Crash valves or intake diverter valves on the seacocks

That's a great idea that looks very effective and at a very low cost. I'll be getting a big tub of it before Spring!:smt038
 
I'm curious to what the performance of the stuff is a few feet below the waterline. The examples in the video are near the surface based on the flow rate/height of the water boiling up...

I'm not totally doubting the stuff but after watching that video... I became skeptical when they recommended putting it on split hoses... and showed a hose with what looked like a 3-4 inch split and water dribbling out. My raw water hoses under my boat have an extreme amount of pressure in them after the water pumps and would blow that stuff right out... That's what what self vulcanizing tape (like rescuetape.com) is for...

So they had me until the hose demonstration... now I'm wondering if it's snake oil for anything other than a canoe or speed boat leaking.

Let's go punch a hole in a Bayliner and test it out.
 
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Looks like a wax for a toilet wax ring...

I believe it would work exactly the same as the wax in the video, its sticky stuff.
 
I don't think it would work on high pressure hoses after the water pump either. If you did have a hose go after the water pump the rescue tape would definitely be the way to go.

To me it seems like a good quick solution for thru hull fittings or hull damage that isn’t under a lot of pressure.

Reading about the CG using a saw to size a wooden plug, I could just picture me in that scenario with the wife and kids screaming, not pretty.
 
I'm curious to what the performance of the stuff is a few feet below the waterline. The examples in the video are near the surface based on the flow rate/height of the water boiling up...

I'm not totally doubting the stuff but after watching that video... I became skeptical when they recommended putting it on split hoses... and showed a hose with what looked like a 3-4 inch split and water dribbling out. My raw water hoses under my boat have an extreme amount of pressure in them after the water pumps and would blow that stuff right out... That's what what self vulcanizing tape (like rescuetape.com) is for...

So they had me until the hose demonstration... now I'm wondering if it's snake oil for anything other than a canoe or speed boat leaking.

Let's go punch a hole in a Bayliner and test it out.

My thought, exactly. I didn't watch the video, but just looking at the pictures it appeared those leaks could be stopped with light hand pressure.

I'm not saying the product is bad - I have no experience with it.

It certainly can't hurt to have a jug of this stuff, I just wouldn't rely on it to be your "savior".

Now, "Rescue Tape"? I do make sure to have that stuff on board!
 
Jack, thanks for good find. I would agree that from what I'm seen in the video the first impression is that this would work great for low pressure, at least we don't see anything where the water shoots up in the air from pressure where they plug it with this product. However, it's a great addition to the toolbox. I carry a tube of underwater epoxy (I think I got in WM). It looks similar but thiker product. So, I would guess that underwater epoxy could do a little better job.
 
Here's the stuff I carry on board for working, low-pressure repairs: PC Marine: http://www.pcepoxy.com/our-products/putty-epoxies/putty-epoxies.php

I'm sure there are other good products, too.

I have absolutely no affiliation with him, but just as a side note... the owner is a nice guy - a real down-to-earth kind of guy, too. The product is also made in the USA.

EDIT: I misstated above... Technically, I do have an "affiliation" as it's one of the products we carry in the store. But that's not why I mention them. I'm linking to their site as I personally have used their products many, many times.
 
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In addition to the indefinite shelf life Jack mentioned above, the response I received said to keep the storage temperature less than 140 degrees Fahrenheit.
 
I also carry rescue tape and agree that this putty does not look like a "fix all". I still think it's worth having onboard for the cheap price.
 
I always keep "rescue tape" or what is marketed here as "Magic Wrap" on the boat. It came in handy when I melted one of my Tides Prop Shaft Seals. After docking and hearing the water running in to the E/R, seeing the 3 bilge pumps running, and hearing the high level bilge alarm - I found the leak and started to wrap multiple revolutions of tape around the shaft near the leak. The build up of tape eventually stopped the leak.:smt089

For this situation, the putty like product would have been faster and easier to apply to the prop shaft leak.:thumbsup:

I'll still keep the tape for higher pressure situations like hoses. (hope it never happens:smt009) In the video of the putty stoping the leak from a split hose, I believe they were demonstrating how to STOP the water from sinking the boat while you're dead in the water - NOT to complete a quick fix to get you up and running to get back to your dock. If the hose was a water supply hose, the putty would most likely just be blown out once the pump was started!:smt009
 
In this whole discussion there is an underlying assumption that the electrical system has not been compromised. On a gas boat no electricity means no ignition system or engine computer and then engine stops running. That got me thinking about what the implication would be for a diesel boat. I know on the 'classic' diesel engine there is no need for electricity once its running, but on the designs used on current Sea Rays, is electricity as critical as a gas engine because of electrically powered support systems?

Henry
 
I also carry rescue tape and agree that this putty does not look like a "fix all". I still think it's worth having onboard for the cheap price.

I don't think that it was represented as a "fix-all". I think that it is meant to be a temporary fix in an emergency until permanent repairs can be made back at the marina.:huh: Definitely a must safety item in everyone's repair kit!
 

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