48 DA Owners Club

Shaps said:
Second question is about cone washers.
After replacing a few, and recognizing a 10yr old boat will likely have more to replace, is there a preferred method to remove these other than picking them out with something sharp?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
I use a dental pick...
 
Shaps said:
Tks Carter. Will do.
Click to expand...
I think you will find it is rare those seals leak; usually leaks occur between the hose and the fitting. Many of us have removed and replaced the fitting. There are a couple of detailed threads on this issue and how to replace the defective fittings.
 
ttmott said:
I think you will find it is rare those seals leak; usually leaks occur between the hose and the fitting. Many of us have removed and replaced the fitting. There are a couple of detailed threads on this issue and how to replace the defective fittings.
Click to expand...
Tom,
Do you have a good source for those fittings you could share? Also last week I pulled all of my faucet and shower screens to find lots of debris again. I did this a few months ago and know this boat wasn't used so I expected to find some and I did. Are these any screens in the water manifold that I should go to? Didn't want to take it apart unless I can confirm.
Thanks - Grant
 
Regarding the fittings - Re-use the existing or PEX's swivel adapters from Lowes or HD. You will find the hose end of the PEX fitting a bit small for the hose ID which is the problem with the fittings installed by Sea Ray. The PEX has a longer barbed end so they seem to work better. Heat the hose end with a heat gun then clamp down on the fitting using a hose clamp like Oetiker pinch clamps or quality worm screw clamps. Heating the hose makes it very pliable and will easily conform firmly to the barbs; if you don't warm up the hose it stays very stiff and good luck getting conformed to the fitting.... Regarding screens - I have a screen filter on the inlet of the water pump - clean that also.... No screens on the manifolds that I know of.
water pump1.JPG
IMG_2641.JPG
 
Last edited:
carterchapman said:
Tom,

I had a lot of leaks in my 340 at the manifold, and solved them all by renewing the cone washers. If they are crushed at all, they will leak...
Click to expand...
Looks like you got off easy. My leaks were everywhere when I raised the water pressure and found all in the fitting assembly. I do have a full bag of those cone washers as I thought the same.... Kept replacing the washers and tightening but leaks got worse then found out the real source.
 
ttmott said:
Regarding the fittings - Re-use the existing or PEX's swivel adapters from Lowes or HD. You will find the hose end of the PEX fitting a bit small for the hose ID which is the problem with the fittings installed by Sea Ray. The PEX has a longer barbed end so they seem to work better. Heat the hose end with a heat gun then clamp down on the fitting using a hose clamp like Oetiker pinch clamps or quality worm screw clamps. Heating the hose makes it very pliable and will easily conform firmly to the barbs; if you don't warm up the hose it stays very stiff and good luck getting conformed to the fitting.... Regarding screens - I have a screen filter on the inlet of the water pump - clean that also.... No screens on the manifolds that I know of.
View attachment 88972 View attachment 88953
Click to expand...
Thanks Tom, I am going to pick up some of those and keep them on the boat. You mentioned you bumpped up the pressure??? How, I would love to have a few more PSI.
 
Shaps said:
Spoke to Sea Ray directly and they were super helpful. They sent me powerpoint files on how to do it, and layouts, etc. Happy to share but the files are too large to upload here. Even turning them into PDFs they are still 3 files of 3mb each. Happy to email to anyone who wants or if there is a repository I can upload to just let me know.

They estimate it would take 2 people 5 hours to replace the lines to the heads in both berths. The macerator and holding tank lines an additional 2 people @ 4 hours.
Click to expand...
Shaps said:
Spoke to Sea Ray directly and they were super helpful. They sent me powerpoint files on how to do it, and layouts, etc. Happy to share but the files are too large to upload here. Even turning them into PDFs they are still 3 files of 3mb each. Happy to email to anyone who wants or if there is a repository I can upload to just let me know.

They estimate it would take 2 people 5 hours to replace the lines to the heads in both berths. The macerator and holding tank lines an additional 2 people @ 4 hours.
Click to expand...

Great post! I’m starting this repair now a d have a couple guys in the engine room struggling with the hoses. Would you email me the power points please? Klgmlg@aol.com. Many thanks, Keith
 
ocgrant said:
Thanks Tom, I am going to pick up some of those and keep them on the boat. You mentioned you bumpped up the pressure??? How, I would love to have a few more PSI.
Click to expand...
It depends upon the water pump. For most positive displacement diaphragm pumps like Shurflo there is a screw on the end cap that adjusts the spring pressure for the pressure regulator; screwing it in increases the static pressure on the system. Keep in mind this does not increase the pump's flow rate.
 
Sent to you Keith. Good Luck!
 
Found a good source of water in the bilge. The cockpit air conditioner tray is full of water and leaking over the side.
is there a way to flush that drain line without a compressor?
I'm away for the weekend and have some tools with me, but not that.
Any suggestions?

That said, I'm happy I am finding these... Making progress!
 
Shaps said:
Found a good source of water in the bilge. The cockpit air conditioner tray is full of water and leaking over the side.
is there a way to flush that drain line without a compressor?
I'm away for the weekend and have some tools with me, but not that.
Any suggestions?

That said, I'm happy I am finding these... Making progress!
Click to expand...
David,
I've had best luck using a small shop vac I keep on board since carrying a compressor isn't realistic, lol. I've usually sucked from the end of the drain line, which usually dislodges whatever sludge is in the line, using the full water pan to hold the suction until it's empty. Note I said 'usually' - I did once have what was really just a slimy dust ball that clogged the line so bad I needed to let drain cleaner sit on it to break it up. I've also used a tiny bit of mild drain cleaner in the lines in the past with good success as a preventative, but I'm guessing even a little no-flex in the pan time to time wouldn't harm anything and may work decrease the clogged artery and prevent further build-up. I'm not a fan of chemicals long term because they will eventually degrade the lines, and replacing them isn't fun.
As an aside, I regularly take my little shop vac into the 'basement' and open the main sump and suck each hose out - you'd be surprised how much muck they hold - even with regular use and my OCD of keeping them clean. Good luck!
 
Thanks Jeff.
Since these lines go into the greywater sump, are you saying you disconnect the drain lines there and attach the shop vac there?

I think if I bring 1 more tool on the boat (permanently) wifey will throw a fit.
 
Shaps said:
Thanks Jeff.
Since these lines go into the greywater sump, are you saying you disconnect the drain lines there and attach the shop vac there?
I actually don’t even disconnect the lines, I just put the nozzle right up and suck. Small shop vac, easy to use in the gray water sump. Try that first.
I think if I bring 1 more tool on the boat (permanently) wifey will throw a fit.
Click to expand...
I actually don’t even disconnect them at the gray water sump...I just put the nozzle right up to them and suck. It’s a small, but power
 
Sooliman said:
I actually don’t even disconnect them at the gray water sump...I just put the nozzle right up to them and suck. It’s a small, but power
Click to expand...
If you are talking about the big unit up top, that drains into the manifold system diectly. You can get to that drain hose by poping out the intake vent closest to the starboard side. The issue with these AC units is the stupid powder coated pan they used rusts and chunks of rust end up blocking the drain. I use the shop vac and suck it all out dry on each unit regularly. In your case use the shop vac in "wet mode" and suck it out and I bet you will see a bunch of crap stacked in front of the drain. You can reach it to clear it by hand first to get the water draining.

and yes I keep a shop vac in the dock box....must have
 
Thanks Grant.
That's the big unit in the cockpit. Looking at how to get the intake off... Brb
 
They did pop off. Took some persuading. PO put them on with silicone
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,247
Messages
1,429,190
Members
61,123
Latest member
Tim Duncan
Back
Top