Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

my profile pics don't show

I put a pic of my boat in my profile
but it don't show up in my posts ????
It does show up when I'm in profiles
 
villain style said:
Can someone tell me the specs and sizes of our props? Bronze or Nibral? Thanks..
Click to expand...

Nibble. (nibble...I hate effing autocorrect!!!!!!!!!!! ) Nibral. The stock props are 18 x 21.5 and 18 X 21 four bladed props. I am running ACME 18X23 props and getting close to 1 mpg at cruise, 29.5 mph, 31 gph at 3450 RPM's.
 
melida said:
Good morning all.

Being a newbie 375/340 owner done the first project autopilot installation with the great help of Scott/sfergson727.

Then changed the 12 ceiling light bulbs with leds, man what a difference both lighting and battery consumption and heat. When the 12 stock bulbs were lit 10 amps was draining and when leds lit there was 1-2 amps consumption and they are cool to touch. (except the 4 swivel reading lights) Please ignore the mess over the galley countertop.



A strange thing is there are no AC lights in my boat, it is 375 the European equivalent of 340 (however my 2005 315/280 have both DC and AC cabin lights) there is only power fan and DC lights switches at galley which powers the galley ceiling and center big round lights and there isn't a breaker at AC side of the electrical panel for AC lights, also no base in the big round lights or I can't see if there is.





I also want to change the 4 swivel reading lights but seems a little tricky to disassemble and I don't want to break the glass, so what's the trick for it ?

TIA
Click to expand...

The later model 340's (375's) have no AC lights, only DC....so you are normal.

For the swivel lights, there is a slot you can use to pop off the lens. It was a slap your forehead moment for me, as the solution was so simple and obvious.
 
2006 late in the year and many 07's are equipped with 18x21.5 and 18x22. I Just went through this last year. Some also have 21 and 21.5 as Scott said. I have the 21.5 and 22 teignbridge which was oem. The oem Teignbridge prop is now made by Michigan wheel. The props are stamped with the sizes on the hubs.
 
sfergson727 said:
Nibble. (nibble...I hate effing autocorrect!!!!!!!!!!! ) Nibral. The stock props are 18 x 21.5 and 18 X 21 four bladed props. I am running ACME 18X23 props and getting close to 1 mpg at cruise, 29.5 mph, 31 gph at 3450 RPM's.
Click to expand...

Are you running 3 or 4 blades? I'm running 4 blade 18x21 and get 25 mph 30 gph at 3200 rpm and a WOT rpm of 4000. BTW, my original 3 blades and 4 blades are both brass.
 
Last edited:
lpvanam said:
Are you running 3 or 4 blades? I'm running 4 blade 18x21 and get 25 mph 30 gph at 3200 rpm and a WOT rpm of 4000. BTW, my original 3 blades and 4 blades are both brass.
Click to expand...

4 blades, both on the OEM props, and new ACME props. Four blades is the only way to go on a 340. Your boat is way over propped if you can only get 4000 RPM at WOT, you need to reduce the pitch or you run the risk of damaging your engines.
 
lpvanam said:
Are you running 3 or 4 blades? I'm running 4 blade 18x21 and get 25 mph 30 gph at 3200 rpm and a WOT rpm of 4000. BTW, my original 3 blades and 4 blades are both brass.
Click to expand...
What size are your original props? '06 literature I have shows 17 x 19 3BC, WOT 5,000rpm. If everything is running well and she has a clean bottom then you need to get the right props on it and bring the rpm up....4,000 is not good.
 
I had my mechanic check the fuel pressure in each engine; supposed to be 40 and my port engine was at 70, which explained the higher fuel burn rate. Problem turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator in the cool fuel unit.
Bob - At Last said:
My port engine is burning 2-3 gph more fuel than my starboard engine. RPM's are good, strainers are clear, seawater pumps are new and the genny pulls from the starboard engine. I track my gph closely and past seasons both engines have been in sync in terms of fuel burn rate. Any ideas on the potential cause before I go to my mechanic?
Click to expand...
 
sfergson727 said:
The later model 340's (375's) have no AC lights, only DC....so you are normal.

For the swivel lights, there is a slot you can use to pop off the lens. It was a slap your forehead moment for me, as the solution was so simple and obvious.
Click to expand...

Thanks again Scott,

Still couldn't figured out the swivels :smt021

Another question about lights.

To run the lights have to activate the cabin lights button from DC panel than cabin entrance wall left side black rocker button (right side button runs three foot level lights and electrical panel leds), which activates/deactivates the whole cabin lights, but when activates the aft cabin ceiling/bulkhead lights stays always on while other lights have their dedicated rocker switches. Is this normal or is there somewhere a button for them ?

TIA
 
Last edited:
Sounds like someone bypassed the switch for those bulkhead lights. On mine, all the cabin lights will extinguish when you switch off the power at the entrance.

If you look at the lense portion of the swivel lights, you'll see little slots which you can use to pry the lense off with a small flat head screw driver.

View attachment 41337
 
Last edited:
sfergson727 said:
Sounds like someone bypassed the switch for those bulkhead lights. On mine, all the cabin lights will extinguish when you switch off the power at the entrance.

If you look at the lense portion of the swivel lights, you'll see little slots which you can use to pry the lense off with a small flat head screw driver.

View attachment 41337
Click to expand...

Scott thanks again.

No bypassing for the bulkhead lights. I guess my English is not enough to explain it clearly:smt021

As you wrote my bulkhead lights also extinguishes when switch off the wall button but when I switch on they run always and they don't have their dedicated switches like galley, head, salon sofa and front berth lights to shut them off.

Will try the swivels, hope I won't break the glass.
 
Melida - I posted how I solved that lighting problem a few years ago. I'll try it again. If you have the aft TV option, Sea Ray put a rocker switch next to the TV that turned off the two overhead lights by the stairs. If you did not have the TV option, those lights are on anytime the main cabin switch is ON. If the main cabin switch is OFF, the lights in the head will not work - not convenient in the middle of the night. Many people just take the bulbs out of those two lights and then they can have the Main cabin switch ON all night and have use of the head light or dim step lights. What I did was rewire those two lights to be controlled by the rocker switch to the left of the elec panel - that way that rocker controlled four cabin lights - the two over the stbd side couch and the two to the stbd side of the stairway...

Does that make any sense? It was easy to do - I can look for the post if you would like...
 
carterchapman said:
Melida - I posted how I solved that lighting problem a few years ago. I'll try it again. If you have the aft TV option, Sea Ray put a rocker switch next to the TV that turned off the two overhead lights by the stairs. If you did not have the TV option, those lights are on anytime the main cabin switch is ON. If the main cabin switch is OFF, the lights in the head will not work - not convenient in the middle of the night. Many people just take the bulbs out of those two lights and then they can have the Main cabin switch ON all night and have use of the head light or dim step lights. What I did was rewire those two lights to be controlled by the rocker switch to the left of the elec panel - that way that rocker controlled four cabin lights - the two over the stbd side couch and the two to the stbd side of the stairway...

Does that make any sense? It was easy to do - I can look for the post if you would like...
Click to expand...

Thanks Carter.

I don't have the aft tv option and my lights are working as what you wrote.

So I'll take out the bulbs until I rewire them for a separate switch.

Also I'd like to see your past post about it.
 
sfergson727 said:
They have two types. The kind that is in my boat, which sounds like a real horn (although I still felt it necessary to install an air horn), and the quacker.
Click to expand...

Hi guys,
Has anyone sourced the electric horn positioned at the "sharp end" recently?
The SeaRay distributor here tells me they don't make the long oval shaped one anymore and the new version is a completely different shape and won't fit the existing hole.
I would greatly appreciate it if you can point me in the right direction towards the original manufacturer or a dealer that may have one.
Thanks
Chris
 
ChrisW said:
Hi guys,
Has anyone sourced the electric horn positioned at the "sharp end" recently?
The SeaRay distributor here tells me they don't make the long oval shaped one anymore and the new version is a completely different shape and won't fit the existing hole.
I would greatly appreciate it if you can point me in the right direction towards the original manufacturer or a dealer that may have one.
Thanks
Chris
Click to expand...

I think this may be what you are looking for.. It's what I replaced in mine and it fit perfect.

Seachoice 14571 drop in horn
 
Shower sump check valve. Has anyone come up with a better solution to the worthless Rule check valve inside the sump box? They do not prevent water coming back into the shower sump box from the bilge lines. I don't want to order new replacement joker valves from Rule because I want a better solution.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,253
Messages
1,429,373
Members
61,133
Latest member
Willbeckett
Back
Top