420 DA Thread

[Lovichka 420 DA]

I have a 2004 420 DA. Does anyone have theirs shrink wrapped and if so, how do you access the bilge? Seems like if its wrapped i might not be able to open the deck. Thanks

 

[Blueone]

I have a 2004 420 DA. Does anyone have theirs shrink wrapped and if so, how do you access the bilge? Seems like if its wrapped i might not be able to open the deck. Thanks

Ya that’s not going to happen....unless you are small enough to get in from the small hatch.... someone on here said he could do it

or shrink wrap it with the hatch open enough that you can get in there

same problem with heated storage....I raised my hatch and they backed it up as close as they could to the boat behind me...last year I missed it and couldn’t raise my hatch because of the guys anchor over my transom

 

[hwyltg]

Ya that’s not going to happen....unless you are small enough to get in from the small hatch.... someone on here said he could do it

or shrink wrap it with the hatch open enough that you can get in there

same problem with heated storage....I raised my hatch and they backed it up as close as they could to the boat behind me...last year I missed it and couldn’t raise my hatch because of the guys anchor over my transom

That’s what i was afraid of....Thank you

 

[brewster16]

No more like groining noise. Going up no noise at all. Sounds like the pistons are binding up. I going to grease the motors and spray lubricant on the pistons. If no improvement I will have to replace the actuators. Thanks

I have that too....kinda sounds like something is caught in the hatch and is being crushed as the hatch comes down?

 

[Blueone]

Hi all went into engine room today. I raised the engine hatch all normal going up. When i began to lower the hatch. I heard an unusual loud grinding noise as the hatch went down. Anyone ever had this happen. Thanks

I had this problem on the way down when we first bought the boat. I thought it was was more of a binding noise and thought it came from the hinges. When I heard the noise I would raise the hatch a bit then back down and it didn’t make the noise.... I always had the port side actuator a little bit slower and thought that might be it..... then one day the noise just stopped.... next season the port actuator broke at the piston and housing when I bumped into it.... broke right in half. Always put the safety bar down. Anyway replaced the actuator and it was still a tiny bit slower ... and never got the binding noise back in 3 seasons now

 

[Lovichka 420 DA]

Batteries are too low to open the hatch to finish the winterization now that she's up on the hard. Only power source is a 15 amp service nearby. Will I damage the battery charger or anything else if I connect it to a shore power inlet. Any other suggestions. The side hatch next to the bilge hatch is obviously accessible.

 

[Blueone]

Batteries are too low to open the hatch to finish the winterization now that she's up on the hard. Only power source is a 15 amp service nearby. Will I damage the battery charger or anything else if I connect it to a shore power inlet. Any other suggestions. The side hatch next to the bilge hatch is obviously accessible.

That’s enough if you don’t turn a lot of other things on......just watch your amp meters

 

[swaterhouse]

Batteries are too low to open the hatch to finish the winterization now that she's up on the hard. Only power source is a 15 amp service nearby. Will I damage the battery charger or anything else if I connect it to a shore power inlet. Any other suggestions. The side hatch next to the bilge hatch is obviously accessible.

No problem at all, either way its 120 volts.

I used a Y connector so I could turn on anything from either line, obviously only running 15 amps at a time (no AC, Stove etc).

 

[Lovichka 420 DA]

No problem at all, either way its 120 volts.

I used a Y connector so I could turn on anything from either line, obviously only running 15 amps at a time (no AC, Stove etc).

Merci to all. Much appreciated.

 

[Caseclosed]

I had this problem on the way down when we first bought the boat. I thought it was was more of a binding noise and thought it came from the hinges. When I heard the noise I would raise the hatch a bit then back down and it didn’t make the noise.... I always had the port side actuator a little bit slower and thought that might be it..... then one day the noise just stopped.... next season the port actuator broke at the piston and housing when I bumped into it.... broke right in half. Always put the safety bar down. Anyway replaced the actuator and it was still a tiny bit slower ... and never got the binding noise back in 3 seasons now

Thanks for your reply .I greased the fittings and sprayed WD40 on the pistons .This seemed to eliminate the binding noise .I will keep a close watch on this issue. And always use the safety bar.Thanks

 

[Chief Ed]

Got my underwater lights installed/wired up finally. Went with three of the Lumishore TIX403 Blue/White. Very bright and great “shade” of blue. Would’ve liked to space them out more on the transom, but the outboard corners (outboard of the trim tabs) didn’t look deep enough under the water line to provide the right effect.

 

[Lovichka 420 DA]

First, Sea Flush is your friend.....good purchase.

My first year winterizing, only 2 units, I used the Sea Flush to introduce Pink to the AC pump. I would only get Pink to discharge out of the Salon AC unit amidship. The forward AC unit would never spit out Pink. After trying to push about 10 gallons through, I raised the white flag and had the marina do it at $125....EACH! The next year, I rigged a bilge pump, a piece of garden hose, and now I PUMP Pink from a 5 gallon bucket and push it through the port side hull discharges...one at a time, and let the Pink spill into the Bilge through the open strainer (closed Sea cock).

These AC pumps are very low head pumps, not a lot of pressure. They usually have about 2' of head pressure on them from the boat sitting in the water. Because the delta pressure is not that big, the pink is looking for the path of least resistance, which may explain why you see no discharge from the other ports. You may want to consider backwashing the lines with fresh water to remove any build up. Wouldn't hurt.

Jaybeaux

Please keep in mind, me being a diesel newbie, this is my first boat in which I've done anything in the bilge beyond checking the dipstick on my former 270 SLX w/ 8.2 Mag Merc. A learning exercise. And a fun one, too.

Happy to report the Sea Flush was brilliant in getting pink thru the engines. Savings in avoided frustration and domestic friction: Priceless.

But first I had to get around drained batteries. Found a 'Y' Cord for the shore power fittings and an adapter to plug it into a 120V / 15 amp service using a looooong extension cord. Battery charger on, went back a couple of days later, Robert's my Uncle, hatch opened, Sea Flush installed, 5 gallon pail filled to the brim, three extra 1 gallon jugs of pink open and on stand by. Contraption worked as advertised.

Learned a couple of things. Bungee cords on the Sea Flush were too short to loop around the strainer in/out pipes like in their vids. Had to improvise by looping one around a ground wire (?) on one side and the other around something else that escapes memory.

Secondly, it's definitely a two-handed kit. One to keep the snorkel pressed firmly into the installed shop vac adapter to maintain leak free suction when the engine is pulling pink. The other hand is needed to grab and pour opened standby jugs into the pail as the pink is being drawn down. Even better would be someone the size of a 10 year old squatting against the transom to assist pouring opened jugs in the pail while your free hand makes sure the end of the snorkel is well positioned at the bottom of the pail.

Obviously, someone with good hearing, a sense of humour and an eye on the engine compartment needs to be at the helm starting and turning off the engines.

Lastly, in a perfect world, there would be a pal on the hard to signal success to the helm and collect pink in a pail vs having it splash on the ground.

Then, onto the A/C which I'd already tried to winterize pouring pink thru a funnel into the sea strainer. Less than successful as mentioned earlier in the thread since pink only shot out of the port side forward hull fitting and nothing from the starboard fittings. Didn't want to risk losing the salon or cockpit units to winter freeze so I decided to invest in more pink.

Again, next year, ideally 4 folks on duty. One in the bilge pressing and holding the snorkel in the shop vac adapter with the Sea Flush installed in the strainer. One person above to push the end of the snorkel into a jug of pink (perfect fit for jugs I bought), turn then jug upside down. They will have to wiggle the jug to break the suction from the snorkel as pink is sucked down (that's when the snorkel kept popping out). The 3rd person is at the panel in the salon to switch the A/C system on, and power up / power down the stateroom, salon and cockpit A/C units one at a time on command. I set all units beforehand to 80° F on the heat setting since its only 40° here now.

Any deviation from my suggested scenario will result in the snorkel being pushed out of the Sea Flush each time you introduce a new jug as when another empties, with pink spilling into the bilge. The forward bilge pump will come to the rescue by pushing expensive pink out the side. Not a good plan.

I suggest having 5 or more jugs opened and ready for the A/C work before you winterize the engines. That way, what you don't use for the A/C is ready for dumping in the pail for the engines.

Lastly, your suggestion of back flushing is one I will follow in the Spring for absolute sure. Perhaps even push Barnacle Buster after that, too. Why? Because when I reopened the A/C strainer yesterday the pink I'd used in my 1st attempt last week came spilling and it had a bunch of crud in it.

Anyway, I suggest the 3 hull fittings for the A/C units need to be plugged two at a time to make sure pink flows thru the system for each unit. Again, having a 4th person on the hard, taking gentle orders to plug/unplug the fittings in order will save huge amounts of time and shield everyone from unnecessary verbal abuse.

BTW, did the Genset the ol'school way a couple of weeks ago using a funnel. It, too, will get the Sea Flush love next winter, for sure.

Next up, test all batteries in the Spring and replace whichever one(s) let me down this time. Find the source of the coolant leak on the forward side of the port engine. Swap out the props for identical ones since I kissed a rock 48 hours after delivery. Chit happens, nes pas?

Many thanks to you, Jaybeaux, and to so many others here in this invaluable forum. Hope my experience helps someone else ways I've been helped.

 

[Jaybeaux]

Nice write up....you're learning quickly! Two things I would add:

1. When you load test your batteries, make sure you do it one battery at a time and that battery is isolated electricly from the rest. If it tests bad, you should replace the batteries in that bank. In other words, don't buy one brand new battery and put it in service with an older battery. If any batteries are bad, I'd change all of them out at the same time to have a good baseline. A lot of guys, myself included, are putting AGM batteries in. Sam's Club runs a tremendous sale every year. https://www.samsclub.com/p/duracell...nd-rv-battery-group-size-31dtmagm/prod3590232

2. Coolant leak on front of Port engine: I had a small leak on the banjo valve on the turbo. It is on the botton of the turbo and hard to see. I would put a blue shop towel under there to confirm leak. You will need a crush washer if this is in fact the culprit. You will also have to drain a bit of coolant otherwise you need to be VERY quick to not loose all of your coolant. I can't locate the part number at the moment, but I'll keep looking or someone will chime in.

Your words are too kind.

Jaybeaux

 

[Blueone]

Many thanks to you, Jaybeaux, and to so many others.

Your words are too kind.
Jaybeaux

Oh please.... I helped too and being one of the “so many others” It hurts a bit I wasn’t mentioned

 

[Jaybeaux]

Oh please.... I helped too and being one of the “so many others” It hurts a bit I wasn’t mentioned

Blue, when you thank a God, you do it in private!

 

[Irie308]

Please keep in mind, me being a diesel newbie, this is my first boat in which I've done anything in the bilge beyond checking the dipstick on my former 270 SLX w/ 8.2 Mag Merc. A learning exercise. And a fun one, too.

Happy to report the Sea Flush was brilliant in getting pink thru the engines. Savings in avoided frustration and domestic friction: Priceless.

But first I had to get around drained batteries. Found a 'Y' Cord for the shore power fittings and an adapter to plug it into a 120V / 15 amp service using a looooong extension cord. Battery charger on, went back a couple of days later, Robert's my Uncle, hatch opened, Sea Flush installed, 5 gallon pail filled to the brim, three extra 1 gallon jugs of pink open and on stand by. Contraption worked as advertised.

Learned a couple of things. Bungee cords on the Sea Flush were too short to loop around the strainer in/out pipes like in their vids. Had to improvise by looping one around a ground wire (?) on one side and the other around something else that escapes memory.

Secondly, it's definitely a two-handed kit. One to keep the snorkel pressed firmly into the installed shop vac adapter to maintain leak free suction when the engine is pulling pink. The other hand is needed to grab and pour opened standby jugs into the pail as the pink is being drawn down. Even better would be someone the size of a 10 year old squatting against the transom to assist pouring opened jugs in the pail while your free hand makes sure the end of the snorkel is well positioned at the bottom of the pail.

Obviously, someone with good hearing, a sense of humour and an eye on the engine compartment needs to be at the helm starting and turning off the engines.

Lastly, in a perfect world, there would be a pal on the hard to signal success to the helm and collect pink in a pail vs having it splash on the ground.

Then, onto the A/C which I'd already tried to winterize pouring pink thru a funnel into the sea strainer. Less than successful as mentioned earlier in the thread since pink only shot out of the port side forward hull fitting and nothing from the starboard fittings. Didn't want to risk losing the salon or cockpit units to winter freeze so I decided to invest in more pink.

Again, next year, ideally 4 folks on duty. One in the bilge pressing and holding the snorkel in the shop vac adapter with the Sea Flush installed in the strainer. One person above to push the end of the snorkel into a jug of pink (perfect fit for jugs I bought), turn then jug upside down. They will have to wiggle the jug to break the suction from the snorkel as pink is sucked down (that's when the snorkel kept popping out). The 3rd person is at the panel in the salon to switch the A/C system on, and power up / power down the stateroom, salon and cockpit A/C units one at a time on command. I set all units beforehand to 80° F on the heat setting since its only 40° here now.

Any deviation from my suggested scenario will result in the snorkel being pushed out of the Sea Flush each time you introduce a new jug as when another empties, with pink spilling into the bilge. The forward bilge pump will come to the rescue by pushing expensive pink out the side. Not a good plan.

I suggest having 5 or more jugs opened and ready for the A/C work before you winterize the engines. That way, what you don't use for the A/C is ready for dumping in the pail for the engines.

Lastly, your suggestion of back flushing is one I will follow in the Spring for absolute sure. Perhaps even push Barnacle Buster after that, too. Why? Because when I reopened the A/C strainer yesterday the pink I'd used in my 1st attempt last week came spilling and it had a bunch of crud in it.

Anyway, I suggest the 3 hull fittings for the A/C units need to be plugged two at a time to make sure pink flows thru the system for each unit. Again, having a 4th person on the hard, taking gentle orders to plug/unplug the fittings in order will save huge amounts of time and shield everyone from unnecessary verbal abuse.

BTW, did the Genset the ol'school way a couple of weeks ago using a funnel. It, too, will get the Sea Flush love next winter, for sure.

Next up, test all batteries in the Spring and replace whichever one(s) let me down this time. Find the source of the coolant leak on the forward side of the port engine. Swap out the props for identical ones since I kissed a rock 48 hours after delivery. Chit happens, nes pas?

Many thanks to you, Jaybeaux, and to so many others here in this invaluable forum. Hope my experience helps someone else ways I've been helped.

This is my contraption built similar from a friend who is a member on this forum. It’s practically a one man job but one person at the helm makes sure you get every bit of AF from the container. I also picked up one of these for running AF through the gen and ac strainers. Works like a champ.
https://www.amazon.com/Trac-Ecological-Flushing-F-groco-1000-1250/dp/B01C04HAN8

 

[Tomco]

I watched the mechanic do the engine winterization last season and follow his process myself this year. Similar to Irie's picture, it involves a large rubbermaid container and a piece of 2" hose. Removed the outlet hose from the strainer, connected the extension hose and placed it in the container with 6gal of AF - ran the engines for about 15sec and done. Was able to do it myself. After watching him last season, it was just too simple!

I like Irie's set up to the top of the strainer, would save a step. Might modify mine accordingly.

For the AC units, had the same challenge trying to get the AC pump to prime. Instead I've been using a shop vac to suck AF thru the lines - just connect to the outside thru hull. I also do this on the bilge pump lines to ensure there is no water in the line after the check valve.

 

[brewster16]

This is my contraption built similar from a friend who is a member on this forum. It’s practically a one man job but one person at the helm makes sure you get every bit of AF from the container. I also picked up one of these for running AF through the gen and ac strainers. Works like a champ.
https://www.amazon.com/Trac-Ecological-Flushing-F-groco-1000-1250/dp/B01C04HAN8
View attachment 94350

Interesting.....sure would like to see a breakdown of all the parts to make that system easy for others to reproduce.

 

[brewster16]

This is my contraption built similar from a friend who is a member on this forum. It’s practically a one man job but one person at the helm makes sure you get every bit of AF from the container. I also picked up one of these for running AF through the gen and ac strainers. Works like a champ.
https://www.amazon.com/Trac-Ecological-Flushing-F-groco-1000-1250/dp/B01C04HAN8
View attachment 94350

Interesting.....sure would like to see a breakdown of all the parts to make that system easy for others to reproduce.

 

[Lovichka 420 DA]

Nice write up....you're learning quickly! Two things I would add:

1. When you load test your batteries, make sure you do it one battery at a time and that battery is isolated electricly from the rest. If it tests bad, you should replace the batteries in that bank. In other words, don't buy one brand new battery and put it in service with an older battery. If any batteries are bad, I'd change all of them out at the same time to have a good baseline. A lot of guys, myself included, are putting AGM batteries in. Sam's Club runs a tremendous sale every year. https://www.samsclub.com/p/duracell...nd-rv-battery-group-size-31dtmagm/prod3590232

2. Coolant leak on front of Port engine: I had a small leak on the banjo valve on the turbo. It is on the botton of the turbo and hard to see. I would put a blue shop towel under there to confirm leak. You will need a crush washer if this is in fact the culprit. You will also have to drain a bit of coolant otherwise you need to be VERY quick to not loose all of your coolant. I can't locate the part number at the moment, but I'll keep looking or someone will chime in.

Your words are too kind.

Jaybeaux

Nice write up....you're learning quickly! Two things I would add:

1. When you load test your batteries, make sure you do it one battery at a time and that battery is isolated electricly from the rest. If it tests bad, you should replace the batteries in that bank. In other words, don't buy one brand new battery and put it in service with an older battery. If any batteries are bad, I'd change all of them out at the same time to have a good baseline. A lot of guys, myself included, are putting AGM batteries in. Sam's Club runs a tremendous sale every year. https://www.samsclub.com/p/duracell...nd-rv-battery-group-size-31dtmagm/prod3590232

2. Coolant leak on front of Port engine: I had a small leak on the banjo valve on the turbo. It is on the botton of the turbo and hard to see. I would put a blue shop towel under there to confirm leak. You will need a crush washer if this is in fact the culprit. You will also have to drain a bit of coolant otherwise you need to be VERY quick to not loose all of your coolant. I can't locate the part number at the moment, but I'll keep looking or someone will chime in.

Your words are too kind.

Jaybeaux

No Sam's Club here in Canada, but I did by total chance come across 2 AGM Quicksilver Batteries @ 40% off at a Dock Shoppe moving sale. $300 a piece CDN, which is about $230 US. Hope I didn't hornswoggled