460 DA Owners Thread

Started noticing my Port engine is showing higher temps than starboard. I have Cummins 480CE. At 2300 RPM, port was close to 190 and starboard about 170. Could it be clogged water strainer? Also, Port engine has lower oil pressure ~45 psi versus starboard ~65 at 2300 RPM. Any thoughts?
 
csnaik said:
Started noticing my Port engine is showing higher temps than starboard. I have Cummins 480CE. At 2300 RPM, port was close to 190 and starboard about 170. Could it be clogged water strainer? Also, Port engine has lower oil pressure ~45 psi versus starboard ~65 at 2300 RPM. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Sekhar,

Give us a little more info. I know that the boat is new to you, but do you have service records for impellers and/or any other components on the cooling side?

As Russ suggested start with simple items. I would also start with seastrainer and scoopstrainer to make sure the adequate water intake gets to the water pump. I think since you have v-drives, then your configuration is opposite of mine and you have easy access to the port side impeller. If the strainers check out fine, then take the water pump cover off and inspect the impeller to make sure all the vanes are there. It's only 3 small bolts and the gasket. Be ready to have proper tools to file the cover and the pump side end to be nice and flat. Save the o-ring so you can re-install it after the inspection. Worst case scenario, you'll have to make the call to get cummins tech out.

Good luck,
Alex.
 
Thanks Alex, Russ.
I will start with the Sea Strainer / Scoop Strainer. This is new to me - so where are the strainers?

Regards

Sekhar
 
I know there is a winterization section but I am wondering what you guys do with your 460's. Specifically the batteries, much too heavy to pulling them all out as I did with gassers, do you just keep the boat plugged in? And what else?
 
Russ,

In my marina there's no plug-in during the winter. On all my previous boats I took the batteries home and babysit them over the winter. However, my 420DB has 6 batteries and this is when I said to myself that it's way too much of an overhead. So, I leave them in for the winter. Before I button everything for good I have the boat plugged in to charge the batteries and then disconnect them. This is a critical part, b/c there's always something that draws the juice little by little. So, if don't disconnect them and the boat is unplugged I can pretty much guaranty you'll have dead batteries. I had access to the power tower, which could have been used for short term, so I charged my batteries once during the winter.

Here's a sample log on how mine were holding up over the winter:
Log voltage of all batteries: (Stats Nov-2011, Stats Feb-2012)
Stbd Side L=13.23v, s1-12.53v, after charge 13.22v
Stbd Side R=13.09v, s2-12.75v, after charge 13.14v
Port Side L=13.27v, p1-13.21v, after charge 13.30v
Port Side R=13.09v, p2-12.91v, after charge 13.25v

Bowthruster L=11.62v, 10.86v, after charge 11.62v - this was a trouble battery for a while, so I replaced it later on.
Bowthruster R=13.92v, 13v, after charge 13.83v

As you can see, for the most part the voltage drop is very minor that has not much of an negative impact on the batteries. As you can imagine, before I start using them I plug the boat and charge them first. Thus, my conclusion is that as long as you charge the batteries and disconnect before storing them for few months they'll do just fine.
 
Last edited:
Alex F said:
Russ,

In my marina there's no plug-in during the winter. On all my previous boats I took the batteries home and babysit them over the winter. However, my 420DB has 6 batteries and this is when I said to myself that it's way too much of an overhead. So, I leave them in for the winter. Before I button everything for good I have the boat plugged in to charge the batteries and then disconnect them. This is a critical part, b/c there's always something that draws the juice little by little. So, if don't disconnect them and the boat is unplugged I can pretty much guaranty you'll have dead batteries. I had access to the power tower, which could have been used for short term, so I charged my batteries once during the winter.

Here's a sample log on how mine were holding up over the winter:
Log voltage of all batteries: (Stats Nov-2011, Stats Feb-2012)
Stbd Side L=13.23v, s1-12.53v, after charge 13.22v
Stbd Side R=13.09v, s2-12.75v, after charge 13.14v
Port Side L=13.27v, p1-13.21v, after charge 13.30v
Port Side R=13.09v, p2-12.91v, after charge 13.25v

Bowthruster L=11.62v, 10.86v, after charge 11.62v - this was a trouble battery for a while, so I replaced it later on.
Bowthruster R=13.92v, 13v, after charge 13.83v

As you can see, for the most part the voltage drop is very minor that has not much of an negative impact on the batteries. As you can imagine, before I start using them I plug the boat and charge them first. Thus, my conclusion is that as long as you charge the batteries and disconnect before storing them for few months they'll do just fine.
Click to expand...


Alex

Is your boat left in the water or on the hard?

Graham
 
My boat sits on hard over the winter.
 
Tough weekend -
The prior weekend I cleaned my Groco strainers before leaving for home - no problem.
This past weekend I headed out and in about half a mile my temp alarm went off.
Evidently I had inadvertently created an air lock and bot impellers shredded down to the hubs.
Port engine, no problem replaced impeller in 45 minutes.
Starboard engine 5+ hours, what a PITA and hands getting that one replaced.
I was amazed at how the impellers shredded and all of the parts that flushed from the water flow.
 
All's Well said:
Tough weekend -
The prior weekend I cleaned my Groco strainers before leaving for home - no problem.
This past weekend I headed out and in about half a mile my temp alarm went off.
Evidently I had inadvertently created an air lock and bot impellers shredded down to the hubs.
Port engine, no problem replaced impeller in 45 minutes.
Starboard engine 5+ hours, what a PITA and hands getting that one replaced.
I was amazed at how the impellers shredded and all of the parts that flushed from the water flow.
Click to expand...

Odd.... Did you drain the site glass or just pull the strainer leaving it filled with water? When I drain the site glass, I normally will open the valve prior to tightening the top cap and relieve most of the air that would otherwise be trapped. Just an idea for future cleaning........
 
"Tough weekend -
The prior weekend I cleaned my Groco strainers before leaving for home - no problem.
This past weekend I headed out and in about half a mile my temp alarm went off.
Evidently I had inadvertently created an air lock and bot impellers shredded down to the hubs.
Port engine, no problem replaced impeller in 45 minutes.
Starboard engine 5+ hours, what a PITA and hands getting that one replaced.
I was amazed at how the impellers shredded and all of the parts that flushed from the water flow."


Sounds like my experience as well, the first time before I smartened up. I am sure there are others who have forgotten to open those valves after cleaning the strainers.

May I offer some suggestions about the seawater pumps? On the Sundancer (with V-drives), the easy impeller will be on the port motor but starboard on the Sedan Bridge with straight drives. That one took me an hour the first time but only because I dropped the "key" down the intake and had to remove the hose from the strainer. The starboard was a bear. I worked in a mirror (part of my occupation) but again I dropped the key.

So there are two bits of advice:
1) Always drop out the starboard pump to change the impeller. The job will take you an hour that way and the impeller will be properly changed out on the bench. To do that start by undoing the four bolts on the top (outflow) flange, remove that hose from the flange, then drop three of the four bolts on the bottom or inflow flange. Loosen the fourth bolt a bit. Then, undo the two mounting bolts of the pump body and the whole pump swings out. Undo that last fourth bolt and do the impeller change on the bench.
2) Consider changing out the Sherwoods to the SeaMax units. They have splined impellers (no key to drop and wreck your day) and they are built tough. They pump lots of water too.
3) Get an inspection camera and make sure all the impeller bits are out of the bottom of the aftercooler but please remember to open the shut-offs again!

Hope that helps.

James
 
My port pump was changed this spring I think I am going to attempt changing the starboard one myself this fall or spring. Anyone have the model number and a good source for the one I should buy?

I think I just found it Sea Max 1730 was the one used on my port motor. Is Seaboard the best place to buy?
 
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All's Well said:
Tough weekend -
The prior weekend I cleaned my Groco strainers before leaving for home - no problem.
This past weekend I headed out and in about half a mile my temp alarm went off.
Evidently I had inadvertently created an air lock and bot impellers shredded down to the hubs.
Port engine, no problem replaced impeller in 45 minutes.
Starboard engine 5+ hours, what a PITA and hands getting that one replaced.
I was amazed at how the impellers shredded and all of the parts that flushed from the water flow.
Click to expand...

I didn't realize this could happen. I clean my strainers often. I close the seacock, unscew the top, remove the strainer, clean, replace, screw on the top and open the seacock. I do always look to see water is flowing well out the exhaust bypasses every time I start the motors, just a habit. Is this a big concern?
 
Russ Calasant said:
My port pump was changed this spring I think I am going to attempt changing the starboard one myself this fall or spring. ....
Click to expand...

Russ, do it in spring. What's the point to change in fall and have new impeller sit all winter long and deform?
 
cod said:
Odd.... Did you drain the site glass or just pull the strainer leaving it filled with water? When I drain the site glass, I normally will open the valve prior to tightening the top cap and relieve most of the air that would otherwise be trapped. Just an idea for future cleaning........
Click to expand...

That's why I thought I would be good to go, I only pulled the strainers - cleaned and replaced. I left the top loose enough to verify I had good water flow once I reopened the sea cocks. There was plenty of water flowing through the strainers.
 
Jaws said:
"Tough weekend -
The prior weekend I cleaned my Groco strainers before leaving for home - no problem.
This past weekend I headed out and in about half a mile my temp alarm went off.
Evidently I had inadvertently created an air lock and bot impellers shredded down to the hubs.
Port engine, no problem replaced impeller in 45 minutes.
Starboard engine 5+ hours, what a PITA and hands getting that one replaced.
I was amazed at how the impellers shredded and all of the parts that flushed from the water flow."


Sounds like my experience as well, the first time before I smartened up. I am sure there are others who have forgotten to open those valves after cleaning the strainers.

May I offer some suggestions about the seawater pumps? On the Sundancer (with V-drives), the easy impeller will be on the port motor but starboard on the Sedan Bridge with straight drives. That one took me an hour the first time but only because I dropped the "key" down the intake and had to remove the hose from the strainer. The starboard was a bear. I worked in a mirror (part of my occupation) but again I dropped the key.

So there are two bits of advice:
1) Always drop out the starboard pump to change the impeller. The job will take you an hour that way and the impeller will be properly changed out on the bench. To do that start by undoing the four bolts on the top (outflow) flange, remove that hose from the flange, then drop three of the four bolts on the bottom or inflow flange. Loosen the fourth bolt a bit. Then, undo the two mounting bolts of the pump body and the whole pump swings out. Undo that last fourth bolt and do the impeller change on the bench.
2) Consider changing out the Sherwoods to the SeaMax units. They have splined impellers (no key to drop and wreck your day) and they are built tough. They pump lots of water too.
3) Get an inspection camera and make sure all the impeller bits are out of the bottom of the aftercooler but please remember to open the shut-offs again!

Hope that helps.

James
Click to expand...

Thanks James, I very well may look into changing to Seamax, the keyway was a pain to align and I did drop it into the port side - good that I had plenty of room there.
Removing the pump would be easier but the real challenge was removing the bottom of the heat exchanger to get all the vanes and rubber from the shredded impeller on the starboard side. I never did get the 3rd bolt freed so I flushed what I could and got probably 90% that way.
 
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