Mid-90's 270 Sundancer Thread

I have a xantrex xpower 5000w inverter. 3 Interstate srm29 batteries wired parallel with 4/0 welding cable. I mounted in cabinet under sink. I have it hard wired to transfer switch previously used for generator. I have an upgraded alternator,and a Balmar Duo-charge to keep starter battery charged.
Runs microwave fine, I can even run my A/C for a little while. (not at same time)
 
I currently have a xantrex pro series constant 1800w - 3600 peak - inverter. It is a modified sine inverter vs. a pure sine inverter. I may reconfigure some of the wiring. Currently the outlets and fridge are on the same house panel switch at 110. I have a switch for the fridge at the helm where it operates off the house battery (along with the water pump), but when I plug it into shore power it converts over to 110. I am going to give its own house switch.
 
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hey sageslinger, I added a heavy duty toggle switch in the electrical panel to turn off the fridge 110 v feed when the outlets are on.
 
Dave M. said:
I thought I would start a thread about this boat. Not sure of the dates, but I think it was introduced in 1994, and lasted until 1997. Then in 98 and 99, it was produced in limited numbers and known as the 'Special Edition', as by then it had been replaced by a wider beam 270. (Dates updated per info from MLauman below.)

I have one, and I believe MLauman, gengiant, and skolbe have one also. It would be interesting to bring together information on the boats and modifications, such as extended swim platforms, stainless props, and so on.

Added per MonacoMike

1994-1997 270 Sundancer and 1998 and 1999 270 Sundancer Special Edition History

The number 270 has been used since the early 80s for various styles of boats manufactured by Sea Ray. The SRV 270 Sundancer moniker was used in 1982 for a 28 foot, 10 foot beam express cruiser. The 270 designation went through various changes in length and beam throughout the 80’s and into the early 90’s.

In 1994, a new hull design was released known as the 270 Sundancer. This design featured oval porthole windows that have become synonymous with the Sea Ray look and two glass hatches. This vessel had a 27’ 4” overall length and with the integral bow pulpit was 29’ 11”. Standard power was a Mercruiser 5.7 BII, with optional 7.4’s, diesels, and 4.3 twins. In 1996 and 1997, the 7.4 with BII became the standard power package. The BIII’s were always an option. In 1995, A/C was offered followed by generator packages in 1996. Each year the options list grew smaller, even while they added options, as most options were moved to standard features by 1997. The base weight grew from 6100lbs in 1994 to 6500lbs in 1997 as the options list grew.

In 1998, the 270 Sundancer became a 9’ 2” beam boat and the package described above became the 270 Sundancer SE. (The 270 now offered a separate dinette in the cabin and is the quickest way to tell it and the SE apart.) This SE boat did undergo some changes. The standard power went back to 5.7 BII with the optional 7.4 BIII also available; diesel and twins were no longer offered. Other changes were the complete loss of one of the glass fore deck hatches, while the VHF radio and many other previously standard features became options again.

The advertised weight remained the same for 1998 but dropped to 6200lbs in 1999, it is thought this was an oversight as the options were removed in 1998 not 1999. At this point, they were using this hull for a “price point boat” as evidenced by the advertising slogan; “Is it too much boat for the money? The competition thinks so”. The 1999 270 SE continued, as in 1998, but now had competition from the new 260 Sundancer as a large trailerable Sea Ray. 1999 was the last year for this hull design.
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Hi , I own a 1994 270 sundancer. To those having similar boats, .. I am looking to replace my windshield portside front. Any one here who knows where to get it ? Or anyone having access to someone who is parting out his 270 ? Appreciate the feedback.
 
duckmnn said:
It is a 10" sub.I enlarged my tabs to 12"x20" with 2" drop fins.Originally they were 12"x11" with no drop fins.I bought same gauge SS from metal shop. Had them bend the drop fins. 85$ total in tabs. After a few test I had friend weld them to existing tabs.I picked up 6mph and 600rpm.I never could get above 4000 rpm at wot.I can not believe the difference they made.I cant wait full tank of fuel and 6 adults.The test was with 2 aadults and 1/2 tank .If you go on Bennets site they give recommended size charts for tabs.I can't figure why Sea Ray under tabs boats.
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Hey duckman, how did the test go?
I am very much curious!

Also, I am planning on doing a full write up on wiring a boat for great sound, with pictures and details. Should I do it in this thread, or start a new one? And if so what should I name the thread to make it easier to find. Only reason why I am doing this, is that I couldn't find anything on stereo install in this boat at all. Just bits and pieces.
 
Arm3nian said:
Hey duckman, how did the test go?
I am very much curious!

Also, I am planning on doing a full write up on wiring a boat for great sound, with pictures and details. Should I do it in this thread, or start a new one? And if so what should I name the thread to make it easier to find. Only reason why I am doing this, is that I couldn't find anything on stereo install in this boat at all. Just bits and pieces.
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I would do it in a new thread as it will get much more readership there. You might post model specifics here if they will help others in the future.

Good Luck!!!

MM
 
Due our river systems.Our lock and dam in Alton has been running wide open. The marina is only holding about 3-4' water.Can not even dip boat yet.The flood waters above us has finally dropped.They should start holding water back next week.So to answer question I have not done a full test with boat loaded.The test i have done or great.One big thing i did notice right off.With the new tabs down at no wake its auto pilot.Water ever direction bow is facing thats way your going no weaving or drifting.i will repost Asap.
 
I have a 1995 270. I have an electrical question. My sump pum float got jammed and it was constantly running. In order to turn off, I thought that I could throw the breaker for the sump that is in the port side of the engine compartment. I could not figure out how to throw the breaker. I ended up cutting the ground and repairing the pump and then re-wiring the thing. Can someone tell me how to throw the breaker so in case I do need to do this, I will know how.

Thanks
 
duckmnn said:
Due our river systems.Our lock and dam in Alton has been running wide open. The marina is only holding about 3-4' water.Can not even dip boat yet.The flood waters above us has finally dropped.They should start holding water back next week.So to answer question I have not done a full test with boat loaded.The test i have done or great.One big thing i did notice right off.With the new tabs down at no wake its auto pilot.Water ever direction bow is facing thats way your going no weaving or drifting.i will repost Asap.
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That is awesome to hear. I was waiting for you to finish your test to see if I needed to go bigger or not, I remember you also saying you installed one on your friends boat? Smaller tabs, but with fins turned down? Would love to hear about those also!
Thank you for getting back to me, hopefully you will get to go boating soon!
 
Arm, Did you start a new thread for the full write up? I can't find it?

Arm3nian said:
Also, I am planning on doing a full write up on wiring a boat for great sound, with pictures and details. Should I do it in this thread, or start a new one? And if so what should I name the thread to make it easier to find. Only reason why I am doing this, is that I couldn't find anything on stereo install in this boat at all. Just bits and pieces.
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I need to replace the stock Clarion speakers in the cockpit. Can anyone recommend a direct drop in replacement? JL 6.5" did not fit because they are too deep.
 
SDA said:
Arm, Did you start a new thread for the full write up? I can't find it?
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I am in the process of buttoning everything up and have taken lots of pictures for the write up.
Should be up soon, I am finishing up the tuning and wiring this tomorrow.

SDA said:
I need to replace the stock Clarion speakers in the cockpit. Can anyone recommend a direct drop in replacement? JL 6.5" did not fit because they are too deep.
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I have used Polk MM651UM 6.5" speakers in 4 different boats thus far. I will not go to anything else. I love them and anyone who hears them do as well.
You will need to undo 2 screws on port side wall to make it fit there and reroute the water houses on starboard, rest goes like butter.
It will be in the write up.
 
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We are planning a trip to VA Beach. I am not the Captain, my husband is, but I want to contribute as well. What items do you suggest we carry on-board in the event we have any types of mechanical failures?
 
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