brewster16
Well-Known Member
Our J pump has four 2 inch duckbill valves. They are sold in pairs for a stupid price. See my post #2655
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Mine are 1-1/2” so better check your parts manual or measureWhat size duckbills are needed, might as well change those also ?
Im sure Blueone knows what he needed for his boat. There may be a lot of variation form model to model and year to year. If I were you I'd go look at the label down on your pump cover. There you will find the exact specs and model numbers for the parts (including duckbill valves) you will need to do the job. My 2007 44DA took four 2 inch duckbillsWhat size duckbills are needed, might as well change those also ?
The duckbills were 1 1/2”, very easy to replace all 4 for master head pump. There ended up being a blockage in the line, took 6 hours to get it freed up !Mine are 1-1/2” so better check your parts manual or measure
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Yes many say that except for those 48 Sundancer owners.... they start stuttering when asked if the 420 is the best boat everBe nice to her, and she'll be nice to you. Fire away with any questions. Lots of info on this thread. You got a GREAT boat. Many say the best platform Sea Ray ever produced.
Jaybeaux
Replace starboard batteries two weeks ago, port batteries seemed fine. Couple of days later, fired up both engines, but the voltmeter for port is bouncing between 8 and 14 volts. Up and down, repeat. Added some revs, helped. After 10 - 15 minutes on the water all was normal.
Any suggestions?
Diesels?
That is normal. There are heaters that cycle on/ off until operating temp is reached. You likely never noticed before. Both sides will do it regardless of battery age.
New batteries or old batteries. A tired or abused battery will sag lower in voltage under load. Suggest to have them load tested....Fully understood. Well aware of how that appears. Perfectly normal until now. Difference is, the voltmeter for the starboard moves as usual from 10 to 14 due to the heaters. The needle on the port voltmeter and on the panel in the salon swings from 8 to 16, the entire range......and after 15 minutes, it fine. A head scratcher for me.
Oh a the first time, the Smartcraft panel was screaming a fault until the meter settled downbut today, the 2nd time out, it didn't.
Fully understood. Well aware of how that appears. Perfectly normal until now. Difference is, the voltmeter for the starboard moves as usual from 10 to 14 due to the heaters. The needle on the port voltmeter and on the panel in the salon swings from 8 to 16, the entire range......and after 15 minutes, it fine. A head scratcher for me.
Oh a the first time, the Smartcraft panel was screaming a fault until the meter settled downbut today, the 2nd time out, it didn't.
If your batteries were super weak before they were changed the alternator may be damaged. Weak batteries are tough on alternators.
Great suggestion. Before I reach for my wallet, is there a simple way to test the alternator?
I have the Kohler 10EG Generator (GM motor), looking for a part number for the impeller, I found the 10E (ford motor) but not sure if it's the same. Thanks for any help you can provide. JAM
ok we know it’s the low coolant code, but I have no idea how to add the coolant. The only spot I see is the main cap and I’m sure that can’t be right, unless it can purge itself. Anyone have experience with this particular generator, sorry about the new guy issue here.
If your batteries were super weak before they were changed the alternator may be damaged. Weak batteries are tough on alternators.