Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

mblockb said:
M Prod, thanks for the quick response. To take that pic I did not pull the head-unit. Pulled the circuit breaker panel and stuck my iPhone in the opening and started snapping pics until I got one that showed the RCAs. Question on placement of your Bluetooth Module/Dongle. Did you place it behind the head-unit/circuit breaker panel inside the cavity? Or did you run the aux cable outside and then attach? The Aux is on the head unit above the breaker panel not the unit above the galley? The Bluetooth adapter I have needs 12v so I need to figure out powering it. Ordered the RCA to 3.5mm adapter and plan on plugging in Friday evening for sound test. Plan is to get it working then figure out the cleanest permanent installation. Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Yep I installed it on the Clarion unit on the panel. (I ended up replacing the unit above the galley altogether with a new Kenwood Bluetooth deck). So far as the clarion, the module I got also needed the power supply. Again if memory serves me correct, I used the Clarion’s power and ground wires ...just cut them and spliced the module in the reconnections.

This is the Bluetooth module I put in:

https://www.jlaudio.com/products/mbt-rx-marine-audio-bluetooth-receiver-91126
 
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M Prod said:
Yep I installed it on the Clarion unit on the panel. (I ended up replacing the unit above the galley altogether with a new Kenwood Bluetooth deck). So far as the clarion, the module I got also needed the power supply. Again if memory serves me correct, I used the Clarion’s power and ground wires ...just cut them and spliced the module in the reconnections.

This is the Bluetooth module I put in:

mbt-rx bluetooth receiver
Click to expand...
Appreciate the input. If I am not happy with the BT module I am sure the head-unit will get upgraded shortly.
 
liv2ryde100 said:
ok so i been asking some questions and just want to throw this out there. i did my elbows and manifolds 2 seasons ago and thought i was all good to go. then i ran my boat on a big trip. 107 miles each way. i blew a transmission cooler. i didnt even know that was something that should be replaced. then i found out we have oil coolers also. i can only imagine an oil cooler letting go and flooding a motor with sea water from the bottom up. anyway just thought i would tell u guys replace your transmission coolers and oil coolers. relatively inexpensive and can save you big time down the road. i live on long island in new york. i live in massapequa. my trip was from massapequa east. 3 nights in westhampton beach, then on to montauk for 2 nights, then across to block island for another 2 nights and then all the way back home. amazing trip. luckily i got a shaft seal and a tranny cooler replaced in montauk. rode the inside through the bays and through shinnecock locks and up around shelter island. such a beautiful ride.
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Sounds like a nice trip. I bought my 360DA last Oct and since the previous owner had just done the manifolds I had the risers and both sets of coolers changed over the winter. Also did the shaft seals, belts, spark plug wires and most of the hoses. Our season is just too short to deal with maintenance issues.
 
Tripsdad said:
Sounds like a nice trip. I bought my 360DA last Oct and since the previous owner had just done the manifolds I had the risers and both sets of coolers changed over the winter. Also did the shaft seals, belts, spark plug wires and most of the hoses. Our season is just too short to deal with maintenance issues.
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Totally agree good for u changing all that stuff it’s worth the piece of mind
 
thanks for the info i just finished it went well. i replaced my iac valve at the same time because that motor would intermittently almost stall when shifting in and out of gear at idle. but it didnt fix the problem. i also recently replaced the iac sponges also, and it didnt correct the problem either.
 
liv2ryde100 said:
thanks for the info i just finished it went well. i replaced my iac valve at the same time because that motor would intermittently almost stall when shifting in and out of gear at idle. but it didnt fix the problem. i also recently replaced the iac sponges also, and it didnt correct the problem either.
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Ah well ...at least you have some things checked off? Always good. :)
 
rmlsll said:
I did it with the mercury gateway module and NMEA 2000 feeding both vesselview and garmin 742. Did not work. Only way it would work is to disconnect either vesselview or gateway from junction box. Both together no go. Currently using garmin as a speedometer and chartplotter. Not a problem because both the garmin and gateway will go back on the pontoon this winter.
Click to expand...

Problem fixed. Seems I bought a first generation gateway with a glitch in the program back in January. Mercury sent me a new gateway and now I can see all engine data on both smartcraft and or garmin. Thumbs up to mercury customer service !
 
mblockb said:
Appreciate the input. If I am not happy with the BT module I am sure the head-unit will get upgraded shortly.
Click to expand...
Those were the RCAs for the Aux in. Got the Blue-tooth working this weekend which was very nice. Tried to find a way to fish the aux cable, bought a 6' one, out from within the breaker panel cavity. Couldn't find a simple way but only spent about 30 min. Looks like I may have to cut a small hole into one of the cabinets on the left or right. Appreciate any suggestions.
 
liv2ryde100 said:
U pulled it outta the dipstick opening? Or the filter side? Btw filter Is 160$ ?? Wtf
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Suck the fluid out and then for final draining pull the drain plug easy to get to on the side of our ZF Hurth ...
Filters are 43 bucks here
https://www.fredwarner.net/product/...wPEcCjz_qWmZoHLBAw1fICnLgXkqJ8URoCNI4QAvD_BwE
I had a cooler go bad on me last year, so know the pain. Replaced both of them. Didn’t do the oil coolers yet...or the cool fuel is another one to worry about I assume. I had a heat exchanger go bad too, caught that while winterizing... would have cracked my block if hadn’t noticed that. Scary stuff.
I just got back from 500 mile trip, Kingston NY to Oyster Bay, then to Block for 9 days ... awesome out there... then to Greenport/Shelter, then Sag Harbor, Northport, Haverstraw Marina (pool is open ) ... then home back to work. 2 week boat trip with 1 incident only, lost 300 rpms just after passing thru plum gut, dropped from 161 degrees to 152, kept going the 30 miles to block, it was a little rough no time to troubleshoot. Found a plug wire off when I got to block, easy fix, tie wrapped it in place. Boot was not snapping on, gotta crimp or replace soon
 
DennisWittig said:
Suck the fluid out and then for final draining pull the drain plug easy to get to on the side of our ZF Hurth ...
Filters are 43 bucks here
https://www.fredwarner.net/product/...wPEcCjz_qWmZoHLBAw1fICnLgXkqJ8URoCNI4QAvD_BwE
I had a cooler go bad on me last year, so know the pain. Replaced both of them. Didn’t do the oil coolers yet...or the cool fuel is another one to worry about I assume. I had a heat exchanger go bad too, caught that while winterizing... would have cracked my block if hadn’t noticed that. Scary stuff.
I just got back from 500 mile trip, Kingston NY to Oyster Bay, then to Block for 9 days ... awesome out there... then to Greenport/Shelter, then Sag Harbor, Northport, Haverstraw Marina (pool is open ) ... then home back to work. 2 week boat trip with 1 incident only, lost 300 rpms just after passing thru plum gut, dropped from 161 degrees to 152, kept going the 30 miles to block, it was a little rough no time to troubleshoot. Found a plug wire off when I got to block, easy fix, tie wrapped it in place. Boot was not snapping on, gotta crimp or replace soon
Click to expand...
Wow that’s An amazing trip good for u! Thanks for the link on the filter but it is a different part number than the one the marina has. I wonder if there’s a difference besides 120$. 35-879194241. That’s the part number I have from the marina. But if u say that one fits and works then I guess I’ll give it a shot.
 
liv2ryde100 said:
Wow that’s An amazing trip good for u! Thanks for the link on the filter but it is a different part number than the one the marina has. I wonder if there’s a difference besides 120$. 35-879194241. That’s the part number I have from the marina. But if u say that one fits and works then I guess I’ll give it a shot.
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My 2004 tranny ID plate says ‘ZF 63 IV’, If your plate says the same, this $43 filter is the OEM filter for it non-Mercury Marine part-number-ized ( price quadrupled ). This is a genuine ZF Hurth filter and 2 new O-rings set. Warning there’s a little part that snaps into the filter that you re-use, don’t throw it away in the changing mess...I almost did, it was in my trash bag. I always sucked the fluid from the filter hole Not the dipstick. I had to change fluid many times to clean the water contamination from my failed filter, was strawberry milk when I found out. I changed, ran to hot, 7 times. First few it failed again and slipped ( engine over speed ) caught by smartcraft and shut engine to limp mode. Was scared I had ruined tranny but after 3rd flush it was running OK. Kept changing after every short trip to assure no water left on plates. I was told to do this by Rick (Marine transmission expert) at EastCoastMarine down in Perth Amboy NJ. That was last year, so it’s been a year and all is good :) so far. Failure last year happened right after a similar trip out to Block among other places, was lucky it failed near home in August. I shouldn’t have said “ 3rd flush “. Rick clearly said, just keep changing the fluid with new Dexron III, do not try using any miracle cleaner fluids.
 
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DennisWittig said:
My 2004 tranny ID plate says ‘ZF 63 IV’, If your plate says the same, this $43 filter is the OEM filter for it non-Mercury Marine part-number-ized ( price quadrupled ). This is a genuine ZF Hurth filter and 2 new O-rings set. Warning there’s a little part that snaps into the filter that you re-use, don’t throw it away in the changing mess...I almost did, it was in my trash bag. I always sucked the fluid from the filter hole Not the dipstick. I had to change fluid many times to clean the water contamination from my failed filter, was strawberry milk when I found out. I changed, ran to hot, 7 times. First few it failed again and slipped ( engine over speed ) caught by smartcraft and shut engine to limp mode. Was scared I had ruined tranny but after 3rd flush it was running OK. Kept changing after every short trip to assure no water left on plates. I was told to do this by Rick (Marine transmission expert) at EastCoastMarine down in Perth Amboy NJ. That was last year, so it’s been a year and all is good :) so far. Failure last year happened right after a similar trip out to Block among other places, was lucky it failed near home in August. I shouldn’t have said “ 3rd flush “. Rick clearly said, just keep changing the fluid with new Dexron III, do not try using any miracle cleaner fluids.
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Ok cool thanks so much for the info. My transmission plate says the exact same thing. I’ll order one. Yes we kept flushing the transmission sucking out fluid and refilling and all is fine now, then changed the other cooler, and this fall I’ll do the oil coolers.
 
outobie said:
cant help as my boat is still in shop but would love to hear what your generator issue ended up being. Mine has similar symptoms ( will run for a few minutes then quit) and the shop hasn’t been able to figure it out.

I’m still trying to have them launch my boat for the year and this is my last issue
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Just had similar issue. Replaced plugs, filter, cleaned carb (took it apart) and it got a little better. Ended up speaking with my regular mechanic and his advice was to replace the carb (not rebuild it). Did just that and then had issues with getting genny to turn off. Had to use battery switch to do so. Found thread on CSR and said the not turning OFF problem if from both switches (Cabin and Genny) was a relay in the control box. Relay tested good, so not that. Called Kohler and they had me do some testing on control board. Long story short, the STOP switch was activating the circuit on the control board (by watching for the respective led4 light come on), but the relay was not opening to shut down the genny. That relay also controls the shut down when a sensor (oil pressure, temp, water flow) activates due to a problem. This can be tested by grounding out any of the sensors. Moral to story, mine started doing the same thing, running for a little while and then shutting down. It ended up being the carb (runs much smoother now) and the board. As the relay on the board was going bad, it was heating up and shutting the unit down according to Kohler. Hope this helps.
 
Korkie said:
Just had similar issue. Replaced plugs, filter, cleaned carb (took it apart) and it got a little better. Ended up speaking with my regular mechanic and his advice was to replace the carb (not rebuild it). Did just that and then had issues with getting genny to turn off. Had to use battery switch to do so. Found thread on CSR and said the not turning OFF problem if from both switches (Cabin and Genny) was a relay in the control box. Relay tested good, so not that. Called Kohler and they had me do some testing on control board. Long story short, the STOP switch was activating the circuit on the control board (by watching for the respective led4 light come on), but the relay was not opening to shut down the genny. That relay also controls the shut down when a sensor (oil pressure, temp, water flow) activates due to a problem. This can be tested by grounding out any of the sensors. Moral to story, mine started doing the same thing, running for a little while and then shutting down. It ended up being the carb (runs much smoother now) and the board. As the relay on the board was going bad, it was heating up and shutting the unit down according to Kohler. Hope this helps.
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For anyone who decides to go the Carb route here are the part numbers for a 2004 5KW 5E(Non LED display). Tech said I can buy them from this site cheaper than he can sell them to me. Also was pleasantly surprised to learn these are Kawasaki not Kohler engines.

Carb item number: 359847
https://www.partsfortechs.com/asapc...result&search_in_description=1&keyword=359847
Gasket, Carb to Air Filter: 359741
https://www.partsfortechs.com/asapc...e=product_info&cPath=14_83_88&products_id=922
Gasket Carb: 359842
https://www.partsfortechs.com/asapc...=product_info&cPath=14_83_174&products_id=896
 
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