpet with a template you provide and some have the templates in their inventory for the 215. I just hooked up with one of them who also offers free shipping and no tax. They Seem Like They are incredible to work With and even called me direct to help me out. . . Their carpet will work even if your deck is not already equipped with snaps due to its special heavy duty backing. I'm not sure if I am able to give their info out over this forum so I'll check and get back to ya'. If not I'll I'M you and pass it on. Price wise they were comparible to everything else I looked at.

Pete,
Click to expand...
 
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