cabrale
New Member
- Sep 1, 2008
- 23
- Boat Info
- 2001 310 Sundancer, 5.7L with v- drives and genny
- Engines
- 5.7L mercruiser v-drive
Sorry, see my reply below
Last edited:
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
Do you have pictures? I have a slant back too, just wondering if it's the same as mine.
I have put a deposit down on a 2001 310 and went and spent a few hours looking closely at it and had a couple of questions. I am noticing that the forward section of the engine hatch doesn't sit down flat across the face of the deck; it looks like it has sagged in the middle somewhat, which kind of pushes the corners up a little above the level of the deck. Is this a normal condition in one of these? I'm not really surprised due to the age and that it looks like the entire span of the hatch is just fiberglass, so I just want to make sure that it isn't indicating a problem. Also, how do you go about getting that hatch open without a major project? I couldn't see an easy way to conveniently open for routine inspection.
Another question I have, is there any adjustability in the forward canvas and eisenglass tension? Most of the rubber attachment strips that connect to the windshield are pulled out of the slots, and there isn't enough slack to pull them down and in. I didn't have a chance to really look to see if the frame could be loosened enough to get it reattached. Other than that it looks like the canvas is in decent shape and the glass is clear.
Finally, the little "finger" that holds the chain or line to the windlass is bent back and is not working properly. Is that part replaceable itself or is it more involved?
All in all, the boat looks really clean and I am planning on moving forward with a survey, but having some answers to these few questions, would be great!
Thanks in advance!
So the boat I am working towards purchasing will need manifolds and risers sooner rather than later. Have any of you guys done your own and if so, how hard is it to do based on the tight engine compartment? If you have any suggestions, which could make the job easier, I would highly appreciate it!
Thanks!
What engines are in the boat you are considering? I have the 7.4's in mine, and it looks like it would be fairly tricky working on the outboard side. I imagine that the smaller engine packages would be much easier.
Also, when I bought the boat I made the offer contingent on new manifolds/risers being installed before the sale. If it's due, it's due, and needs to be factored in.
On another note, I notice that the factory eisenglass "windshield" has the rubber strip attachment to the windshield frame. It seems that it would be very difficult snap these back in without loosening the frame or zippers. What is the proper reattachment technique for these?
....Did you see the thermostat below the TV? It's a Venstar T5800, now I can control my AC from the cellphone, tablet, PC, etc. Works great so far...
Regarding #2, if the compression check showed a problem, manifolds and risers are the LEAST of your worries. A compression test doesn't check the manifolds or risers.
What were the compression test results?
Agreed, but it does show if there is some valve seat issues due to the beginning of water getting into the heads. Especially on the cylinders directly below the risers. The compression testing has two cylinders at 205 psi vs 220 in almost all others. The mechanic/surveyor indicated that the lower cylinder pressures were still within Merc tolerances and will further check on the sea trial. The knock time on that engine was still very low, and there were no codes thrown.
Can anyone give me information on how to change the sliding door track on my 1998 310 sundancer.
Seems i need to remove the whole dash...are there any drawings on how to access the screws?
The old system is troublesome... are there new tracks and wheels with a diffrent design...?something more solid?