????? collinite, Zaino, Leverage, Meguariers, Starbrite, 3m ???????

andy k

andy k

Active Member
Feb 7, 2009
505
Lake Erie
Boat Info
40.3
Engines
Yanmar
I just purchased a 260 DA, the boat has very heavy oxidation and will need a lot of work. I have a rotary buffer and a porter cable. I would like to know what is the BEST buffing compound to use for the oxidation. I would also like to know what the best wax, polish, etc. I want the BEST I do not care if it takes more elbow greese. I am looking for the wax to last very long and look good. I know there are so many brand and products out there, I have allways used Meguariers and collnite products. Price and Elbow Greese are not factors. I just want something that looks good and is long lasting.

Thank you,

Andy K
 
Zaino won't get the heavy oxidation off, but once you get it off, will protect it better than anything else I've seen.
 
for the compounding I was thinking of Leverage, Meguariers or 3m. Which Zaino product works good for marine use?
 
I've been using Z2Pro for 10 yrs to keep my boats (and car/truck) shining like new.(This is what Sal @Zaino recommended I use)
 
I've always used Starbrite polish with a DA polisher and had very good results, try to wait a week before the second application, it will draw out light oxidation. This year I tried the Collinite cleaner with the Porter cable machine and was very disappointed, wasted a whole day. Went over it the next day with Starbrite and all is good.
 
Dasch Boat said:
I've always used Starbrite polish with a DA polisher and had very good results, try to wait a week before the second application, it will draw out light oxidation. This year I tried the Collinite cleaner with the Porter cable machine and was very disappointed, wasted a whole day. Went over it the next day with Starbrite and all is good.
Click to expand...

On the upper deck....i'll use the starbrite by hand...

its those little cracks and crevice's where there is dirt , I think i can do it more thoroughly by hand...
 
collinite's fleetwax (wax only) is the longest lasting wax I have ever used. Mequire's oxidation remover is pretty highly recommended......Honestly though......Do a search and there is hours of reading material
 
I use

3M PRODUCTS
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Imperial Compound & Finishing Material to remove oxidation. This is a fast cut material. I use it with a wool pad, Makita rotary buffer, turning at 2500 RPM.

It's not cheap, but it works fast.

Then polish or wax with whatever you find lasts the longest.
 
Another "best" wax thread......oh boy. To me it's not that simlple as many of the waxes and polishes are completly differrent from one another and have different applications. Read away.

I use Meguiars or 3m for compounding
Meguiars, 3m or Starbrite for wax, currently with Meguiars
Leverage spray polish for touchup
 
I would consider a three step process with the “heavy oxidation” job you describe.

Using a cutting compound to remove oxidation is one step. Polishing that new finish is next followed by your wax or synthetic protection.

In a “no expense/effort spared finish” moving from a compounded surface to a wax finish would be a shortcut. Compounds remove the oxidation and surface contaminates. Those byproducts are picked up in the pads and transfer. That transfer is going to limit optical clarity. I see that as an equivalent to finishing with dirty rags.

Once oxidation and surface contaminates are removed I would then polish the surface with your favorite product to the most perfect surface finish that you can achieve.

The final step would be your wax or synthetic product of choice.

Here is what I like for the whole job:

Meguires #49 Diminishing Value Compound for step one. Diminishing value cutting compounds can make you look like a pro. They cut greatest with the first turns of the rotary and the cutting decreases as the product is worked on the surface. This will lead to a more even surface as you do each small section throughout the job. I use a wool cutting pad on a rotary.

I like 3M Finesse-it II for step two. I have always polished white gel with Finesse-it II. I use a foam polishing pad on a rotary. Very easy to work with and when done this really is your final finish. This is your chance to even out much of the fine cuts your compound made. Another reason to use diminishing value compound . . . Less overtime in the polishing step.

My final step is Zaino. I too have used Zaino for 10 years with great success. The most Outstanding results with Zaino can only come with a well prepared surface (step one and two) and following the directions for the Zaino product selected. I use Zaino ZFX with Zaino 3. This is a “by hand” job but is the easiest on and off by hand product. I like many of the synthetic products more so than the wax products. They will certainly last longer than a true wax. Zaino has UV protection as well . . . I like that. Be sure to wash boat with Dawn Dishwashing soap and a super rinse before applying Zaino. This is outlined in the directions from Zaino.

Good luck with your project.
 
I use the 3m polishing compound in the black and purple bottle and the Collinite Fleet Wax. I love that wax, goes on so easy and buffs out real nice.
 
I've tried various products over the years (Meguires 44 heavy oxidation remover, polyglow, nauticle ease, and recently Leverage) and was about to surrender.

After searching posts on CSR, I decided to give it one more try with either the 3M Imerial Compound then 3M xtra cut compound followed by 3M glaze and finally wax... ($$wow$$):wow: or...

Meguiars 67 - then wax.

Meguiars was half the price than 3M's Imperial compound alone and if it worked it would be ready for the final wax since it contains polish along with a "diminishing value" cutting compound.:thumbsup:

I decided to try Meguiars 67 and if that didn't work (with a wool cutting pad) to restore the shine to my oxidized deck, I'd bite the bullet and go with 3M knowing if it failed - I'd reluctantly call in the pro's!:smt013

Well, Meguires 67 has really impressed me. It has really kicked the oxidation quite well just on the first attempt. I could even smell the gelcoat during the first spins of the wheel then as I reduced pressure and the RPM's increased the cutter seemed to give way to polish - leaving an actual SHINY finish where before it was CHALK. I may give it another go before waxing just to get even more of that "wet ice" look.:smt038

If anything, this proves that if you keep getting advise and trying various methods, you will eventually have success.:thumbsup:
 
So, this past weekend I was doing my semi-annual Zaino process, and went to sit down and take a phone call that had come in. (I was laying on my creeper on the garage floor under the boat when the call came in). As I'm sitting there talking on the phone, I noticed these 2 cloudy spots in the underside of the chine in the painted gelcoat finish.. OMG - somehow at some point in the past, these two spots had been missed and oxidation had set in.:smt089:huh::wow: The horror!
(excuse the cell phone quality pic)
IMG00184-20100605-1502.jpg


So, this morning, I put a little menzerna intensive polish on a microfiber rag, and after a little bit of Elbow Grease, it came off... now to put the Zaino back on it, and I'll be done.
 
There, now I finished wiping off the Zaino. Here's a couple pics of my results
IMG_2216.jpg

IMG_2217.jpg

IMG_2215.jpg
 
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