Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

[cabrale]

Sorry, see my reply below

 

[cabrale]

Do you have pictures? I have a slant back too, just wondering if it's the same as mine.

I dont have any with it on the boat i never got around to putting it on. Here is a link to one i found online seems to be the same one. Its 3 peices in total. Bimini behind the arch, the back piece with the glass that wraps around and the one where the door opening is. If it helps you can call me anytime at 416-566-7457 or email at cabrale101@gmail.com

http://www.boatquest.com/listing/91675/2001-31-ft-dot--sea-ray-310-sundancer.html

Manny

 

[amajamar]

I have put a deposit down on a 2001 310 and went and spent a few hours looking closely at it and had a couple of questions. I am noticing that the forward section of the engine hatch doesn't sit down flat across the face of the deck; it looks like it has sagged in the middle somewhat, which kind of pushes the corners up a little above the level of the deck. Is this a normal condition in one of these? I'm not really surprised due to the age and that it looks like the entire span of the hatch is just fiberglass, so I just want to make sure that it isn't indicating a problem. Also, how do you go about getting that hatch open without a major project? I couldn't see an easy way to conveniently open for routine inspection.

Another question I have, is there any adjustability in the forward canvas and eisenglass tension? Most of the rubber attachment strips that connect to the windshield are pulled out of the slots, and there isn't enough slack to pull them down and in. I didn't have a chance to really look to see if the frame could be loosened enough to get it reattached. Other than that it looks like the canvas is in decent shape and the glass is clear.

Finally, the little "finger" that holds the chain or line to the windlass is bent back and is not working properly. Is that part replaceable itself or is it more involved?

All in all, the boat looks really clean and I am planning on moving forward with a survey, but having some answers to these few questions, would be great!

Thanks in advance!

 

[cazimmy]

I have put a deposit down on a 2001 310 and went and spent a few hours looking closely at it and had a couple of questions. I am noticing that the forward section of the engine hatch doesn't sit down flat across the face of the deck; it looks like it has sagged in the middle somewhat, which kind of pushes the corners up a little above the level of the deck. Is this a normal condition in one of these? I'm not really surprised due to the age and that it looks like the entire span of the hatch is just fiberglass, so I just want to make sure that it isn't indicating a problem. Also, how do you go about getting that hatch open without a major project? I couldn't see an easy way to conveniently open for routine inspection.

Another question I have, is there any adjustability in the forward canvas and eisenglass tension? Most of the rubber attachment strips that connect to the windshield are pulled out of the slots, and there isn't enough slack to pull them down and in. I didn't have a chance to really look to see if the frame could be loosened enough to get it reattached. Other than that it looks like the canvas is in decent shape and the glass is clear.

Finally, the little "finger" that holds the chain or line to the windlass is bent back and is not working properly. Is that part replaceable itself or is it more involved?

All in all, the boat looks really clean and I am planning on moving forward with a survey, but having some answers to these few questions, would be great!

Thanks in advance!

Hi. Congratulations on putting the deposit down. We love our 310.

For the engine hatch, it is hard to say without seeing a picture. Did you take a picture? Ours is an '02 but I would think they are similar. There are little pieces of where the forward engine hatch sits against the boat. You have to actually lift the hatch up just a little so that it gets locked in, in three or four places where the plastic pieces are. Then it will sit flat. As for a way to open the forward hatch, it is heavy and a pain in the neck. Considering they made the back electric and so easy to operate the forward hatch is a disappointment.

As for the canvas, this is one I would really need to see a picture of to offer an opinion.

For the Windless, yes, you can replace the finger. I called Imtra (http://www.imtra.com/) and as long as you have all of the proper information (boat year, model of windless, etc), you should be able to replace the finger. If memory serves, it's about $100.

Hope this helps.

 

[amajamar]

So the boat I am working towards purchasing will need manifolds and risers sooner rather than later. Have any of you guys done your own and if so, how hard is it to do based on the tight engine compartment? If you have any suggestions, which could make the job easier, I would highly appreciate it!

Thanks!

 

[src]

So the boat I am working towards purchasing will need manifolds and risers sooner rather than later. Have any of you guys done your own and if so, how hard is it to do based on the tight engine compartment? If you have any suggestions, which could make the job easier, I would highly appreciate it!

Thanks!

What engines are in the boat you are considering? I have the 7.4's in mine, and it looks like it would be fairly tricky working on the outboard side. I imagine that the smaller engine packages would be much easier.

Also, when I bought the boat I made the offer contingent on new manifolds/risers being installed before the sale. If it's due, it's due, and needs to be factored in.

 

[amajamar]

What engines are in the boat you are considering? I have the 7.4's in mine, and it looks like it would be fairly tricky working on the outboard side. I imagine that the smaller engine packages would be much easier.

Also, when I bought the boat I made the offer contingent on new manifolds/risers being installed before the sale. If it's due, it's due, and needs to be factored in.

I should have mentioned that it has 5.7's. The space between the engines seems rather tight to me, as well.

 

[amajamar]

On another note, I notice that the factory eisenglass "windshield" has the rubber strip attachment to the windshield frame. It seems that it would be very difficult snap these back in without loosening the frame or zippers. What is the proper reattachment technique for these?

 

[src]

On another note, I notice that the factory eisenglass "windshield" has the rubber strip attachment to the windshield frame. It seems that it would be very difficult snap these back in without loosening the frame or zippers. What is the proper reattachment technique for these?

The only time I had trouble with mine was when I first installed them - mainly because I was trying to figure out what goes where, and also the canvas hadn't been up for more than a year, so it was much tighter than it has been since then.

I can almost always get the rubber strip into the channel with everything fully zipped. I just start on the outside corners and work my way in. They will fight you more when they are cold, though. Everything is stiffer and there isn't as much give to it.

 

[billnpat]

Where does the deck table with those 2 locking leg pins on each side go? when not used as a table,
theres a pad that attaches to it.
Any pics of what it looks like in place?:huh:

 

[340diesel]

Some updates.

 

[Fly'n Family]

Very nice!!! What size screen is that? Really like the fridge too.

 

[340diesel]

Thanks!! It's an old LCD Vizio 22".

Fridge it's a Kenmore 2.7cu, planning on running this on a power inverter when the gen is not on.

Did you see the thermostat below the TV? It's a Venstar T5800, now I can control my AC from the cellphone, tablet, PC, etc. Works great so far.

Many other projects and updates coming.

 

[ardeprint]

....Did you see the thermostat below the TV? It's a Venstar T5800, now I can control my AC from the cellphone, tablet, PC, etc. Works great so far...

That I like! Never found these app driven thermostats useful. But, for this application I see it as a great idea! Looks great!!! You can tell there is lots of love going into these projects!

 

[amajamar]

Working my way throught the process of purchasing... Bulk of survey completed yesterday... sea trial and hull inspection to come. ('01 310 5.7 Horizons VDRs)

A couple of things I need some advice on...

1-Port engine needs a fuel pump (it is very loud), I am being quoted about $400 with new cooler parts only... Does this seem right? Anything else I need to know about?

2-Needs manifolds and risers, compression checks confirmed this, and was planning on this anyway.

3-Generator has a leak in the water injected elbow, this one seems pricey at about 1k to replace if necessary. Anyone have any experience with this?

4-Front light does not rotate (does go up and down, though) might be switch... might not. Surveyor says those lights can be repaired, replacement is about $500. Thoughts here?

5-High water bilge switch (or pump) not functional... doesn't seem to be a big deal right?

6-Starboard engine has minor oil leak at where the dipsticks connect to pan. Surveyor says it is really difficult to get to it to tighten up the connection. (This one concerns me as he also says the motor may need to be pulled) What do you guys think about this one?

7-I noticed that the floor of the head did not drain fully and left a puddle away from the drain, seemed like the boat was sitting a little bow down and was pitched forward a little. Full water, half fuel. Is this an issue on these? Minor, but could be annoying to have to squeegee or towel dry all the time.

8-Also, the engines have fresh water flush systems installed, but there is no connection kits to attach garden hose to. The surveyor said that they should have come with the boat, but obviously they may have dissapeared. What are those parts and where can I get them?

Thanks in advance!

 

[src]

Regarding #2, if the compression check showed a problem, manifolds and risers are the LEAST of your worries. A compression test doesn't check the manifolds or risers.

What were the compression test results?

 

[amajamar]

Regarding #2, if the compression check showed a problem, manifolds and risers are the LEAST of your worries. A compression test doesn't check the manifolds or risers.

What were the compression test results?

Agreed, but it does show if there is some valve seat issues due to the beginning of water getting into the heads. Especially on the cylinders directly below the risers. The compression testing has two cylinders at 205 psi vs 220 in almost all others. The mechanic/surveyor indicated that the lower cylinder pressures were still within Merc tolerances and will further check on the sea trial. The knock time on that engine was still very low, and there were no codes thrown.

 

[src]

Agreed, but it does show if there is some valve seat issues due to the beginning of water getting into the heads. Especially on the cylinders directly below the risers. The compression testing has two cylinders at 205 psi vs 220 in almost all others. The mechanic/surveyor indicated that the lower cylinder pressures were still within Merc tolerances and will further check on the sea trial. The knock time on that engine was still very low, and there were no codes thrown.

True enough, and you seem well aware of the issues involved. The way you stated the question for #2 just had me worried that the symptom and cause were getting mixed up.

 

[arifaat]

Can anyone give me information on how to change the sliding door track on my 1998 310 sundancer.
Seems i need to remove the whole dash...are there any drawings on how to access the screws?
The old system is troublesome... are there new tracks and wheels with a diffrent design...?something more solid?

 

[340diesel]

Can anyone give me information on how to change the sliding door track on my 1998 310 sundancer.
Seems i need to remove the whole dash...are there any drawings on how to access the screws?
The old system is troublesome... are there new tracks and wheels with a diffrent design...?something more solid?

I have changed the trucks recently, they were all pretty bad.

Seller claims the track has to be changed also, but I take my chance and everything work out good.

I got to a point where the door was almost out without removing the dash, but then decide just to change the trucks.