58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread

Correct Carter - they did my boards and screens at the same time.
Mike Smith is the owner and very helpful guiding you through the removal and how to get the work done. 754-251-0123
I recall he did yours for a fairly reasonable price - now its flat rate at $2200 for each display.
 
Chris-

Mine has done that “spinning” before, but usually working the key up and down will allow it to grab.

We’ve been at the Yacht Club now for three years and it’s fairly secure, and since we leave the boat in the water over the winter, I leave the door unlocked in case they have to get in and start the generator in a freeze/shore power loss situation

A couple of years ago, when I checked with Taylormade, they wanted $3600 for the lock set and didn’t have any available anyway. When Taylormade told me $3600 – I told him I don’t need the whole door just the lock set! LOL!

I’m tied up this morning, but I’ll look in my records and see if my part number that I had for the Lock said is the same as yours.

I would think you could just remove the whole thing, and take it to locksmith and have him rebuild it – I would at least hope that!
the entire lock set is not nearly that costly - i spoke with Taylor Made a few years ago and they wanted $150.00 for one key blank for the lock - i found the identical blank key for $8.00 at at locksmith shop
 
the entire lock set is not nearly that costly - i spoke with Taylor Made a few years ago and they wanted $150.00 for one key blank for the lock - i found the identical blank key for $8.00 at at locksmith shop

Yes, we've tracked down the U.S. distributor for Schwepper -- The Brass Works, Inc -- and they've been very responsive. The lock cylinder can sometimes (often?) be repaired, for example, and they do that kind of work... or they can sell individual replacement parts.

I haven't followed up with them to get ours squared away -- because we're traveling -- but once we get home I'll be getting on with that.

A tidbit they've passed on: non-Schwepper blanks can sometimes cause damage to the cylinder. Something to do with the different shape to the leading edge(s) of the blank.

-Chris
 
Yes, we've tracked down the U.S. distributor for Schwepper -- The Brass Works, Inc -- and they've been very responsive. The lock cylinder can sometimes (often?) be repaired, for example, and they do that kind of work... or they can sell individual replacement parts.

I haven't followed up with them to get ours squared away -- because we're traveling -- but once we get home I'll be getting on with that.

A tidbit they've passed on: non-Schwepper blanks can sometimes cause damage to the cylinder. Something to do with the different shape to the leading edge(s) of the blank.

-Chris
Chris - did you use the Taylormade P/N when dealing with Schwepper?
 
Yes, we've tracked down the U.S. distributor for Schwepper -- The Brass Works, Inc -- and they've been very responsive. The lock cylinder can sometimes (often?) be repaired, for example, and they do that kind of work... or they can sell individual replacement parts.

I haven't followed up with them to get ours squared away -- because we're traveling -- but once we get home I'll be getting on with that.

A tidbit they've passed on: non-Schwepper blanks can sometimes cause damage to the cylinder. Something to do with the different shape to the leading edge(s) of the blank.

-Chris
Thanks Chris good to know -
 
Chris - did you use the Taylormade P/N when dealing with Schwepper?

Sorta. When you go on The Brass Works Inc site, they have the Schwepper catalog... and looking through the various segments helped me sorta home in on the probable mortise latch (for cylinder) we have, and the probable locking cylinder.

The last bit comes down to actual measurements, and with the parts in place measurements aren't perfect. I reckon to take the cylinder out to do proper measurements before ordering anything. Or once I get the measurements, they may advise repair would be sufficient. A couple weeks before we're home and I have time to mess with it...

-Chris
 
Sorta. When you go on The Brass Works Inc site, they have the Schwepper catalog... and looking through the various segments helped me sorta home in on the probable mortise latch (for cylinder) we have, and the probable locking cylinder.

The last bit comes down to actual measurements, and with the parts in place measurements aren't perfect. I reckon to take the cylinder out to do proper measurements before ordering anything. Or once I get the measurements, they may advise repair would be sufficient. A couple weeks before we're home and I have time to mess with it...

-Chris
Chris - what Schweppes P/N best fits our lock?
 
I have a couple questions I hope to get answered.
First, i’ve asked multiple people. When is the best time to check the engine oil to get the most accurate read? I’ve heard things from cold, warm, run then let’s sit 20 minutes. I know checking it right after the engine was run doesn’t give oil time enough to drain to the pan.

Secondly, my starboard MAN MMSD monitor is in metric. I’m not sure how it got that way but I don’t have the manual on me and I can’t figure out how to change it back to standard. Does anybody know the process?

Thanks!
 
MAN says check the oil 20 mins after shutdown.

Your battery is dead in that display. I’m not near the boat, and I can’t recall how to change it back, but it is simple. But until you get the display’s battery changed, you will have to do it each startup.

Susan suggested that change the other one and run the both in metric - good idea!

Sea-Tronics will rehab your display for $2200.
 
MAN says check the oil 20 mins after shutdown.

Your battery is dead in that display. I’m not near the boat, and I can’t recall how to change it back, but it is simple. But until you get the display’s battery changed, you will have to do it each startup.

Susan suggested that change the other one and run the both in metric - good idea!

Sea-Tronics will rehab your display for $2200.
Changing the display battery easy? The manual is on the boat so I assume it’s in there on how to change the battery. I appreciate the help!
 
Changing the display battery easy? The manual is on the boat so I assume it’s in there on how to change the battery. I appreciate the help!
Ken is correct.

And if you take the display out to be repaired, DO NOT disconnect the power supply cable from the display - about 3 feet up the power supply cable you’ll find two spade connectors - disconnect there. Where the power supply cable enters the display it is soldered inside there to the board. If you unscrew the bolt that’s around the power cable on the display, thinking you can remove it, you will do damage.
 
Ken is correct.

And if you take the display out to be repaired, DO NOT disconnect the power supply cable from the display - about 3 feet up the power supply cable you’ll find two spade connectors - disconnect there. Where the power supply cable enters the display it soldered inside there to the board. If you unscrew the bolt that’s around the power cable on the display, thinking you can remove it, you will do damage.
Great information, thank you. Sea Tronics the only option?
 
Great information, thank you. Sea Tronics the only option?
Seems like it is. Someone posted a few months ago on this thread that they used somebody else and they weren’t happy at all.

Sea-Tronics used to do “à la cart“ service - if you just wanted your battery replaced, they would do that. Now they’ve gone to complete refurbishment. A year after my battery went out, both the LCD displays failed and got very foggy. so they’re going to fix everything for $2200 each.
 
Seems like it is. Someone posted a few months ago on this thread that they used somebody else and they weren’t happy at all.

Sea-Tronics used to do “à la cart“ service - if you just wanted your battery replaced, they would do that. Now they’ve gone to complete refurbishment. A year after my battery went out, both the LCD displays failed and got very foggy. so they’re going to fix everything for $2200 each.
Thank you!
 

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