Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Sport Yachts/Yachts' started by Russ Calasant, Feb 4, 2012.
Are you saying I shouldn't mount this at the helm?
Take a look at www.uglyfishinc.com. They have the same ones I do but not sure of the size. I have an 01 460 hardtop.
Thanks for the great idea. I did it in 2 colors.
Thanks for the help. I found the controller in the anchor locker and discovered a bad ground. Everything's bright now
What is everyone’s thought on Flexiteek2? Trying to decide between that or Hydro decking/Seadeck
Doug, you know what they say about opinions....
Mine is this, I loved the fake teak, until I saw it installed. It looks just like fake teak.
So... I think if you want teak then get it and if not then get another product. I chose corinthian marine woven vinyl in a teak pattern.
As far as the seadek, I'll give it this, it is comfortable and non slip. To me again, it looks like it belongs on sport/wakeboard boats and not something of "yacht" quality.
Others love the stuff but there is my opinion.
To some degree I agree with Josh. Well, except for that yacht quality part. I have a competitive product to SeaDek (Aqua Marine Deck, made locally) and I get a lot of compliments. I'm also in Atlanta, if you want to see it on a similar boat to yours, let me know.
Ok team 460 I need help. Just noticed tonight that my port engine coolant overflow tank has green coolant. The stbd has blue. The issue is I changed the coolant to fleet guard elc which is blue in both engines in October. So I am assuming something is contaminating the coolant and making it turn green. Can you all tell me what that may be? My primary colors tells me it should be something yellow that would turn blue to green but not sure what that could be... ideas?
The aftercooler and heat exchanger is new. My only thought is the heat exchanger. It was new so could the antifreeze have reacted with the copper in the exchanger to make it green? If it matters the heat exchanger I purchased from mr cool.
Either they topped off your system with different brand or didn't flush it through my.
There is no they because I do all the maintenance. It had fleetguard blue before and I used fleetguard blue this change. Something is turning it green.
I wish it was just a mistake in the fill.
Thanks for the input!
I got a couple of projects off my winter hit list. I upgraded the dash lights to blue led and added a vent to the dash. I got a quote to add cockpit air of $7k and thought it a bit high for the limited times that we need heat or a/c boating in the great lakes. Instead, I decided to tap into the salon a/c unit by running a 4" duct up from the unit behind the electrical panel. I had to cut a hole in the fiberglass behind the gauge panel and once I got the 4" hose there, I split it to 2 2.5" vents, one at the helm (see pics) and a second under the stereo to keep the admiral comfortable. Air flow is very good. I thought if it was weak, I could add an in-line fan on an accessory switch, but air flow seems very good. I'm looking forward to launching so I can get a better idea of the effectiveness.
I have been thinking the only way to get AC to the helm was via this route but was afraid to cut that hole like you did.
Where did you find 2.5" duct and vents like you show? The chrome looks good. The smallest size I can find it 3".
check nostalgicac.com for vents.
we just bought a 2004 460DA and the engine compartment / bilge area isn’t up to what I think a clean compartment should be. Outside of bagging the air intakes on the diesels anything else I should do before pressure washing the whole compartment. I would also love to hear any tips or tricks you might have. Thanks so much for all your great advise
I would be reluctant to introduce the amount of water a pressure washer would. Too many electrical items and connections. I have cleaned reachable areas with simple green and rags. Will never look like new, but it's not.
I would also be too nervous to pressure wash the entire engine compartment. I use a 50/50 mix of bleach and water on the hard stuff, keeping the bleach away from any fittings, etc. or anything it would cause more harm than good by using it. Otherwise degreaser and water works wonders. Just let it soak in, wipe/scrub/rinse.
Does anyone have any experience with replacing the cutlass bearing in the strut? We have done a bunch of other upgrades and preventative things on this years winter list. I brought my props back from being redone and they said they'd recommend changing the bearings now too. It makes sense as it avoids a potential lift, service time pulling my props, etc. They also said they last a long time as long as we don't get to close by the beach stirring up sand.
I will be doing mine in the next 2-3 weeks. I had to pull my STBD shaft out and strut off to straighten the strut. While it is all apart I am replacing the cutlass bearing in that strut as well as the factory original dripless shaft seal.
For the port side my mechanic said he will bring the bearing press to get it out so we can do both at the same time. I did not take the port side apart as there weren't any issues other than thinking the cutlass should be replaced. From the looks of it, both of mine are original.
I will let you know how it goes once we get going.