Russ Calasant
Active Member
Has anyone removed the cabin door?
460 DA Owners Thread
- Thread starter Russ Calasant
- Start date
All's Well
Well-Known Member
Russ, I haven't done it but I am calling today to have the local Sea Ray guys replace the tracks. When the guys prepped mt boat for transport, they didn't close the door and secure it - it slammed open and closed for the 1400 mile trip.
Russ Calasant
Active Member
Wow, that sucks, let me know if your able to find anything out. Thx
Russ Calasant
Active Member
I did get the doors off, pretty simple actually. I ended up removing the washer dryer because the control board was bad and no longer available. After removing the cabin doors it came right out. They did use tie wraps on the service loops on the WD hoses and then screwed them to the sides so I literally had to yank the unit out of the wall. I found a newer Splendide replacement on craigslist and am back in business.
Carpedmman
Member
Ok Guys, here is a photo of my ISO Boost support rack. Please let me know if you need measurements.
Also, I completed the upgrade of the speakers to all JL audio 7.7" and the 10" sub. WOW! It was a real b-tch opening up the holes to accommodate the larger speakers, but the sound is so phenomenal!!!
Thanks for posting the photo of the ISO boost support. Similar to mine which is a little less elegant with grey painted wood support.
Here is what I have been thinking about: With ISO booster equipped boats (2002 and newer?), the table legs do hamper access to the thru hull water pick ups. I can get under there but in an emergency situation this would not be easy. So, I am thinking about having some new stainless steel legs made for the forward support and these would bolt through the stringer to the side rather than resting on the floor. It would give much better access to the aft bilge. Do you agree that the legs are in the way and should be relocated?
James
Here is what I have been thinking about: With ISO booster equipped boats (2002 and newer?), the table legs do hamper access to the thru hull water pick ups. I can get under there but in an emergency situation this would not be easy. So, I am thinking about having some new stainless steel legs made for the forward support and these would bolt through the stringer to the side rather than resting on the floor. It would give much better access to the aft bilge. Do you agree that the legs are in the way and should be relocated?
James
Carpedmman
Member
James-I totally agree with your thoughts that the through hulls are difficult to reach with an ISO boost installed. I would need to look at this closer, but your thoughts of installing it on a platform between the stringers might just be the answer to the problem. The current platform on my boat is barely big enough for me to squeeze under to reach my through hulls to close them. You could probably gain 6-8" total width without the legs in the way. Hopefully we never need to be trying to shut the valves in an emergency though!!!
I will be at the boat this afternoon with some "me" time and will look at this a bit more with a critical eye.
Graham Lorimer
Member
- Feb 13, 2009
- 436
- Boat Info
- Sundancer 460 2002
Volvo 480 HP
Raymarine Electronics
Avon 320DL RIB
Yamaha 25HP 4 Stroke
- Engines
- Volvo 74 TAMD EDC
Hi James,
Sounds like a very good idea.
I was on my boat last week, and in order to clean the rear bilge and change another BL**DY Rule switch, I took the ISO off its mount, and placed it temporarlily in front of the Port engine. It was extremely heavy to handle. I then unbolted the mount (Gray wooden item) and removed it while I did the work.
Graham
Guys,
I think we might be on to something here with trying to get more access room to the thru-hulls from under the "ISO table". Just need to find a metal fabricator and also two mounting areas outboard of the present ones. I would be tempted to just stay with the present wood "table" and replace only the forward support legs. Looks like a winter project.
On another topic, I had the propellers "tuned" over the winter. I've always struggled to get much above the 2600 rpm in the spring and then by the end of our season there is enough slime (or whatever) on the bottom to drop my WOT down to the 2575 range. At Boatdiesel they advocate 2700-2750 WOT. So I had the props scanned and they took out almost two inches of pitch. I thought it might have been too much since I am now spinning 23X24 rather than 23X26. Turns out they knew what they were doing. I don't think I lost much top end and cruising speed is similar at 2250-2275 (25 mph) as before, but instead of running 85-90%, I am now around 80%. More relaxed for the engines. I will check to see how the fuel consumption is on our Mackinac run this summer.
James
I think we might be on to something here with trying to get more access room to the thru-hulls from under the "ISO table". Just need to find a metal fabricator and also two mounting areas outboard of the present ones. I would be tempted to just stay with the present wood "table" and replace only the forward support legs. Looks like a winter project.
On another topic, I had the propellers "tuned" over the winter. I've always struggled to get much above the 2600 rpm in the spring and then by the end of our season there is enough slime (or whatever) on the bottom to drop my WOT down to the 2575 range. At Boatdiesel they advocate 2700-2750 WOT. So I had the props scanned and they took out almost two inches of pitch. I thought it might have been too much since I am now spinning 23X24 rather than 23X26. Turns out they knew what they were doing. I don't think I lost much top end and cruising speed is similar at 2250-2275 (25 mph) as before, but instead of running 85-90%, I am now around 80%. More relaxed for the engines. I will check to see how the fuel consumption is on our Mackinac run this summer.
James
Russ Calasant
Active Member
James, why did you go to 23x24? Does everyone find that 2200 to 2300 seems to be the comfortable cruise range? And what speeds are you guys seeing?
Carpedmman
Member
Russ- I like 2200-2250 RPMs for my boat. The engines sound good at that rpm and I'm burning around 27gal/hr. My speed greatly depends if I am going downstream or upstream since there is a 4-5mph current. Typical speed is between 24-26 or 27mph.
Hope this helps!
Stuart
Russ,
As you know from the BoatDiesel folks, you want to achieve 100-150 RPM over the WOT of 2600. So that's what the prop shop came up with. The 24" pitch seemed a little drastic to me but the engines are more relaxed at cruise which is generally 2250-2275. I will find out the fuel burn but my speed would be around 24-25 mph. With the extra measure of safety, 2300 should be fine.
James
As you know from the BoatDiesel folks, you want to achieve 100-150 RPM over the WOT of 2600. So that's what the prop shop came up with. The 24" pitch seemed a little drastic to me but the engines are more relaxed at cruise which is generally 2250-2275. I will find out the fuel burn but my speed would be around 24-25 mph. With the extra measure of safety, 2300 should be fine.
James
Russ Calasant
Active Member
I'm going to have to write the numbers down but I think I am on the slow side. At 2250 I think I am at 20 or 21 knots. Although I know the bottom is not in the best shape, I have to clean and paint. The boat was wintered in the water and I have yet to short haul. The season came up so fast (and money out) and short haul is low on a long list. I wanted to get to enjoying her. I know it's a lot of boat but I guess I expected more speed.
Russ,
That's fairly close to my numbers. Conversion is 1 knot = 1.1507 MPH
Here are my figures from a couple of weeks ago, clean bottom, fully loaded with fuel, half water.
2282 = 25.1 mph = 21.6 kn
2248 = 24.2 mph = 21.0 kn
2253 = 24.3 mph = 21.1 kn
I guess you figured out I have Aetna tachs.
That's fairly close to my numbers. Conversion is 1 knot = 1.1507 MPH
Here are my figures from a couple of weeks ago, clean bottom, fully loaded with fuel, half water.
2282 = 25.1 mph = 21.6 kn
2248 = 24.2 mph = 21.0 kn
2253 = 24.3 mph = 21.1 kn
I guess you figured out I have Aetna tachs.
Alex F
Well-Known Member
- Nov 14, 2006
- 9,167
- Boat Info
- 2005 420DB with AB 11 DLX Tender, Raymarine Electronics (2x12" MFDs) with Vesper AIS
- Engines
- Cummins 450Cs, 9KW Onan Generator, 40HP Yamaha for tender.
What puzzles me the most is that I was under the impression that DAs are always faster and more economical than DBs of similar size and weight. I'm surprised to see confirmation on these numbers for 460DA. As you know my boat has the same engines and at 2300-2350RPMs I'm going in the range of 23-24.5knts (depending on wind direction and sea condition). With much more wind resistance I don't understand why I'm going faster. Other 420s with 480CEs (basically the same engine) get about 1 knot more.
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Russ Calasant
Active Member
That puzzles me too Alex, I don't get it. Maybe someone with a better understanding will chime in.
Alex,
If I cruise over 2300 then my speed is higher as well. At 2310 rpm = 25.8 mph = 22.4 knots; 2350 would be 23.5 kn. Top end with these props is 2730rpm = 34.5mph = 30.0 kn That's fully loaded.
It's all in how you prop the boat. I had a bit too much pitch and I could still go back to that and pick up one or two knots in the cruise range but at the expense of decreased engine life. Also as I burn off fuel, my speed rises by 2 knots. The above readings are fully loaded, I'll emphasize again. We're probably around 35,000 lbs.
It's not that the 460DA is a slow boat, it isn't. It just is not as fast as a lighter or more powerful boat. I like my mechanical Cummins for their simplicity and with the SeaMax pumps, they are pretty much bullet proof. Fuel efficiency isn't bad either and with Wolverine heaters, they don't smoke on start up. A bit of old school.
James
If I cruise over 2300 then my speed is higher as well. At 2310 rpm = 25.8 mph = 22.4 knots; 2350 would be 23.5 kn. Top end with these props is 2730rpm = 34.5mph = 30.0 kn That's fully loaded.
It's all in how you prop the boat. I had a bit too much pitch and I could still go back to that and pick up one or two knots in the cruise range but at the expense of decreased engine life. Also as I burn off fuel, my speed rises by 2 knots. The above readings are fully loaded, I'll emphasize again. We're probably around 35,000 lbs.
It's not that the 460DA is a slow boat, it isn't. It just is not as fast as a lighter or more powerful boat. I like my mechanical Cummins for their simplicity and with the SeaMax pumps, they are pretty much bullet proof. Fuel efficiency isn't bad either and with Wolverine heaters, they don't smoke on start up. A bit of old school.
James
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Russ Calasant
Active Member
James what temp are you running at those speeds? As the water has become warmer my temp seems to be going up at cruise. March and April I was running 160, recently in June I noticed my starboard up at 164 port at 161 and this weekend I pushed her up to about 2500 for a while and saw temps of 169 starboard and about 165 port. When I throttle down to 2250 temps come down to 161 and 164 again then at idle both back to 160. Port water pump is new and starboard only new impeller, also I am only looking at the dash gauges. is this a concern? I know it's well within recommended temp range but I thought it was supposed to remain constant and consistent. Any one else?
Russ,
I'm running 160-162 all the time at cruise (160 thermostats) but that's from the dash gauges. The occassional peek at the engine gauges are fairly close. I'm in freshwater and the aftercoolers haven't been touched. I've scoped them and they are clean. The one thing I did was to swap out the Sherwoods to SeaMax. They seem to pump more water and the splined impellers are better.
There is some discussion about running 180 thermostats but I wouldn't chance that with the stock Sherwood pumps. Advocates of the 180's say the motors are more lively. My Cummins shop says "don't".
James
I'm running 160-162 all the time at cruise (160 thermostats) but that's from the dash gauges. The occassional peek at the engine gauges are fairly close. I'm in freshwater and the aftercoolers haven't been touched. I've scoped them and they are clean. The one thing I did was to swap out the Sherwoods to SeaMax. They seem to pump more water and the splined impellers are better.
There is some discussion about running 180 thermostats but I wouldn't chance that with the stock Sherwood pumps. Advocates of the 180's say the motors are more lively. My Cummins shop says "don't".
James
Carpedmman
Member
After 5 days on the boat over the Fourth I have a few items to report:
1) ICEMAKER went out on July 5th! Damn, I had 4 more days of vacation without my maker. After reading the manual, and trying a few things I gave it up for after the trip was over. Yesterday, at the dock, an old salt and I were talking about the problem and he asked what the signs were-I told him the ice started melting and it never cooled again. Hmmmm, we went into the engine room and found the GFCI had tripped on the bulkhead outlet and that the icemaker was on this circuit! Remember this friends so you may always have ice in your drinks!
2) SALON SOFA- Any idea why the salon sofa won't recline to the flat position? It goes forward and backward easily, but will not lay flat. Any suggestions?
TIA!
Stuart
1) ICEMAKER went out on July 5th! Damn, I had 4 more days of vacation without my maker. After reading the manual, and trying a few things I gave it up for after the trip was over. Yesterday, at the dock, an old salt and I were talking about the problem and he asked what the signs were-I told him the ice started melting and it never cooled again. Hmmmm, we went into the engine room and found the GFCI had tripped on the bulkhead outlet and that the icemaker was on this circuit! Remember this friends so you may always have ice in your drinks!
2) SALON SOFA- Any idea why the salon sofa won't recline to the flat position? It goes forward and backward easily, but will not lay flat. Any suggestions?
TIA!
Stuart
