Fuel filter cover removal
- Thread starter RichieRitz
- Start date
RichieRitz
Active Member
No, I meant I’m not putting the cover back on. New filter went on easy, plenty of room for that. Btw I did not try filling it with gas as I’ve seen suggested a few places. I also read you can just turn the ignition on and off several times without starting and you can get enough fuel in the filter so it will start and run ok. So I tried that and it stalled out once but restarted and ran fine after that.
RichieRitz
Active Member
RichieRitz
Active Member
Wow. Makes sense. I’ll have to try that Scott thanks.
RichieRitz
Active Member
Found a source of water intrusion. The horn on the bow has a water protection membrane in the cover and I found it was pretty well shredded/rotted away and wa letting in a lot of water to the anchor compartment. I have two sets or anchor rode in there and that rope still soaking wet many days after last rain or being on the water. I’m not sure if it has a through hull drain or if it eventually makes it way into the bilge. Fwiw. Will be replacing cover or entire horn assembly. Also had a one trim tab with loose screws going into hill. Possibly another water source. Re-bedded and tightened.
I believe your anchor locker hatch drains into the anchor locker?
Either way, yes, there will be a drain. You should easily see the drain on the outside of the hull. It could be clogged. Remove anchor and all line and investigate. Clean the locker.
Trim tabs screw holes won't leak into the boat... just into the transom core and core and start to compromise the transom. It's not clear what "rendered" means, but the correct way is to remove all screws, inspect the wood inside the hole that it's dry and (assuming OK) use a good marine sealant like LifeSeal and reseal every screw hole.
Do the other side, as well.
Either way, yes, there will be a drain. You should easily see the drain on the outside of the hull. It could be clogged. Remove anchor and all line and investigate. Clean the locker.
Trim tabs screw holes won't leak into the boat... just into the transom core and core and start to compromise the transom. It's not clear what "rendered" means, but the correct way is to remove all screws, inspect the wood inside the hole that it's dry and (assuming OK) use a good marine sealant like LifeSeal and reseal every screw hole.
Do the other side, as well.
RichieRitz
Active Member
Rendered is how I spell re-bedded! Thanks all is well. Yes, not talking about the hatch just the locker. It should have its own thruhull drain. We will double check that today. Was thinking if it doesn’t it may make its way to bilge and help explain some of water there. Thanks
Yes, but the rim around the hatch may drain into the locker. Take a look.
RichieRitz
Active Member
Yes it does. They have two drain holes maybe 5 inches up from bottom of anchor locker - I suppose to keep them from getting more easily plugged with mud etc. So that leaves puddle down there. I might try to stack rode higher up where anchor sits in it’s bracket to keep it all a bit drier- those holes drain to these clamshell type vents on each side. So no water from here is going anywhere else.
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RichieRitz
Active Member
Good call on hatch rim. Over a couple rainy days it must let in a decent amount of water.
catfishjon123
New Member
- Mar 16, 2024
- 15
- Boat Info
- 2001 Sea Ray 190 Bow Rider
- Engines
- Mercruiser 5.0 EFI
Thank you Richie, and everyone else who helped out here. I've been scouring the interwebs for this exact issue on my new-to-me 2001 Sea Ray Bowrider 190 with the 5.0 EFI engine. I was thinking I'd have to dremel the bottom part of the housing off. Instead, I will try to loosen the bolts on the housing first, but almost certainly not enough clearance to remove it without detaching the housing. And I'm pretty sure this plastic stuff will not be going back on!
