New to marine stereo's, need advice.

[glocklt4]

I used to be heavy into car stereo's, but marine audio is a new world to me. Bought my boat August last year, and now I'm ready to improve the stereo.

From home and car stereo, I like Polk, JL, Kicker, Infinity and the like for speakers. Alpine head units and amps have been good to me too, but not sure if they do marine stuff.

Right now I have just the stock clarion head unit with 2 stock speakers by the main middle seats, that's it.

My goal is to replace the stock speakers (most likely), add 2 up front in the open bow (definitely), and maybe two towards the rear by the rear bench. I'd also like to stick a 10-12" sub somewhere. Looks like best bet would be amp(s) under port side by the built in cooler in my 200 select, and then the sub in a box far under the driver's gauge area.

I'd like to stay under $1k for everything and I think that should be very possible, maybe even $500-600. I'm going to do all of the installing (assuming i get the courage to cut holes in the bow to add those speakers, ha).

So what do you recommend?

 

[papogator24]

I would recommend you getting JL audio speakers (7.7 in). I have them on my boat and they make a world of difference. Your plan seems very good. Just take your time doing the installation. Good Luck!

 

[First Born]

Another vote for JL, my only other advice is to contact BOEmarine (owner of this site) for pricing as well as they can give some good deals on JL but they can not post them (if I recall correctly).

Here is a link to my audio makeover.
http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7348&highlight=makeover

Wesley

 

[glocklt4]

Great, thanks guys. Been looking over your audio install a lot FirstBorn, haha. Great install.

Is the 7.7" speaker the one that replaces my stock speakers as well as goes in the spots I will have to cut out in the bow of my 200 sport? I have been trying to search and find out exactly what size I need, but no luck so far.

 

[First Born]

We went with 6.5 to replace the stock 6.5 speakers but that said the stock holes in the back were larger than were needed for the JL 6'5 speakers and reason for the extra outer layer. The holes in the front had to be cut out as well.

 

[papogator24]

Great, thanks guys. Been looking over your audio install a lot FirstBorn, haha. Great install.

Is the 7.7" speaker the one that replaces my stock speakers as well as goes in the spots I will have to cut out in the bow of my 200 sport? I have been trying to search and find out exactly what size I need, but no luck so far.

Your speakers are most likely 6.5 inch. For the 7.7 JL, you will have to modify the hole to fit the 7.7 JL. They also have a 6.5 inch Marine Speakers. I would recommend getting 7.7 JL's. I purchased mine from BOE Marine as well. But if you want to keep your cost under 1k, you could buy 2 pairs of JL's and a 4 channel amp plus wires.

Let us know how it goes.

 

[Morpheus]

3 pairs of speakers, a sub and an Amp to push it all. I can't see it being less then 500 I think it will definitly be more specialy for marine grade and you don't wanna cheap out on the amp.

 

[glocklt4]

3 pairs of speakers, a sub and an Amp to push it all. I can't see it being less then 500 I think it will definitly be more specialy for marine grade and you don't wanna cheap out on the amp.

Yeah, the $500-600 was my estimate if just adding another pair of speakers and a sub with an amp that could run all of those.

Would expect $1k for 2 pairs of nice speakers, 2 amps, and sub.

 

[glocklt4]

Your speakers are most likely 6.5 inch. For the 7.7 JL, you will have to modify the hole to fit the 7.7 JL. They also have a 6.5 inch Marine Speakers. I would recommend getting 7.7 JL's. I purchased mine from BOE Marine as well. But if you want to keep your cost under 1k, you could buy 2 pairs of JL's and a 4 channel amp plus wires.

Let us know how it goes.

Ok, thanks. Figured 6.5 based on everything i've been reading. Sent a PM to BOEmarine to see what they can do.


I'd say 4 options for the upgrade:

1) add two speakers to bow hooked into stock head unit, and 10 or 12" sub with separate amp. Should be around $500 or so

2) replace 2 current 6.5's with 7.7's and add two more to bow like #1. 2 channel amp at 2 ohm to run all 4 JL's. This would work for me as long as the bass response form the JL's was really good and I didn't see the need for a sub. Maybe $600-700?

3) same as #2 but add sub and either separate sub amp, or go with 4 channel amp and 2 channels for 4 7.7's, and bridge other 2 channels for sub. $850-1000?

4) same as 3 but another set of 7.7's and 4 channel amp to run all 6 mid's, then separate amp for sub. $1100-1250 ?

Seem like good options and prices maybe?

 

[glocklt4]

Looks like the 7.7's are a bit more expensive than I was thinking, haha. Crutchfield has them for $400/pair. Ebay they were $250/pair. Guess we'll see what BOE can get them for. Might go with some polk db651 or mm651 instead. $65/pair for db651 on ebay is just a tad cheaper and they appear to be pretty good. That would leave more $ for a better amp.

Also, one concern with 7.7" speakers over the normal 6.5" ... what if one dies in the future and I have to upgrade. Seems likely that there might be a problem getting the same size speaker. No one is concerned with that cutting larger than normal holes out of your boat?

 

[SeaRay]

I would go with the Polk Audio DB 651 speakers, for the money they are the best you'll find. You can get them on e-bay for about $45-$50 a pair (including shipping). I just put 4 in my boat (plus 4 on my wake board tower). And there was no modifying to get them installed.

Try looking for a Cadence marine amp - Good amps great price. I bought (2) SQA-4 (60 watts rms x 4) for $79 each off of e-bay and (1) SQA-1 (500 watts rms x 1) sub amp for $99 off the Cadence website below. They were on clearance, they might have newer amps now.

http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=58

I went with a new Clarion head unit, M475, so I could still use my wired remote. I found one for about $130 on e-bay. It has the Cnet input for Ipods (the cable is another $35 or so).

For everything above (not counting my wakeboard tower speakers, capacitor - which you don't really need, and my sub - see notes below) I spent less than $550. Add another $200 for wires (don't go cheap on the the power, twisted RCA cables and speakers wires. Do it once and do it right!)

I found an Alpine sub on e-bay but it didn't work out for me. It needed a bigger enclosure than I was willing to give up space for. Make sure you compare recommended enclosure size before you buy a sub and go with a sealed box for simplicity. I made a wedge shaped box under my dash gauges, where you are thinking of going.

I ended up went with a Wetsounds 12" sub and a ported box, but I spent ALL winter on this and built 3 boxes before I got it right. And I still am finishing it as I type. I spent half as much money on my sub setup as I did my entire system and a whole lot more time. (but it does ROCK now!!! :thumbsup

Hope this helps...oh, and don't forget about power... I had to add a second battery, 150 amp circuit breaker and a Yandina 100 combiner to get enough juice to everything.

Good Luck - let us know if you have any more questions.

 

[glocklt4]

Great, thank you very much for the info. I am trying to find the best place to order the db651's right now.

Couple questions based on your reply:

1) Which WetSounds 12" sub did you go with? Sounds like a good sub.

2) How'd you decide you need a cap? I had one in my car stereo about 10 years ago, but I don't remember what level of power usage you need one. I will be adding a second battery this weekend.

3) Also, thanks for the reminder on wires. I guess i need to find some marine grade wire too. Any recommendation there?

4) I'm concerned about the signal/noise ratio for the Cadence amps. Only >65db ... most other good amps I've been looking at are 100> db. Have you compared amps with the same speakers?

 

[SeaRay]

Here are the specs for the SQA-4

SQA-4
MARINE 4 CHANNEL STEREO POWER AMPLIFIER

SPECIFICATIONS:
4 Ohm RMS Power: 4 x 60 Watts @ 13.8 Volts
2 Ohm RMS Power: 4 x 100 Watts @ 13.8 Volts
4 Ohm Bridged RMS Power: 2 x 200 Watts @ 13.8 Volts
Frequency Response: 20Hz - 30kHz
S/N Ratio: >100 db
Damping Factor: >200 @ 100Hz
Minimum THD: <0.05%
Input Voltage: 200 mV - 8 Volts
Dimensions: 13" x 11" x 2.75"

The S/N Ratio for this one is >100db ???

I didn't really spend too much time comparing specs other than rms wattage. I figure they can put anything they want out there (including rms wattage) but for $80 each I could buy 3 or 4 of the Cadence for 1 JL Audio. If I decide to trade up later, I can probably sell the Cadence for $50 and not be too far behind.

I got the Wetsounds XS12. The bass out of the Polk Audio's isn't too bad. So the 10" Alpine I had didn't really add a lot. The 12" in a ported box gets me the low deep bass I wanted.

I probably didn't need the cap. A friend has one in his boat but I learned later that you really don't need one. The money is probably better spent on a second battery. BUT, I already had it and sending things back on e-bay is a PITA so I kept it. I guess it kind of helps regulate the voltage so it probably isn't all bad. And, the cap I got has a built in distribution block for the 3 amp power and ground wires so I didn't have to buy one of those.

I got Stinger power wires. Make sure you get something that is "tinned" for marine use. I went with 1/0 wire, less voltage drop and if you ever add anything you won't have to replace wires. Get twisted RCA patch cords, again I got Stinger RCA cables.

I would have to pull receipts to see where the power wires came from but I can if you want. I got the RCA's at a local American Appliance store.

If you can get 1/2 price on Wetsounds stuff - why not go all Wetsounds!!!

Get the sub and in-boats from them and price out the amp. Their stuff seems great and has an unbelievable reputation but you usually have to name your first kid Tim (after the owner) if you want to buy something from them!!

 

[Kurt]

I would go with the Polk Audio DB 651 speakers, for the money they are the best you'll find. You can get them on e-bay for about $45-$50 a pair (including shipping). I just put 4 in my boat (plus 4 on my wake board tower). And there was no modifying to get them installed.

Try looking for a Cadence marine amp - Good amps great price. I bought (2) SQA-4 (60 watts rms x 4) for $79 each off of e-bay and (1) SQA-1 (500 watts rms x 1) sub amp for $99 off the Cadence website below. They were on clearance, they might have newer amps now.

http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=58

I went with a new Clarion head unit, M475, so I could still use my wired remote. I found one for about $130 on e-bay. It has the Cnet input for Ipods (the cable is another $35 or so).

For everything above (not counting my wakeboard tower speakers, capacitor - which you don't really need, and my sub - see notes below) I spent less than $550. Add another $200 for wires (don't go cheap on the the power, twisted RCA cables and speakers wires. Do it once and do it right!)

I found an Alpine sub on e-bay but it didn't work out for me. It needed a bigger enclosure than I was willing to give up space for. Make sure you compare recommended enclosure size before you buy a sub and go with a sealed box for simplicity. I made a wedge shaped box under my dash gauges, where you are thinking of going.

I ended up went with a Wetsounds 12" sub and a ported box, but I spent ALL winter on this and built 3 boxes before I got it right. And I still am finishing it as I type. I spent half as much money on my sub setup as I did my entire system and a whole lot more time. (but it does ROCK now!!! :thumbsup

Hope this helps...oh, and don't forget about power... I had to add a second battery, 150 amp circuit breaker and a Yandina 100 combiner to get enough juice to everything.

Good Luck - let us know if you have any more questions.

I keep reading the do it once and do it right quote above and see all the things you have redone????

Glock I completely agree with Papogator and First Born. Don't waste you're money on off names as above and go with JL's/Rockford/Alpine and truely do it right the first time. $550 for a total set up is not going to get you quality new equipment. It mayget you used but I do not think I would buy used equipment with all the sales these days. Marine grade wire???? Just find a amp install kit from Stinger etc and it will work just fine.

Check out my install pics here. http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8851

 

[glocklt4]

I keep reading the do it once and do it right quote above and see all the things you have redone????

Glock I completely agree with Papogator and First Born. Don't waste you're money on off names as above and go with JL's/Rockford/Alpine and truely do it right the first time. $550 for a total set up is not going to get you quality new equipment. It mayget you used but I do not think I would buy used equipment with all the sales these days. Marine grade wire???? Just find a amp install kit from Stinger etc and it will work just fine.

Check out my install pics here. http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8851

Yeah, i've been burned by off name stuff when i was in highschool, haha. Learned my lesson there... bad quality sound. That's why I was curious about Cadence since I hadn't heard of it.

I think I may go with a WetSound amp. I should be able to get a regular one for about $250-270.

Another question about this, i called MarineMax and they want $190 to cut holes in the fiberglass and install the speakers for the bow. Should I do this, or is there somewhere you recommend reading about the proper way to cut holes and do this myself? I don't want to ruin the fiberglass, but $190 almost pays for my amp and I am pretty mechanically inclinde, just not with fiberglass work (though I do have a vette and luckily haven't had to do fiberglass work on it either!! ha)

 

[SeaRay]

I keep reading the do it once and do it right quote above and see all the things you have redone????

:huh:

Then keep reading.....All I had to redo was the sub. And it would have worked just fine for 95% of the people with boat installs. I was just being really particular, once I spent the money on the Wetsounds sub it was worth it to get the sound out of it I wanted.

I was in the same boat as glock 3 months ago, lots of car installs but never a boat or a sub.

My buddy has the JL audio speakers, subs and amps. He spent well over twice the money I have and my system (which includes wakeboard speakers) sounds 95%, if not more, as good as his.

Glock stated he was on a budget and this system was installed on a budget and it sounds awesome.

Yes, marine grade wire. You should use it if your were installing your system say.....in a boat. Copper is highly susceptible to corrosion, especially in a marine environment. Marine wires are tinned to protect the copper and keep them from deteriorating. Both your power and speaker wires should be marine grade.

Do a little research on Cadence amps, they have good reviews. You can't beat them for the money - unless you can get Wetsounds for 50% off.....

 

[SeaRay]

To cut the holes in the fiberglass you can use a laminate trimmer with a circle cutter attachment. It is like a small router.

But, you need the room to get it all in there....

 

[Kurt]

SeaRay, sorry but it must be you're imagination regarding the comparison of Cadence to JL.

 

[papogator24]

I have never heard of Cadence or Wetsounds my whole life. JL are quality speakers and I can definitely speak for them. It has made a very significant difference on my boat.


You can use a dremel with a circular cutter attachment. I saw it that Home Depot carries them. Remember, before you cut a hole, tape the edges with painter's tape to prevent chip damages from cutting.

 

[glocklt4]

I have never heard of Cadence or Wetsounds my whole life. JL are quality speakers and I can definitely speak for them. It has made a very significant difference on my boat.


You can use a dremel with a circular cutter attachment. I saw it that Home Depot carries them. Remember, before you cut a hole, tape the edges with painter's tape to prevent chip damages from cutting.

Wet Sounds from what I've been reading and hearing from people with them are between the polk and JL.

Good idea with dremel. I have the cutting attachment for the job already. And yes, i'll definitely tape everything up. Started reading posts online about fiberglass cutting and getting some good info.