Eisenglass Cleaning or Replacement?

3

320Bob

Active Member
Nov 2, 2009
1,314
AZ
Boat Info
2012 Chaparral 267 SSX Sold
Engines
Boatless
The one maintenance disappointment with my newly acquired 320 was the condition of the 3 front curtain eisenglass panels. The panels are almost opaque to the point that the dealer said they most likely had to be replaced. He said they typically have to be replaced every 3-5 years if exposed to the sun all the time. I tried some Plexus cleaner/polish on some small sections which helped but still left the area opaque. My question is there any cleaner/treatment that you can recommend to clean them up to a usable level of clarity. From what I have read, eisenglass appears to be a type of vinyl so any aromatic or ketone type solvent is verbotten. What else might I try?

If it turns out that these panels can't be satisfactorially restored, what would be a ballpark cost to replace them or upgrade to stratoglass?
 
sfergson727 said:
...I wonder if they have changed the formulation of the eisenglass over the last few years, as the glass on my older boats always seemed to hold up better.
Click to expand...

I made that point to my CSR sales about the eisenglass on my 1999 Mariah Z280 that I traded in. The panels on it were almost crystal clear and the panels were up for the whole season.:smt009
 
I had a similar issue when I bought my boat. I had my canvas guy just replace the clear only for $75/window.
 
Last winter we took our 5 panels and had the eisenglass replaced - they only charged us $210.00 and they came out great. I don't know why the price was so low maybe because it was out of season in our area:smt038 and they wanted the business.
 
When I bought mine, all panels had to be replaced. Apparently Newport Boats ripped me off, because I think I paid about $1000 total. This was everything though, including the single panel in the canvas covering the stern.

Once I replaced it, I had my canvas guy make covers for the all everything. I've had the boat about 2 years and it looks 90%+ as good as it did day one. I recommend having covers made.
 
320Bob said:
The one maintenance disappointment with my newly acquired 320 was the condition of the 3 front curtain eisenglass panels. The panels are almost opaque to the point that the dealer said they most likely had to be replaced. What else might I try?
Click to expand...

Before you spend money replacing the panels try reconditioning first.

First step is a thorough cleaning, rinse and dry.

The next couple steps are the beginning of restoration. Mequires has two formulas for restoring isinglass. I used both formulas on all my panels and I used my rotary buffer (low speed, foam waffle pad, a little finess) to work the cloud and scratches out. Lay and clamp the isinglass panels flat on cotton towels and work the Mequires restore formula with the buffer. This is a "multiple light passes" process. Too heavy on the glass creates too much heat and will permanently damage the isinglass. You might try a random orbital but I doubt it will do much based on your condition description. Finish, by hand, using the Mequires polish formula and a microfiber cloth.

The last step, that is repeated for ever, is using cleaners specifically designed for your isinglass. I am using PLEXUS (available at West Marine). These formulas have additives to protect the plastic from all the acids in bug guts, bird turds, environmental fall out and even some UV protection. For even longer life for your isinglass use 303 Aerospace Protectant. The additional UV protection is what exposed isinglass needs the most.
 
HIFI,
Thanks for your advice. I already have some Plexus but where can you get the 303 protectorant? Also, what do you use specifically to wash the panels before applying the cleaner etc.?:thumbsup:
 
Gentlemen - Do not replace the Eisenglass with Eisenglass. Go with 30mm Strataglass. It costs more, but pays for itself in longevity. Additionally, in the mean time, you'll have a much better outlook on life, and that's what this lifestyle is all about.

If you do go with Strata, just keep the oils, lotions, sunscreens... off of it. After 2 years, I have one smudge.
 
I took my panels out on the dock and used a blank canvas that came with the boat. When I sold it the panels looked like, I hardly ever used them.I am looking to have a blank canvas panel made for my 310, to use when I don't need the glass. I don't know if Great Lakes sells them or not, but it's worth the investment to save the glass.
 
I went to Chicago Sea Ray yesterday with my orbital buffers along with Meguiar's #10 and #17 plus some boat soap to see if I could restore the Eisenglass to a reasonable level of clarity. I took the center curtain off and worked on it for more than an hour with unsatisfactory results. It appears that the bottom of the panel closest to the windshield was brownish with a rough surface. I suspect that it was the casualty of some sort of photo-chemical degradation that essentially etched the surface beyond redemption. Matt the Service Manager there told me once the glass turns yellow or brown it's toast and no amount of polishing or cleaning will bring it back.

He said he recently replaced eisenglass with strataglass for a customer for $1,300 but he thought the shop might offer a discount to have it done over the winter due to less business. I told him to get me a price and I'll decide whether to do it while the boat is in heated storage or wait until Spring.
 
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Scott,
Matt the Service Manager at CSR specifically mention problems with eisenglass deterioration on Lake Michigan due to air pollution. It appears that you are one of those folks. Another problem area he cited were lakes or rivers close to farms who spray chemical fertilizers that get airborne.
 
Yea, air pollution and acid rain will rapidly age the glass. I have strata glass on my boat and I also use Plexus during the season maybe twice a month and I still get hair line scrathes. This week I tried merquiars #10/17 I didnt see any differents. IMHO I wouldnt use 303 on glass but I use it on my seats.
 
My glass was about 5 years old and very opaque. I took the opportunity to have a local guy that was well recommended change all of mine out and took the opportunity to have u-zips put in. Best mod I ever did. He told me there has been some quality issues with strata-glass of late. I can't confirm that and he used 20 mil clear something but I'm ashamed to say I don't know the specific material. Loving it so far. Think about the u-zips since if you're replacing panes, now's the time if you're going to do it.
 
My close friend just had their 460 done with ploycarbonate and its just like looking through glass. It is actually finishing today and I am about to take the boat from New Buffalo to B&E in about 45 minutes. Ill try to snap some pics to show how clear it is.

Andy from Ship Shape canvas did the whole boat for VERY cheap in my eyes and the quality just as good as the guys who quoted twice as much. I am having him do the aft deck of my boat this spring with the poly and make a bridge cover so I don't always need to remove all my canvas on the bridge.
 
Note: Polycarb - cannot be rolled up. If I had it to do over, as I was telling my wife this morning, I would have done the back, center of the camper in polycarb just like all of the front windows. The back center is too big to roll up anyway, so I would lift it in an secure it to the inside top of the camper like I do the front center piece.

It would be just flexible enough to clear the back seat top.
 
Wrong boat, the boat I brought there is still in water at the fuel dock. Its a soft top 460, named Phantom, I actually just got home from delivering it there. That 460 that was there is also from New Buffalo though.

Andy with Ship Shape Canvas, 269-325-2525 and let him know Ray Bock told you to call. He is going to be down there tomorrow doing some finishing touches if you wanted to talk to him.
 
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