480 DB Owners Club

[CLC3]

While an entirely different model than the ones for a 480, I have had great experience with the Vitrifrigo brand. When I purchased a 1997 370 DA in 2013, I replaced the failed Norcold (aka Nevercold) with a dual voltage Vitrifrigo. It ran flawlessly for the 7 years I had it (bought the 480 last year). One of the things I liked about the Vitrifrigo was the “remote” compressor. It was outside of the actual fridge “box” rendering more internal space and, I expect, better efficiency. If/when I replace my 480’s SubZeros, I’d definitely consider Vitrifrigos.

 

[ttmott]

While an entirely different model than the ones for a 480, I have had great experience with the Vitrifrigo brand. When I purchased a 1997 370 DA in 2013, I replaced the failed Norcold (aka Nevercold) with a dual voltage Vitrifrigo. It ran flawlessly for the 7 years I had it (bought the 480 last year). One of the things I liked about the Vitrifrigo was the “remote” compressor. It was outside of the actual fridge “box” rendering more internal space and, I expect, better efficiency. If/when I replace my 480’s SubZeros, I’d definitely consider Vitrifrigos.

I just ordered two Vitrifrigo DW180AIXD4-DF multi-setting dual drawer units to replace the Sub Zero units. 2 1/2 month lead time so if going Vitrifrigo or any other for that matter get them ordered.....

 

[mquiet]

Well, just blow another oberdorfer AC impeller c
Housing. These dang things develop a hole every 2-3 years. POS, but I need 2000g0m and not worth putting another hole in the boat.

 

[ttmott]

Well, just blow another oberdorfer AC impeller c
Housing. These dang things develop a hole every 2-3 years. POS, but I need 2000g0m and not worth putting another hole in the boat.

No..... Is that pump bronze housing connected to the bonding system? I've never had a single problem.

 

[mquiet]

No..... Is that pump bronze housing connected to the bonding system? I've never has a single problem.
View attachment 119630

TT, you bring up a rally good question. since this pump is on the AC side and has a ground, wouldn't that also bond it, or would that not interfere? The reason I ask is I don't think it is bonded and we were debating it. The thru hull and the strainer are both bonded, but not the pump. The AC units are also not bonded, so at what point in the system does bonding occur and not occur. Thanks for your feedback.

 

[ttmott]

TT, you bring up a rally good question. since this pump is on the AC side and has a ground, wouldn't that also bond it, or would that not interfere? The reason I ask is I don't think it is bonded and we were debating it. The thru hull and the strainer are both bonded, but not the pump. The AC units are also not bonded, so at what point in the system does bonding occur and not occur. Thanks for your feedback.

They (bonding/grounding) are different but yes, they do end up tying together, usually from the motor to AC ground buss then to the main DC ground buss and then to the bonding system and finally the anode. Critical to the bonding system is the need for low resistance between the item being protected and the anode on the back of the boat. 1 ohm or less is required. I would doubt that the 16 gauge wire for the motor ground and then its routing all through the grounding/bonding system provides that ultra-low resistance. Without that low bonding resistance, the galvanic current will take to the water flowing through the pump. Every metallic item on the boat that is in contact with raw water must be bonded to the hull anode or have separate anode protection. Hand rails, windlass, metal superstructure, water heater, exhaust tubing included. Things not bonded usually for cost reasons are hatches, hinges, latches and the like but usually these things are stainless steel or coated to get somewhat of a service life.
One thing to check is if that pump motor is faulting current to the ground. Take the ground wire off the motor and measure voltage between the motor case and the wire; it should be 0 volts; if not 0 volts then there is a fault in the motor windings and not only a problem with the motor but a contributor to the corrosion issue.

 

[ttmott]

As a retrospect, I read several days ago where a member replaced a hatch due to corrosion on the aluminum frame - If I spent the money replacing something like that I'd also take the effort to get a bonding wire routed and connected to it. A continuing corrosion issue on that expensive hatch would be avoided.

 

[Brent Nutting]

Wondering if anyone can confirm the part number for the door wall trucks on a 2002 480DB? I have one that is slightly bent and would like to replace all 4 of the trucks while the door is off.
TIA.

 

[Pensacola Dan]

Anyone have any experience with Sea-Fire relays? My generator will not shut off when testing the fire suppression system. It shuts down the engines and blowers, but it’s supposed to also shut down the generator if running. The Sea-Fire relay is located behind the main panel in the salon and has a white/red jumper on the generator terminals. When I removed the jumper, the generator will not start. Do I have a bad relay or is it wired improperly? I have a 2000 480 with 3196s and a Westerbeke 10.

 

[rlynch03]

Wondering if anyone can confirm the part number for the door wall trucks on a 2002 480DB? I have one that is slightly bent and would like to replace all 4 of the trucks while the door is off.
TIA.

I have a 2007 52DB but I am not sure if we have the same door. I understand these trucks work for my boat. Do you have a door made by Taylor Made?

eBay - (DR-266) P.E. / Delmar Tandem Roller for Sliding Glass Doors

 

[ttmott]

Anyone have any experience with Sea-Fire relays? My generator will not shut off when testing the fire suppression system. It shuts down the engines and blowers, but it’s supposed to also shut down the generator if running. The Sea-Fire relay is located behind the main panel in the salon and has a white/red jumper on the generator terminals. When I removed the jumper, the generator will not start. Do I have a bad relay or is it wired improperly? I have a 2000 480 with 3196s and a Westerbeke 10.View attachment 121018

First it appears to be OEM wiring and crimps but not normally what we see. Like you, I agree the engine interrupt does not shut down the generator as wired in this picture (the jumper).
For Westerbeke generators the White with Red stripe wires are the main +12VDC control circuit. One of the White/Red comes from the Emergency Stop Switch and is 12V battery power. The other White Red provides that control power to start and run the generator. When those two wires are disconnected the generator will not crank or start.
The missing wire on that module is a third from the generator Ign/start switch to the GEN 18 terminal; this is what operates the generator relay in the module.

 

[Brent Nutting]

I have a 2007 52DB not sure if we have the same door but I understand these trucks work for my boat. Do you have a door made by Taylor Made?

eBay - (DR-266) P.E. / Delmar Tandem Roller for Sliding Glass Doors

View attachment 121032

Thank you for the response back. Our door is Taylor Made as well so I am hopeful these will work. Can't imagine they would use different trucks.

 

[Pensacola Dan]

First it appears to be OEM wiring and crimps but not normally what we see. Like you, I agree the engine interrupt does not shut down the generator as wired in this picture (the jumper).
For Westerbeke generators the White with Red stripe wires are the main +12VDC control circuit. One of the White/Red comes from the Emergency Stop Switch and is 12V battery power. The other White Red provides that control power to start and run the generator. When those two wires are disconnected the generator will not crank or start.
The missing wire on that module is a third from the generator Ign/start switch to the GEN 18 terminal; this is what operates the generator relay in the module.

Thanks for great info. I ran a lead to the GEN 18 terminal from the ignition and still didn’t work. Determined that the circuit within the Generators 3 and 4 was bad. I guess that’s why the jumper was placed there by PO. Have to replace the Sea-Fire. Ordered one directly from Sea-Fire and should be here next week.

 

[ttmott]

Thanks for great info. I ran a lead to the GEN 18 terminal from the ignition and still didn’t work. Determined that the circuit within the Generators 3 and 4 was bad. I guess that’s why the jumper was placed there by PO. Have to replace the Sea-Fire. Ordered one directly from Sea-Fire and should be here next week.

But where is the wire that is supposed to land on the Gen terminal 18?

 

[Pensacola Dan]

But where is the wire that is supposed to land on the Gen terminal 18?

No idea. From the looks of it, it never had an input on Gen 18. The tech at Sea-Fire recommended installing a wire from generator ignition to Generator 18. Assume I’ll keep it there when I install new interrupter but I’ll confirm with him before the install.

 

[ttmott]

No idea. From the looks of it, it never had an input on Gen 18. The tech at Sea-Fire recommended installing a wire from generator ignition to Generator 18. Assume I’ll keep it there when I install new interrupter but I’ll confirm with him before the install.

But you won't get an Ign signal until those white with red striped wires are connected.
What is the configuration of your gen start on your circuit breaker panel? You probably need to pick up the Bat + from that switching.

 

[ttmott]

Anyone have any experience with Sea-Fire relays? My generator will not shut off when testing the fire suppression system. It shuts down the engines and blowers, but it’s supposed to also shut down the generator if running. The Sea-Fire relay is located behind the main panel in the salon and has a white/red jumper on the generator terminals. When I removed the jumper, the generator will not start. Do I have a bad relay or is it wired improperly? I have a 2000 480 with 3196s and a Westerbeke 10.View attachment 121018

After a bit of thinking that jumper (white with red stripe between terminals 3 and 4) should come off of terminal 3 and instead installed on terminal 18. In this configuration when the generator ign switch is turned ON that jumper then activates the relay which closes the contact between terminal 3 and terminal 4 and consequently then the generator will start and run. Yet, still if the fire system discharges it will open the relay and terminate the generator's operation.

 

[Pensacola Dan]

After a bit of thinking that jumper (white with red stripe between terminals 3 and 4) should come off of terminal 3 and instead installed on terminal 18. In this configuration when the generator ign switch is turned ON that jumper then activates the relay which closes the contact between terminal 3 and terminal 4 and consequently then the generator will start and run. Yet, still if the fire system discharges it will open the relay and terminate the generator's operation.

I agree with that logic. Moved it to 18 with no result. Consulted with SeaFire tech and he said it’s probably the SeaFire 3-4 circuit. I’m third owner, so probably PO bypassed the bad circuit by jumping 3-4. Guess I will roll the dice and install a new SeaFire.

 

[ttmott]

I agree with that logic. Moved it to 18 with no result. Consulted with SeaFire tech and he said it’s probably the SeaFire 3-4 circuit. I’m third owner, so probably PO bypassed the bad circuit by jumping 3-4. Guess I will roll the dice and install a new SeaFire.

Before you do that, verify that terminal 4 is +12VDC when the Gen Ign is on and the jumper disconnected.
Sometimes the White/Red wires going to terminals 3 and 4 get swapped. If the +12VDC is on terminal 3 when the ign is turned on then swap the two white/red wires on Terminals 3 and 4.

 

[ranger58sb]

There's a 480 Sedan bridge in Rock Hall, MD currently listed at $267. Cat 3196's, but the listing says with appropriate engine updates.

Has anyone looked at that? Reasons why it hasn't sold already?

-Chris