- Nov 26, 2006
- 7,628
- Boat Info
- 2008 44 Sedan Bridge
- Engines
- Cummins QSC-500's
Straight Drives
John, when installing the impeller would some silicone grease or spray on the rubber vanes help to slip it in?
It's just not that hard.
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John, when installing the impeller would some silicone grease or spray on the rubber vanes help to slip it in?
Great Post Appreciate the pics too! It would seem that the Mercury Designer / Engineer who had the responsibility on this design is not a boater. This is an old design and clearly in need of review. One side is accessible on ours but, the other is in need of a hired monkey. All I’m asking for is a practical solution.
I’m over 380 hours on our pumps and while doing my end of season impeller change I noticed we have the scoring mentioned. We picked up the new pumps and plan on putting them in when boat is wet again!
Very good, I will have to admit, I am going to have to go back and find a few of the bolts you mentioned. I know on your very first post I do not see the bolt closet to the center.
Hi, Good job.
You are right about the deep grooves you have, We as a dealer Should or Would need to recommend that you replace the hole impeller housing, And it would not be to try to make extra money off anyone, It's more for keeping the boat running it's best and to try to prevent the possibility of any air bubbles from getting into the cooling system and at worst case letting the engine run hot, Or what normaly happens is the grooves will create air bubbles, And the air bubbles will give the water pressure sensor a fales reading and that will send the engine into guardian mode and sound a warning horn that you sometimes can not pick up in the scan tool history area, And to find it you need to be running the engine on the water while hooked up to a scan tool to find it in most cases. And of course that would give a dealer a bad name if any of the above happened.:smt089:grin:
But I can't blame you for wanting to get the most life out of the impeller housing as you can, Because of the cost of a newer style brass impeller housing kit is anywhere from $450.00ish up to $650.00ish dollars depending on the model you have.:huh:
Also FYI, I believe you for got one very important step we do for extra precautions, We always will lube the impeller housing up before installing the rubber impeller with either grease or dish soap, ect. We do this so that during engine start up the rubber is not not getting hot and worn out while waiting for the water to get to the impeller.:wink::smt001
Dang John.....Your 8.1's are different from mine. I got stopped dead, because I didn't have long enough of an extension (no wise cracks) for my socket wrench with me. My engines have a traditional tensioner, which was great for getting the belt off, but that was my stopping point as I couldn't get to the bolts to remove the pullys. Hindsight being 20/20, I probably could have removed the pully wheel to get enough clearance, but didn't think about that until my brain thawed out.
I'll have to try again Weds. It was pretty &%$^%$ cold in the bilge today with temperatures at 18 degrees inside the building, and three feet of snow outside. My little shop light did keep it warm enought to prevent the snot from becoming snot-cicles though.
Well the mercruiser service manaul will say do not let them sit for longer then a few hours, So that is a tough call kind of, But then again mercruiser sells a impeller housing kit with the impeller installed already and you know it has been sitting around on a shelf for sometime. Volvo sends a silcone type lube with their impeller that works good. We have used with pretty good success the blue wheel bearing grease that you would use on your trailers wheel bearings for installing the impeller, Or you could use either mercruisers special lube 101, Or 2-4-c with teflon could work. Here is a link to them, Look at numbers 8 & 9. http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show...se.png&inbr=100000&bnbr=1&bdesc=GREASE+&+LUBE We have used all of the above before. Or you could use the KY if you have any extra.:smt043J/K:smt001 So it's up to you, But really you should be ok with anyway you go here. Good luck with it, Stay warm.:smt001I'm going to be doing mine soon, but the boat will not run until April. What type of grease can I use to lubricate the impeller? Is there any thing specific or will any grease do? I don't want to run the risk of the grease reacting with the impeller, or dish soap evaporating before I have a chance to run it.
Excellent post. How often do you change the impellers? Saint Max has 2007 6.2's with about 70 hours on them.
Dang John.....Your 8.1's are different from mine. I got stopped dead, because I didn't have long enough of an extension (no wise cracks) for my socket wrench with me. My engines have a traditional tensioner, which was great for getting the belt off, but that was my stopping point as I couldn't get to the bolts to remove the pullys. Hindsight being 20/20, I probably could have removed the pully wheel to get enough clearance, but didn't think about that until my brain thawed out.
I'll have to try again Weds. It was pretty &%$^%$ cold in the bilge today with temperatures at 18 degrees inside the building, and three feet of snow outside. My little shop light did keep it warm enought to prevent the snot from becoming snot-cicles though.
John,
We are up here in Maryland where the boating season is shorter than yours. How often do you change the impellers down there?
George
How did you get the exhaust hoses loose on your muffler? When I changed my risers last fall it was a bear of a job. I used screw drivers to loosen the hose to the metal riser, if I did that to loosen the hoses to the muffler I would have brocken the fiberglass.