420 DA Thread

Captsteve427 said:
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Is your B60 nema 2000? That is probably your issue. Check the wire diagram on the Airmar site. I am betting is it old nema 0183 and or not connected. I recently swapped out to a new nema 2000 airmar and I get the reading now. I called them and found out it fits in the same mount and swapped it out.
 
It has to be….. it’s a 2015 model that was installed by the PO. It’s still available to purchase today and says it’s for use with my 7612 chart plotters.
Although it’s an entry level unit, description states it’s a dual frequency transducer, offering depth and water temp.
331CB0E9-2BD1-452A-A2B1-1E263E4A1617.jpeg
 
Well I'm officially about to throw my 9kw onan overboard. What I thought was a worn out cockpit ac unit is starting to look like a under powerd generator. I was getting lo ac fault code out of my cockpit ac unit it looked rough so I replaced it. Still getting the same code out of the new one. I have to turn basically everything off to be able to run both salon and cockpit ac at the same time. Take the cockpit ac out of the picture and I can run hot water heater, battery charger,salon ac and master ac no problem. It runs flawless other then this. What is everyone able to run off there generator. Am I asking to much out of it. I realy don't want to upsize my generator but I realy enjoy my cockpit ac. Any feedback would be appreciated.
 
Rakelly33 said:
Well I'm officially about to throw my 9kw onan overboard. What I thought was a worn out cockpit ac unit is starting to look like a under powerd generator. I was getting lo ac fault code out of my cockpit ac unit it looked rough so I replaced it. Still getting the same code out of the new one. I have to turn basically everything off to be able to run both salon and cockpit ac at the same time. Take the cockpit ac out of the picture and I can run hot water heater, battery charger,salon ac and master ac no problem. It runs flawless other then this. What is everyone able to run off there generator. Am I asking to much out of it. I realy don't want to upsize my generator but I realy enjoy my cockpit ac. Any feedback would be appreciated.
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We never had a low voltage issue with running all off the generator at the same time.

If it's only ever the cockpit AC that shows lo AC, I would suspect the wiring is partially to blame.

When you run the cockpit AC and have all else running what does the panel show for voltage? Is it lower than when it is off? if so by how much?

When all is running how many amps are being pulled?
 
Captsteve427 said:
It has to be….. it’s a 2015 model that was installed by the PO. It’s still available to purchase today and says it’s for use with my 7612 chart plotters.
Although it’s an entry level unit, description states it’s a dual frequency transducer, offering depth and water temp. View attachment 132691
Click to expand...

Where does this plug into?
 
I assume it plugs into one of my chart plotters, which are connected on a NEMA backbone, along with my 502 Vesselview & Link.
 
Captsteve427 said:
I assume it plugs into one of my chart plotters, which are connected on a NEMA backbone, along with my 502 Vesselview & Link.
Click to expand...

I would figure out where it's connected. If you can't see temp on that device it's unlikely to show up on N2K. It could just be that the wrong transducer is selected on the device it's connected to.
 
Captsteve427 said:
I replaced the factory tube light with an blue LED strip purchased from SuperBrightLEDs.com. I connected it directly to the dash dimmer switch and adhered it with a wide/long strip on double sided 3M tape, but left one side of the backing tape on. I also used the same stripe lighting to replace the faulty LED strip that wraps around the bed valance in the forward stateroom, using the same tape, which also worked out great..
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So if I run the LED strip behind the dash/labels I should be good? Does the LED strip power on always or just when navigation toggle is engaged? Can you explain the connection to power and switch (navigation and or dimmer) in a little more detail? Thanks
 
@brewster16 It should power on when the Running Lights toggle is on. Some Carling Switches have an indicator light on them..like the running light switch. When the switch is actuated, a jumper on the switch gives power to the light. I would assume that you could use this for power to the LED strip. My guess is that’s how it came from Sea Ray.

https://images.app.goo.gl/TKEzbJvQokMQQFkv5

Jaybeaux
 
Captsteve427 said:
I replaced the factory tube light with an blue LED strip purchased from SuperBrightLEDs.com. I connected it directly to the dash dimmer switch and adhered it with a wide/long strip on double sided 3M tape, but left one side of the backing tape on. I also used the same stripe lighting to replace the faulty LED strip that wraps around the bed valance in the forward stateroom, using the same tape, which also worked out great..
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Great idea on the dash lighting. I already purchased the LED for stateroom light replacement. Did you remove the bolster around the bed? My existing light rope is tight to the wall and no access to wiring.

Thanks
 
Three Seasons said:
Great idea on the dash lighting. I already purchased the LED for stateroom light replacement. Did you remove the bolster around the bed? My existing light rope is tight to the wall and no access to wiring.

Thanks
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Yes you need to remove bolster….. just a few screws
 
brewster16 said:
So if I run the LED strip behind the dash/labels I should be good? Does the LED strip power on always or just when navigation toggle is engaged? Can you explain the connection to power and switch (navigation and or dimmer) in a little more detail? Thanks
Click to expand...

The dash lights go on when you switch the running lights on. All you need to do is disconnect the wires from the dimmer switch that the old light was connected to and connect the new LED strip wires to it.
 
swaterhouse said:
In my case it was. My hose was obviously cracked and dry rotted.

If your chasing vacuum issues stop guessing and buy the vacuum test kit. You can isolate different parts of the system and test independently.
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As a follow up to my vacuflush "cycling" problem.....the bellows is accessed by removing 8 screws that hold the "pump top" to the"pump body." In my case one of the 8 screws was spinning/stripped thus losing pressure on the all important O ring seal. Therefore no vacuum could be maintained. Do NOT overtighten those screws or you too will strip them! In fact, don't over tighten ANYTHING in the vacuum system.
 
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brewster16 said:
As a follow up to my vacuflush "cycling" problem.....the bellows is accessed by removing 8 screws that hold the "pump top" to the"pump body." In my case one of the screws was spinning/stripped thus losing pressure on the all important O ring seal. Therefore no vacuum could be maintained. Do NOT overtighten those screws or you too will stip them! In fact, don't over tighten ANYTHING in the vacuum system.
Click to expand...

You are spot on! Let the o-rings do what they are designed to do.

Bennett
 
The 9KW generator is not overloaded. I have the same one and have powered everything, including all 3 air conditioners, the stove and other amp sucking accessories all at the same time….no issues.
 
Captsteve427 said:
The dash lights go on when you switch the running lights on. All you need to do is disconnect the wires from the dimmer switch that the old light was connected to and connect the new LED strip wires to it.
Click to expand...
Regarding the attachment to the dimmer switch…should I be ordering any sort of “connector” or simply the pigtail version? Also, I am assuming a single LED blue row in 12VDC with 3M backing tape is correct?
 
An LED stripe in 12VDC and pigtail lead is sufficient. An LED strip with backing tape will not work since the lights have to face the switch board to illuminate the wording above each switch. I adhered 3M tape, that was wider than LED strip, to the backside of the stripe to hold it in place.
 
I'm looking forward to doing this light replacement. The backlight has been getting dimmer and dimmer for a long time. Not even a faint blue backlight at this point!
 
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