Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

So searay must have changed the head intake from raw water to fresh water from your water tank in 87.My we was an 86 and the water to the head came off the same strainer as the a/c.I know this because those hoses were a b*&^h to feed through to the head when i replaced them,it went between the bulkhead and the head wall then turned 90 degrees through a 1 1/4 " hole then about 8" to the head and we all know how easy cold white sanitation hose flexes,NOT!
 
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1956olds said:
So searay must have changed the head intake from raw water to fresh water from your water tank in 87.My we was an 86 and the water to the head came off the same strainer as the a/c.I know this because those hoses were a b*&^h to feed through to the head when i replaced them,it went between the bulkhead and the head wall then turned 90 degrees through a 1 1/4 " hole then about 8" to the head and we all know how easy cold white sanitation hose flexes,NOT!
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Interesting. Mine is an 86, so it technically should be the same as what you had. I don't think any manufacturers back in those days were very specific when they switched from one model to another. I wonder if it has to do something with the type of head you have. Mine is an electric flush and maybe they didn't want to run raw (sea) water through it?
 
Mine is a Vacuflush. After looking at the boat I went ahead and looked at my book. It is plumbed using the fresh water from my fresh water system.
 
does anyone think 4200 is necessary where the bow rail attaches to the deck or do you think the rubber gasket properly tightened is enough to keep water out?
 
mea3pk said:
does anyone think 4200 is necessary where the bow rail attaches to the deck or do you think the rubber gasket properly tightened is enough to keep water out?
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I'm about to pull my entire bow rail down, fix soft spots, and re-install. I'll know more after I've done this, but here is my understanding. The sealant under the base shouldn't be counted on to help with strength. It's just to keep water from penetrating the deck. So technically, the best sealant should be some butyl tape. I doubt many people actually use it in this location, but who knows, maybe. My plan at this point is to fix each stanchion base so that's it's as strongly mounted as possible without relying on an adhesive. Then I'll use Sikaflex 291 as a sealant (it's also an adhesive, but that's just icing on the cake).

The bottom line is that there's more than one way to seal the bow rails, but it needs some kind of sealant and a rubber gasket won't cut it alone.
 
does anyone have any suggestions as to where i can find an owners manual for my 1987 sea ray 300? I don't know if it was a transition year or whatever but on the sea ray site there seams to be no indication of the weekender designation. my boat does not have the aft berth
 
mea3pk said:
does anyone have any suggestions as to where i can find an owners manual for my 1987 sea ray 300? I don't know if it was a transition year or whatever but on the sea ray site there seams to be no indication of the weekender designation. my boat does not have the aft berth
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If you can't find one specific to the '87, perhaps the '88 - '89 manual will be helpful even if it's not an exact match?
http://www.searay.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/Company1729/1C1_23_74DEJAJMT0Z.pdf

And I think I have an '89 WE parts manual I could email to you if you'd like.
 
mea3pk said:
does anyone think 4200 is necessary where the bow rail attaches to the deck or do you think the rubber gasket properly tightened is enough to keep water out?
Click to expand...

TitanTn said:
I'm about to pull my entire bow rail down, fix soft spots, and re-install. I'll know more after I've done this, but here is my understanding. The sealant under the base shouldn't be counted on to help with strength. It's just to keep water from penetrating the deck. So technically, the best sealant should be some butyl tape. I doubt many people actually use it in this location, but who knows, maybe. My plan at this point is to fix each stanchion base so that's it's as strongly mounted as possible without relying on an adhesive. Then I'll use Sikaflex 291 as a sealant (it's also an adhesive, but that's just icing on the cake).

The bottom line is that there's more than one way to seal the bow rails, but it needs some kind of sealant and a rubber gasket won't cut it alone.
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Post #3 in this thread is a link to a youtube how to for using butyl tape; the thread has some additional suggestions/lessons learned from other members, too, as far as types of sealants and getting at the through bolts.

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/68213-Leakage-through-base-rail-fittings
 
I see your engineless. There is a member here seeking his twins at a very good price. If you are interested I will post his info for you tonight
 
to me it looks like the trim ring and tinted glass is all one piece, I've also seen just the ring. anybody have similar? trying to figure it out before I order all four. port light.JPG
 
The lens (smoked) is separate from the trim ring. Generally you have to replace both. The old lenses get brittle and crack with age. The rings snap on to the lenses and generally break when you separate them.

I'm in the middle of painting my boat and have pulled all the hardware etc. off including these port lights. I have dress up the edge and sealed them with cpe epoxy. Lens and rings go back on after paint.

I have found this guy "searayman13" on ebay very helpful in rounding up original and aftermarket parts. Pricey but helpful!

PS. your photo shows only the one piece lens - the trim ring is not show and is usually off white and snaps on to what you have shown ... I assume you have pulled the trim ring off.
 
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nope, just the way i got the boat. i figured there had to be a trim ring but wasn't sure. I've got a few things from searayman13, good source. can't complain about the pricing when he's the one with the goods lol.
 
anybody know where I can get fuel tank sending units? seem to have a problem locating 19". not sure if the existing ones work or not but I'm pulling them to inspect the tanks and figured I'd replace them with new. on that note has anyone had any problems with fuel tank leaks? mine are 100 gal. 5052 aluminum. I wanted to pressure check them but getting the things i need to do that is also becoming a project.
 
mea3pk said:
anybody know where I can get fuel tank sending units? seem to have a problem locating 19". not sure if the existing ones work or not but I'm pulling them to inspect the tanks and figured I'd replace them with new. on that note has anyone had any problems with fuel tank leaks? mine are 100 gal. 5052 aluminum. I wanted to pressure check them but getting the things i need to do that is also becoming a project.
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Most of the time you just get a universal sending unit and cut the lever the correct length you need. That's why most of them say they work for 17" - 22" as an example.
 
Unless you have better luck with sending units and fuel gauges on the boat than I do, go for fuel flow sensors of some sort instead. Not only will you be able to more accurately guess how much fuel you have onboard, but you'll be able to see in real time how much you're ar burining at any given time.
They are more expensive to bein with, but can save you money on fuel in the long run.
 
thanks for the replies. anyone have any input on fuel tank corrosion? I have an estimate for 1050$ for new tanks. from the looks of it the location of the existing tanks are in a pretty good spot, up from the bottom of the hull with good water drainage. what a week, I got things done I didn't think id get done till the spring. pulled all three hatches and re sealed, pulled the bow rail and cleats and butyled them, replaced the blower vents and made a rubber gasket for the collector boxes, sealed up the radar arch, and installed four new port lights. just went out and checked after a good hour of steady rain and all seams dry accept for a tiny bit dripping in through two of the blower vents where the water comes off the deck and drains right onto the vent, a winter problem. I think someone hear suggested taping a piece of plastic baseboard over it to deflect the water. that or seal it over with plastic for the winter. either way, as of right now it looks like bye bye 85% humidity in the cabin :)
 
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