48 DA Owners Club

[ocgrant]

Thank you. Not an ideal location, by the way lol.

I agree, this is what Havana Shamrock did on his... very cool idea. I plan on adding this to my to-do list for qucik access.

 

[Zach312]

I agree, this is what Havanna Shamrock did on his... very cool idea. I plan on adding this to my to-do list for qucik access.

View attachment 88250 View attachment 88251

What is the broken piece on the breaker?

 

[Sooliman]

I agree, this is what Havanna Shamrock did on his... very cool idea. I plan on adding this to my to-do list for qucik access.

View attachment 88250 View attachment 88251

That's borderline brilliant, I'm doing the same. Thanks for sharing. Sometimes you have to see these things to say - 'why didn't I think of that?'

PS - I added a similar (larger and clear) access door to my sump which has made adding NoFlex or just lifting the float switch to make sure it's fairly empty a breeze. Highly recommend this easy modification for anyone who hasn't done it. I also have a water-witch new in box which I've yet to install - but everyone raves about them.

 

[ocgrant]

What is the broken piece on the breaker?

That is a service clip to keep it locked in the off position

 

[OldManP]

Finally got to put some hours on the boat this season and finding both motors running 177-179 degrees where typically 174. Guessing cooling system is ready for cleaning. Has anyone had any experience using barnacle buster with sea flush system? Seems like a whole lot less work than pulling everything off. Not sure what the capacity is from strainer to the exhaust and not sure if that small snorkel can get enough flow going through with engine running. Anyone have experience with this?

 

[Sooliman]

Finally got to put some hours on the boat this season and finding both motors running 177-179 degrees where typically 174. Guessing cooling system is ready for cleaning. Has anyone had any experience using barnacle buster with sea flush system? Seems like a whole lot less work than pulling everything off. Not sure what the capacity is from strainer to the exhaust and not sure if that small snorkel can get enough flow going through with engine running. Anyone have experience with this?

So, this is interesting. I literally had my diesel mechanic / friend at the boat yesterday and wound up asking this exact same question while we did a mid-season check on everything in the ER. I did complete aftercoolers and heat exchangers over the winter - yet I'm running closer to 176-177 on both motors. I specifically asked with a clean cooling system, including freshly cleaned sea strainers if there was anything odd in his opinion about running these temps. He assured me that it was fine, and he's a Cummins expert whom I trust - but I was / am still skeptical because earlier in the season (with cooler water and ambient air temperatures) the boat runs closer to 174-175 on nose. He said if they don't [ever] creep up over 180 (they never go above 178 even at WOT) and that and they come right down when not on a load [idle] - there is no concern. Anyone else have thoughts on that? My local water temp is now close to 80 degrees for reference.

 

[Sooliman]

Oh, and to answer your original question, I've used Barnacle Buster on other closed-loop systems including my A/C systems and previous diesel engines with great [noticeable] results. I haven't personally done it on this boat yet with the QSCs. There is a good video on YouTube advertising Barnacle Buster where they did a system flush on a pair of QSM-11s on a 48DB with great results.

 

[OldManP]

Oh, and to answer your original question, I've used Barnacle Buster on other closed-loop systems including my A/C systems and previous diesel engines with great [noticeable] results. I haven't personally done it on this boat yet with the QSCs. There is a good video on YouTube advertising Barnacle Buster where they did a system flush on a pair of QSM-11s on a 48DB with great results.

I wasn’t too concerned at 177 but I’ve been told the same thing that 180 should never be reached, so 179 is getting too close for my comfort level. I’ll look for that video and give it a try. Thanks

 

[Shaps]

So, this is interesting. I literally had my diesel mechanic / friend at the boat yesterday and wound up asking this exact same question while we did a mid-season check on everything in the ER. I did complete aftercoolers and heat exchangers over the winter - yet I'm running closer to 176-177 on both motors. I specifically asked with a clean cooling system, including freshly cleaned sea strainers if there was anything odd in his opinion about running these temps. He assured me that it was fine, and he's a Cummins expert whom I trust - but I was / am still skeptical because earlier in the season (with cooler water and ambient air temperatures) the boat runs closer to 174-175 on nose. He said if they don't [ever] creep up over 180 (they never go above 178 even at WOT) and that and they come right down when not on a load [idle] - there is no concern. Anyone else have thoughts on that? My local water temp is now close to 80 degrees for reference.

I was out last night, boat ran 172 on both engines running at 80% load.
Dropped down to around 162 pretty quickly when we came off plane.

I also have new aftercoolers/heat exchangers and new impellers in the raw water pumps.

 

[Sooliman]

I was out last night, boat ran 172 on both engines running at 80% load.
Dropped down to around 162 pretty quickly when we came off plane.

I also have new aftercoolers / heat-exchangers and new impellers in the raw water pumps.

172 - that's a winner! I've never seen less than 174 under load. I wonder if the sensors / thermostats / computer or something else is slightly different on the Pod-driven boats even thought the motors are essentially idenitcal.
Incidentally, I'm also really curious about the cooler waters (around here) early in the season if they make any difference at all or it's just my imagination.

 

[Shaps]

It made a difference for me, my first couple of weeks out, I was running 169-169.

Pod boats have the water intake as part of the pod itself, the seacock is mounted on the plate of the pod.
I'd be surprised if that made a difference, but I will leave that to those who understand fluid dynamics way better than me.

 

[Rocket]

So, this is interesting. I literally had my diesel mechanic / friend at the boat yesterday and wound up asking this exact same question while we did a mid-season check on everything in the ER. I did complete aftercoolers and heat exchangers over the winter - yet I'm running closer to 176-177 on both motors. I specifically asked with a clean cooling system, including freshly cleaned sea strainers if there was anything odd in his opinion about running these temps. He assured me that it was fine, and he's a Cummins expert whom I trust - but I was / am still skeptical because earlier in the season (with cooler water and ambient air temperatures) the boat runs closer to 174-175 on nose. He said if they don't [ever] creep up over 180 (they never go above 178 even at WOT) and that and they come right down when not on a load [idle] - there is no concern. Anyone else have thoughts on that? My local water temp is now close to 80 degrees for reference.

I would a do refresh on the coolant side of the heat exchanger. If the solution is too rich (too much glycol) it reduces the capacity to absorb heat. Pure water has a higher specific heat than the coolant mixture. If the raw water side of the heat exchangers are clean then I would definitely do the coolant flush and renew with the approved Fleetgaurd premix solution. This should be done every 5 yrs. Most don't do it until its a problem.

 

[Sooliman]

That's a great point Mike, thanks.
Now I'm thinking more about it though - particularly since all the coolant was flushed / refreshed over the winter when the heat exchangers and aftercoolers were done. Maybe the mixture is off - and there is too much glycol in the solution.

 

[dcwjd]

That's a great point Mike, thanks.
Now I'm thinking more about it though - particularly since all the coolant was flushed / refreshed over the winter when the heat exchangers and aftercoolers were done. Maybe the mixture is off - and there is too much glycol in the solution.

I regularly cruise at 2370 rpm and 174 temp on both engines.

 

[Zach312]

This where our #'s right after a full cooling system service before we brought the boat home.

 

[ocgrant]

Ok...Bimini trip was canceled to Mother Nature for at least a couple of weeks. So back to projects. the Admiral complained about the AC in the forward cabin being too loud when sleeping so ordered some sound deading foam and lined the whole cabinet. Big difference, went ahead and did the rear stateroom also since I order 2 packs of this stuff. Super simple peal and stick upgrade with instant results.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8pc-Black-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[Shaps]

Coming back to my (OCD) quest on a dry bilge..

The rear bilge in the Engine Room is almost bone dry now, however, the forward bilge in the ER accumulates some water still. It's been really hot here, so have been running all the A/Cs and the fresh water pump is on for the duration so really haven't had a chance to work through more process of elimination. However, it does lead me to this question..
Are there specific areas of the boat that would feed the forward bilge in the engine room? Basically I am trying to narrow down the search.

Second question is about cone washers.
After replacing a few, and recognizing a 10yr old boat will likely have more to replace, is there a preferred method to remove these other than picking them out with something sharp?
Thanks!

 

[ocgrant]

Coming back to my (OCD) quest on a dry bilge..

The rear bilge in the Engine Room is almost bone dry now, however, the forward bilge in the ER accumulates some water still. It's been really hot here, so have been running all the A/Cs and the fresh water pump is on for the duration so really haven't had a chance to work through more process of elimination. However, it does lead me to this question..
Are there specific areas of the boat that would feed the forward bilge in the engine room? Basically I am trying to narrow down the search.

Second question is about cone washers.
After replacing a few, and recognizing a 10yr old boat will likely have more to replace, is there a preferred method to remove these other than picking them out with something sharp?
Thanks!

I would say has to be the AC pump leaking. Not really anything else there.

 

[knot at work]

I think I said this on another thread, but using No-Flex Digestor regularly resulted in no odors when changing mine...

I'm running no-flex thru my 2 tanks now so I can replace the crossover hoses from one tank to the other.

 

[Shaps]

I would say has to be the AC pump leaking. Not really anything else there.

Will check this weekend.

Thanks Grant!