460 DA Owners Thread

Russ Calasant said:
Okay next question, separate waste tanks, they both have a pipe coming out and joining together to the pump out outlet. They each have a red T valve handle that was close (both) I had to open them to pump out the tanks. Should they remain open or closed? If closed you have to go into the bilge and open every pump out? It sounded like both tanks were equalizing when I opened them,
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I don't read the 460 and other specific boat threads regularly since I don't own one, so I've missed this and the answers until now.


I don't leave the ball valves on the tank open for a couple of reasons. First, the plumbing to the waste pump or dockside pump out port stays full of waste when you leave the leave the valves open. THere are both rubber waste hoses and PVC piping between the tanks and where the waste leave the boat. That open you for some horrible odors in the bilge because the rubber hoses will eventually leach odors. You also expose yourself to an accident with a hose clamp or hose breaks which can happen over time or when some technician steps in the wrong place There isn't much worse than sun baked sewage as far as odors go and nothing worse to clean up unless its a month old dead body.

Leaving both valves open doubles your exposure to odors in the cabin as well. If you use both heads all the time then you have that exposure anyway, but for a predominately couples boat, it prevents you from keeping the aft head clean and odor free which does reduce cabin odors. When you leave the valves open it also prevents you from completely pumping the waste out of the boat because the pump-out/waste pump sucks air and stops pumping waste as soon as one tank is empty. That means you are holding some waste in the boat all the time. These are not septic tanks that need bacteria in them to work. If you leave waste in the boat, then you are going to get odors from time to time. When I leave my boat for a week or so, I prefer to leave it with both holding tanks spotlessly clean and deoderized..........as a result, I just don't have odors.

I leave both valves closed all the time, unless I am pumping the holding tanks out. This also lets me leave clean water in the lines between the tanks and the pump out fitting or discharge pump.
 
Excellent, thank you Frank. Do you have a separate valve to the macerator? Or with the valves open does this allow pump out via macerator as well? If so this would be a problem for us here with the CG. I can't seem to find a third valve.
 
There should be a seacock where the waste exits the boat if it is below the waterline. In my case, I travel into a no discharge zone frequently as a transient so my boat has safeguard after safeguard...........valves on each holding tank, a valve ahead of the discharge pump that is lockable, the seacock, a key switch on the panel, a breaker for the discharge pump and a toggle switch for the discharge pump. It would take an absolute idiot to pump the holding tanks on this boat by accident.

But here is a tip I learned the hard way...........the line that goes to the waste pump has a T in it......dunno if the 460 is the same or not..........one side of the T goes to the deck plate for dockside pump outs; the other side goes to the waste discharge pump. I installed a ball valve ahead of the discharge pump to take that pump off-line when pumping out. The reason is that some dock side pump-outs have enough vacuum to suck the duck bill valves inside out and some will even suck them completely out of the waste pump. This way I can isolate the waste pump from the circuit when pumping out and that saves the really messy, smelly job of rebuilding the waste pump.
 
fwebster said:
There should be a seacock where the waste exits the boat if it is below the waterline. In my case, I travel into a no discharge zone frequently as a transient so my boat has safeguard after safeguard...........valves on each holding tank, a valve ahead of the discharge pump that is lockable, the seacock, a key switch on the panel, a breaker for the discharge pump and a toggle switch for the discharge pump. It would take an absolute idiot to pump the holding tanks on this boat by accident.

But here is a tip I learned the hard way...........the line that goes to the waste pump has a T in it......dunno if the 460 is the same or not..........one side of the T goes to the deck plate for dockside pump outs; the other side goes to the waste discharge pump. I installed a ball valve ahead of the discharge pump to take that pump off-line when pumping out. The reason is that some dock side pump-outs have enough vacuum to suck the duck bill valves inside out and some will even suck them completely out of the waste pump. This way I can isolate the waste pump from the circuit when pumping out and that saves the really messy, smelly job of rebuilding the waste pump.
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Frank, good info as alway. Can you shoot a photo of your setup and post it when you have a chance? That does sound like a good idea being able to isolate the pump...
 
Can somebody please tell me what the GFI (I think it is called that, it is a circuit breaker with a reset button on it) that is located under the Cockpit hand basin, supplies power to.

When I turn it on, after about 4 hours, it blows the trip on the pontoon and in the engine room, and sometimes also the trip that supplies power to the whole length of the pontoon, about 20 boats.

I can not find anything that is not working with it turned off, but I guess it supplies to something, and that must be where my problem lies.

Any advice gratefully received, I am on the boat for another 5 days and would love to cure this issue.

Second question, has anybody renewed the fabric in the shade that pulls over the hatch in the saloon, the mossie netting is fine,but the fabric shade is very stained and I would like to change it.

Third question, can anybody make a suggestion as to why the Black water tanks always show as empty on the light readouts in the Heads and on the DB Board? No matter how full the tanks are, they always show empty, and I was hoping for some guidence before I start "digging around" down there.

Graham
 
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Hey Guys!
Have a horn issue with my 460. This past weekend I took the family 65miles up the Columbia River to Hood River. Hood River is the mecca for kite boarders and windsurfers in the summer as this is the center of the Cascade range where the Gorge is located. Beautiful boating! On our return trip mother nature kicked up some nasty arse waves at us and we were taking on 8-10 footers from every direction at a very short frequency. Needless to say the Admiral was a bit concerned and I was just trying to keep the bow up high. Unfortunately there were a few waves that buried the pulpit and came over the bow. Once back in the marina I noticed my horn does not work now. I have checked the horns, taken them apart, and they appear to be fine. Unfortunately these are extremely simple in design with just a small piece of plastic behind the 6 screws on the back of the horns. I checked the compressor in the starboard locker in the master and it is pushing air just fine. While I was in there I did put a few drops of oil in it to lube it up. Any other suggestions why the horns won't work?
Thanks in advance!
 
Carpedmman said:
Hey Guys!
Have a horn issue with my 460. This past weekend I took the family 65miles up the Columbia River to Hood River. Hood River is the mecca for kite boarders and windsurfers in the summer as this is the center of the Cascade range where the Gorge is located. Beautiful boating! On our return trip mother nature kicked up some nasty arse waves at us and we were taking on 8-10 footers from every direction at a very short frequency. Needless to say the Admiral was a bit concerned and I was just trying to keep the bow up high. Unfortunately there were a few waves that buried the pulpit and came over the bow. Once back in the marina I noticed my horn does not work now. I have checked the horns, taken them apart, and they appear to be fine. Unfortunately these are extremely simple in design with just a small piece of plastic behind the 6 screws on the back of the horns. I checked the compressor in the starboard locker in the master and it is pushing air just fine. While I was in there I did put a few drops of oil in it to lube it up. Any other suggestions why the horns won't work?
Thanks in advance!
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Sorry, I have no idea but let us know if you figure it out. I'm sure it will happen again.
 
What is everyone cruising at, speed and rpm, and what are your WOT numbers? Also do you know your gph numbers?
I'm curious to see where everyone is.
 
Russ Calasant said:
What is everyone cruising at, speed and rpm, and what are your WOT numbers? Also do you know your gph numbers?
I'm curious to see where everyone is.
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Hi Russ-
Numbers off the cuff are 2200rpm is around 24mph, top rpm is 2600-2700 and around 29-30mph. The current does have an effect on the speed and numbers. I average around .08-.09mpg.
Hope you are getting the kinks out of her!
Stuart
 
Carpedmman said:
Hi Russ-
Numbers off the cuff are 2200rpm is around 24mph, top rpm is 2600-2700 and around 29-30mph. The current does have an effect on the speed and numbers. I average around .08-.09mpg.
Hope you are getting the kinks out of her!
Stuart
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Thanks Stuart, that's helpful. I'm getting there a work in progress
 
DSC00055_edited-1.jpgOk, tore the carpet out of the salon installed new, What do you think
 
Looks great. What wood is that, maple? I have the same "faux maple" cabinets and I wondered how a wood floor would look.
Thanks for showing.

BTW, performance numbers on our 460: WOT 2640 and 2630 just after spring launch; Top speed 29.5, (hit 30 a couple of times) mph; Cruise @ 2275 rpm 21 knots with full fuel, going to 24 knots near empty. I had the props conditioned over the winter to take a bit of pitch out. I want 2700-2725 rpm WOT. Performance might be affected but the motors will be more relaxed.

We're burning 34 gph on a long run at cruise. Temperatures on both dash and on-engine guages are pegged at 160F. Aetna electronic tachs used.

James
 
The floor looks great, looks like a laminate?
 
DSC00056_edited-1.jpgDSC00057_edited-1.jpgDSC00059_edited-1.jpg
some addtional pict, yes i did the floor with some help from my son-in-law who is an installer. The floor is call Konnecto
it is a rubber floor, similar to what Sea Ray uses. it has a cermaic beaded fiish so it has texture to it. Best little maint. and
you can install with a razor knife and a little heat. Thanks All Bob
 
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