420 DA Thread

05 420 DA
To start, I did a search but didn’t come up with the answer.
Tacking one issue at a time. A quick question regarding the factory stereo.
Cabin speakers work fine. I use the cockpit switch on the starboard entry and nothing happening. I did check for power at the switch and have power going to the switch and and out.
I would guess that there is a separate amp for the cockpit speakers.
Do not have any type of wiring diagrams.
Any help would be great.
Regards,
Matt
 
As fate would have it, my dock neighbors are selling their ‘06 48 DA, the stars are aligning.

I love the 48's and they're the perfect upgrade from a 420/44. It's amazing how much bigger the 48 feels than the 44 especially in the cockpit. Congrats!
 
05 420 DA
To start, I did a search but didn’t come up with the answer.
Tacking one issue at a time. A quick question regarding the factory stereo.
Cabin speakers work fine. I use the cockpit switch on the starboard entry and nothing happening. I did check for power at the switch and have power going to the switch and and out.
I would guess that there is a separate amp for the cockpit speakers.
Do not have any type of wiring diagrams.
Any help would be great.
Regards,
Matt

Did you locate the amps behind the salon couch backrest?
 
05 420 DA
To start, I did a search but didn’t come up with the answer.
Tacking one issue at a time. A quick question regarding the factory stereo.
Cabin speakers work fine. I use the cockpit switch on the starboard entry and nothing happening. I did check for power at the switch and have power going to the switch and and out.
I would guess that there is a separate amp for the cockpit speakers.
Do not have any type of wiring diagrams.
Any help would be great.
Regards,
Matt

You'll probably find that the wire (white/blue) leading from the switch to the amp that was/is powering the cockpit amp is no longer connected. That wire turns the amp on/off when the switch is toggled.
 
See below diagram
 

Attachments

  • Sea Ray 420 Sundancer Stereo Wiring Diagram-1.pdf
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On the boat with an. iPad. For whatever reason, I can’t download the diagram.
However, I found both fuses on the amp blown. I replaced them and the cockpit speakers started working and sounded fine.
That was short lived. They quit in a few minutes and did not return.
Now, when the cabin and cockpit are on together, there is a clicking sound in the in the salon speakers..
Goofy.
Any ideas would be great.
Thanks
 

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So, I’m guessing the Clarion APX 480m amp is toast. My knowledge of stereo is below nill. Has anyone on the board found replacement amps that are basically plug and play?
Thanks again
 
Just ordered the Kicker amp from Crutchfield. Purchased an in line fuse and fuse holder as well.
One additional question. Is the amp presently getting it’s power direct from the battery from the factory?
 
Just ordered the Kicker amp from Crutchfield. Purchased an in line fuse and fuse holder as well.
One additional question. Is the amp presently getting it’s power direct from the battery from the factory?

Good question, I just disconnected the wires from the old amp and reconnected them to the new amp. Now you have me wondering whether or not the power circuit is fused and it's probably not, since the old amp had built-in fuses and the Kicker doesn't.
 
Still wrestling with my forward head….. the mechanic thinks it’s the rubber seal from the hose going into the tank….it leaking. Does anyone have the model number of that pump?…… he is saying its obsolete and might have to replace the whole unit. I can’t believe that…… but my manuals are at home so can’t get a parts list
 
So they found and replaced the grommet….. still leaking …now its the hose. If you look under the salon couch there is a connection there….so we agreed to just do half the hose ……. I can do the forward section when I need to.
Any of you guys replace the aft section…..anything to look out for?….. this is the master head
 
I did the aft head myself, then looked at the forward head and said no way I am cramming myself in there!

They replaced from the coupler to the vacuum generator and I had already replaced from generator to holding tank. I think it was 2 guys for 2 hours.

The hose inside the boat was in good condition, it was the parts in the engine room that were bad.
 
I did the aft head myself, then looked at the forward head and said no way I am cramming myself in there!

They replaced from the coupler to the vacuum generator and I had already replaced from generator to holding tank. I think it was 2 guys for 2 hours.

The hose inside the boat was in good condition, it was the parts in the engine room that were bad.
When you say "bad hose" what do you mean? Were there visible splits with sewage leaking or air sucking??? How does one know the sewage hose is the culprit when there is a vacuum leak somewhere?
 
When you say "bad hose" what do you mean? Were there visible splits with sewage leaking or air sucking??? How does one know the sewage hose is the culprit when there is a vacuum leak somewhere?
In my case the hose has a substantial bend going into the pump. The hose was cracked on the bend. The mechanic lifted the hose to close the cracks and the pump got pressure and stopped
 
That’s interesting….I’ve been so focused on duck bills, bellows and O rings that I never even thought about the sanitation hose as a vacuum culprit.
 
I have replaced both sanitation hoses on a 420 and a 44. The biggest problem is Sea Ray used large amounts of silicone sealer where the hose passes through the bulk head. Of course this was done before the interior was installed! As mentioned in an earlier post you need to cram yourself into a very tight place and cut the sealer loose to be able to remove the hose. I found after removing what I could, twisting the hose until it breaks free was the best plan.
 

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