420/44 DB Owners Club

I’m planning to add this to the edge of the ER hatch door in the cockpit. The edges takes a beating from grinding against debris, sand etc. has anyone else tried similar?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08FM5NB61?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

Let us know how it does

 

Thinking of the cockpit engine room hatch and drainage. Would this edge material seal off the flow of water if you ever got a lot of water in the cockpit.

I cannot think of why or what condition would cause a lot of water...maybe some bozo blasting through the anchorage and you get a big wave over the stern with the door open. The slope of the floor would probably drain it all out.

Where do you get wear on the cockpit door?

 

About a year and a half ago, there was a lot of talk about fresh water flush and Salt Away. I want to set up a flush system. Seems like a good preventive measure.

I can plump into the fresh water supply on the boat or use the dock water and thread on my Salt Away injector.

This setup on the cap of the strainer seems like a good way to go. I think I am going to put together a manifold so I can do one engine at a time and also the generator.

What I am trying to figure out is the fitting going through the clear plastic strainer cover. I do not want to try to cut pipe threads as it would likely split the plastic cap. Anyone know of an O-ring type sealing fitting?



Saw this on Sea Board Marine...I think we have the same strainers. I plan on putting the manifold by the cockpit hatch opening so it is easy to operate and to go up to the helm to turn on and off the engines.

Cheers!

 

Where the lip meets the fiberglass of the opening. Interesting thought on drainage. Will hose it down to see how it performs. I leave the cockpit uncovered all season so rain water would a concern.

 

Before we located our 44 DB, we looked at a 2017 400 Fly. It had 1 1/2 inch wide by 2 inch deep drain channels around the cockpit. Couldn't figure out why so large. the ones on the 44 DB and the Sundancer made more sense.

 

Didn't know there was an original strip. Thought it was just an oversight from Sea Ray. If there is I'd much rather use that.

 

I have my sample bottles from Blackstone and just realized I have no idea how to grab a decent sample size.

Is there a sample port on the engine?

Thanks!!

 

You can either drain some using reverso pump after letting it drain a bit to “flush” the line, or get one of the pumps Blackstone sells for that purpose that sucks oil out through dipstick. That’s what I’m doing.

 

Ah, makes sense! I have a little vacuum pump, cannot remember the name of it.

I also have a Harbor Freight oil change vacuum extractor.

I should be covered! Just need more imagination...!!

 

Just make sure you don’t cross contaminate when extracting.

 

That is a really good point. I will get some tubing and dedicate it to the sampling and have one for each engine. I will rinse them out and store them for the next year.

Thanks!

 

This is what I use via the dipstick tube. Makes the job simple, clean and quick. It works with the Blackstone sample bottles. I cut the hose to length as needed. About 10 inches longer than the dipstick and discard when done. You can get more hose when needed from Home Depot.

Oil Analysis Premier Sample Pump by Under My Hood - Including Live Port and Storage Case https://a.co/d/gACtwTY

 

For $40, Blackstone sells this pump:

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/products/vacuum-pump/

It mitigates cross-contamination and eliminates the need to "clean" anything between samples. You just thow away the piece of tubing used to collect the sample. Very clean and you KNOW that you have a good sample.

Just my $0.02

Jaybeaux

 

Thanks Irie and Jaybeaux!

 

Has anyone find a good location for the temp sensor for the forward stateroom? Have found that the factory location at the foot of the bed is not the best as the temp is always cooler down low.

 

On our 44DB and now on our 420DA, I removed it from in front of the unit and pulled the wire with the sensor on it out through the gap between the padded bolster and the mattress. I attached it to the underside of the bolster. That was all the length I had. It works fine. Much better than in front of the return on the unit.

Bennett

 

Here are some pictures of my Cockpit enclosure project. The door and the two access panels to the walkways are on sliders. They work really nice.

The eyebrow is up as high as possible so you do not have to duck down to see out.

 

Here is the door and the access panels: