Compound & Wax

C

CSMady

New Member
Sep 13, 2014
49
On local Rivers & lakes
Boat Info
290 Sundancer 2007
Engines
(2) 4.3L Mercruisers w/ Bravo III Outdrives dual props
Hello fellow boaters,

I am looking for the best quality compound and wax to use on my 2007 290 Sea Ray. I have had the boat for ~ 2 years and the paint on the boat has a dull look to it. I am not sure when or if the boat has ever been waxed. The color of my boat is a taupe color. I am assuming a low speed orbital buffer is the right piece of equipment to use for this project. Any information would be helpful.

CSMady
 
Your boat is not painted, it is gelcoat. It can be brought back.
Keep in mind, wax will not make it shine, proper preparation will make it shine and wax will keep it shining.
Depending on how bad it is, you need either a dual action buffer, or a rotary buffer. The cheap ones that use the tie on bonnets will not work for this. In either case, a dedicated compound is step one, I prefer 3m and marine 31 compounds. Once buffed shiny, a top coat of wax is needed. Here I prefer marine 31, but there are plenty of good options.

A good buffer is the secret here to make the job go smoothly.
 
paulswagelock,

I am vey much appreciative of this information that you have recommended. I have gotten estimates of about $1250 which includes the cost of lifting out of the water. I am a Do-it-yourself kind of person, so I am going to see how good of a job that I can do first.

I am not sure with gelcoats, but with cars if you use a rotary type buffers you can put swirls in the paint job if you are not careful. I believe that I will look into purchasing a quality dual action buffer.

Thank,

CSMady
 
Regarding a rotary buffer, yes you can put ghost swirls in gelcoat. Unlike car paint, it is unlikely you could ever burn through it though.

i suggest a Griot's Garage dual action buffer, about $140, lake country 6.5" Yellow heavy foam cutting pads, then marine31 hd buffing compound followed by their hd cleaner wax using a lake country green foam pad.

all supplies available at autogeek . Net

for $200 you could try it yourself. Can't ruin anything.....
 
the advice here is good but I would add. Take the boat out of the water and wet sand the entire outside first with 2500 grit, this will remove the oxidation and will be better prepared for the variable speed polisher, followed by foam pad orbital machine waxing. My 1997 takes me and a hired hand about four days of three or four hours per day in the spring to do it...but people are still amazed when I tell them its a 1997. To have a shop do it this way will cost about $2500 on a 30 footer but if you cannot do it yourself it will be the best 2500 you ever spent if looking like new is important to you. Sanding first is the key to the finish looking like a million bucks.
 
Yes, I was looking at the 10 top buffers sold on line: Porter cable, Meguire's, Dewalt, Griot's, etc. and all the Pros/Cons of each. I was leaning towards the Dewalt only because I own other equipment from that manufacture, but it is almost double the cost of the one you have mentioned. I may take your advice for if I do not get the look that I am expecting, I will not be out much money.

Thank you for the additional info.

CSMady
 
pvan,

Wow! and I just thought $45ft. was steep. I actually just put in a lift, so my plan is to work one side from my finger pier that allows me to be only about two feet from the side of my boat to be compounded/waxed. I plan to just do a small section in the aft to see how good of a job that I can do without taking to a boatyard. I will definitely use your advice with using the 2500 grit water sand paper, first.

Thanks,'


CSMady
 
For some reason im not a big advocate of the sandpaper. My 88 was severely oxidized. I used a variable speed buffer from HF i for for 40 bucks and 3m compound and with minimal effort before a weekend away i got amazing results.

Before

c5a268eba8cbbe0a6f862266c1b56fba.jpg


After

26a0616ac05b55664a3908f19dbb64b1.jpg


Again very minimal effort

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
 
BurgundyS24,

I am hoping that I do not have to use sandpaper, for I have a good bit of surface area to cover once you get towards the bow of the boat. Maybe, I will do a small section with sand paper and without and see if their is a noticeable difference to justify using water sandpaper on the entire boat. Thanks for the advice and pics.

CSMady
 
CSMady said:
BurgundyS24,

I am hoping that I do not have to use sandpaper, for I have a good bit of surface area to cover once you get towards the bow of the boat. Maybe, I will do a small section with sand paper and without and see if their is a noticeable difference to justify using water sandpaper on the entire boat. Thanks for the advice and pics.

CSMady
Click to expand...
I had a pro come out and show me the difference with and without paper. Looked better without for some reason

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I use Presta products and a rotary buffer now. I usually only have to use their Ultra Polish with a polishing wool pad to get off the light oxidation I get over the year, and give it a great shine. But its gotta be a rotary buffer. I first tried a random orbital (being afraid of a rotary at the time) but could only get it to really just smear stuff around (which is why I find its only useful purpose is to apply wax).
 
Hey no sweat off my shine if some others do not want to wet sand before using a rotary buffer. The only thing wet sanding with 2500 does is remove dirt, oxidation, and flattens the surface so the machine polishing pad will do its job more effectively.
The result will be a boat with a much higher gloss shine.
I will say if you don't know how hire someone who does the results speak for themselves.
 
BurgundyS24 said:
I had a pro come out and show me the difference with and without paper. Looked better without for some reason

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Click to expand...

I also use Presta products.I usually start with super cut and usually cut it twice and then move on with gel coat. Then polish a couple of times and then load up on wax!! Always looking good. I also use nothing but makita buffers lighter and easy start up. Small things that you notice when you spend the spring buffing. I also have a dealt horrible buffer. Just my 2 cents
 
I've never heard of presta but maybe I'll try. I use 3m products. Mr. Topgun, careful with that much cutting as remember your thinning the gel coat with cutting and eventually will burn through.
 
True that! Supercut is for fairly extreme cases, when your gelcoat has turned chalky. After the first couple of years I needed to cut to get to a good baseline, now I use the gelcoat compound and only pull out the Supercut for special spots.
 
All fellow boaters,

I purchased the Dewalt DWTDWP849X variable speed dual action polisher after watching the videos and reading the reviews, plus I own other Dewalt power equipment. I believe I am going to start with the 3M products and pads suggested. I will let you all know how everything works out after I try a section on my boat.

Thanks for all the great information.

CSMady
 
Shurhold product have been working great for me. Buffmagic is a good product. I just bought a gallon of Buff Liquid on ebay for $15 plus shipping. Received it and can't see anything wrong with it. Normally about $70 a gallon. Follow up with the pro polish.
 
Here's what I have been doing it was mostly written by Todd aka Nehalennia I put it in a word document there are many posts on it.


Buffers

Makita 9227C 7” Variable Speed Polisher
Porter Cable 7424XP 6” Variable Speed Orbital Polisher

Phase one: Cleaning
Start with a stiff deck brush and a strong Simple Green solution. Scrub your deck thoroughly. For the sides and smooth areas of the boat, use a softer brush but thoroughly clean. Pressure wash if possible, using care around caulked areas.
The Simple Green will strip any old waxes and built up gunk. In tough spots use Spray Nine and a stiff dishwashing brush by hand.

Phase two: Rough compounding
I use the Makita and a clean wool pad and 3M Super Duty Compound. Obviously with this product, it's the most aggressive so care is needed not to stay in one area too long. Be in control of your buffer and do one area at a time.

Phase three: Intermediate compounding
Use your Porter Cable or random orbital with a terry bonnet to remove. Keep that terry bonnet dedicated to this product's removal.

I use to really like Meguiar's #67 for the intermediate compounding, but have found 3M Finesse it II, to yield a shinier base. So the only thing with this product is that it doesn't seem to be as forgiving as the Meguiar's #67, so treat it like the Super duty compound, keep it moving.
AGAIN:Use your Porter Cable or random orbital with a terry bonnet to remove. Keep this terry bonnet dedicated to this product's removal.

Phase four: Polish
Switch over now to your Porter Cable, Shurholds or Meguiar's random orbitals. Don't try and get decent results with the larger 10" WEN or the like cheap random orbitals, you won't be as satisfied.
I use the lighter pads from http://properboatcare.com/ or http://www.autogeek.net/boatandrv.html designed for polishing.
Use Starbrite Polish with PTEF and work in the polish covering your workable area and go over and back over until you see the haze.
AGAIN:Use your Porter Cable or random orbital with a terry bonnet to remove. Keep this terry bonnet dedicated to this product's removal.

After I'm done I soak all the bonnets & pads in dish soap for a couple hours then wash on delicate cycle with bonnets & pads in a pillow case.
 
Last edited:
For clarification, "polish" often means a very, very mild compound that does the final smoothing and removal of fine scratches. Phase Four above could also be termed "Sealer". Starbrite Polish with PTFE is poorly named (in my opinion) to include the word "polish". It is not a polish but is rather a final sealer, as are products labeled "waxes". These products generally do not make any improvement to the gelcoat surface. They seal it up to protect it from weather and sun.
 
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