420/44 DB Owners Club

I think the only downside may be getting the last little bit of "crap" off of the very bottom of the case. I used the vacuum extractor for the 3-4 years we owned the QSCs and never an issue. If I had to do it all over again, I would have drained it with the extractor, removed the drain plug and inserted a fitting with a hose on it. Next time, hook up to the hose and pull the fluid out of the drain. This is what I have done on the current ones.

As for the interval, we are on a freshwater lake and typically put 50-75 hours on the boat/year. I always change when purchased and then change them every other year. Fluid always looked new and never anything on the filter/magnet.

Bennett

Bennett
I'm thinking that this is a good idea! Could either just let the hose hang loose and connect to the extractor when needed or plumb it into the Reverco line for the engine drain (with a valve on each line).

As for the 'last bit', given the volume of oil (around a gallon) vs the residual in a drain hose, I'm not too worried about a very small percentage of old oil going back in. For me, making it easier to do, I'll do it when I change the engine oil ... which will be more frequent than I'm doing it now!:)
 
Has anyone purchased or fabricated a stainless bow protection plate ? I have a Rocna vulcan anchor with Mantus swivel and no matter how careful I am the point of the anchor sometimes hits the bow.
 
I did a search, it seems there are a few generic ones available for small boats. I do not think they would work.

I wonder if you could use some cardboard to mock up the size and angle you want and take the template to a sheet metal shop for them to put in a brake to bend. One issue may be that if the bow line is curved (I think it is), the sheet steel will not lay up against the bow. Fabricating a compound curve is more difficult. It may have to be made in two pieces and welded together, ground and polished. Far more work then a simple bend a curve in the middle.

Sounds like, according to the prefab type ones available, that you clean and scuff the gel coat and epoxy the guard on.
 
Has anyone purchased or fabricated a stainless bow protection plate ? I have a Rocna vulcan anchor with Mantus swivel and no matter how careful I am the point of the anchor sometimes hits the bow.
Which Vulcan size did you go with?
 
  • Like
Reactions: AEO
I think you both have answered my question - that you can use a vacuum extractor to change the oil. I wasn't sure if the tube would reach the bottom or get hung up on the gears.

As for interval, the user manual states to change the oil every 250hrs (or annually) and to clean the suction filter every 250hrs (or 6 mths).

Which transmission did they switch to in late 2004 that only has a 250-hour oil interval?
 
I have the 44 lb. Best anchor I ever had, sleep like a baby
Went with the Rocna 44 with the roll bar. I wanted the Vulcan but was afraid of what you’re describing.
 
May be a silly question but any idea why the failure rate of the alternators appears to be so high? I’m assuming engine hours isn’t a factor but

I picked up my alternators from the rebuild shop today. It was what he said it was going to be, the brush holder assembly. He said the copper corrodes from the salty air which is why they tend to fail around the same time. Seems to be a $20 part. This sounds like what happened to Mark as well. I guess if one goes down you should have the other serviced as well.

upload_2022-10-6_20-46-18.jpeg
 
What is your favorite engine room heater/oil pan heater?

I do not have one and there is not any 110V in the ER yet. I will add a second dedicated outlet when I run the circuit for the water maker.

I have heard good things about the oil pan heaters but I wonder if heating the entire ER might be better with all of the water pumps ect down there.

On the 380 DA, there was an XTreme heater and it did the job. I am leaning that direction but am open to other ideas.

Cheers!

Edit: I should add that it never get very cold here...nobody pulls their boats out and very occasionally there is some ice on the surface. The water temp is 45 deg or so and the air temp is in the 20s but just for a few days.
 
Last edited:
What is your favorite engine room heater/oil pan heater?

I do not have one and there is not any 110V in the ER yet. I will add a second dedicated outlet when I run the circuit for the water maker.

I have heard good things about the oil pan heaters but I wonder if heating the entire ER might be better with all of the water pumps ect down there.

On the 380 DA, there was an XTreme heater and it did the job. I am leaning that direction but am open to other ideas.

Cheers!
I use the wolverine oil pan heater from Seaboard. Oddly enough the one on my port motor died twice. Followed install instructions to the letter both units stopped working after a few months. The star one has been fine. I order a replacement from amazon this time. Will see how it goes. I installed a dedicated circuit and outlet in the bilge. Also use a smart Wi-Fi outlet adapter so that i can schedule on and off times as well as remotely turn them on and off.
 
I have pan heaters and love them for keeping the motors warm and removing humidity in the e/r. If you’re looking for heat to keep things from freezing though, I don’t think they will do it. The engine blocks are warm to touch but other equipment in the e/r is not. I use the pan heaters in season and winterize off season.
 
What is your favorite engine room heater/oil pan heater?

I do not have one and there is not any 110V in the ER yet. I will add a second dedicated outlet when I run the circuit for the water maker.

I have heard good things about the oil pan heaters but I wonder if heating the entire ER might be better with all of the water pumps ect down there.

On the 380 DA, there was an XTreme heater and it did the job. I am leaning that direction but am open to other ideas.

Cheers!

Edit: I should add that it never get very cold here...nobody pulls their boats out and very occasionally there is some ice on the surface. The water temp is 45 deg or so and the air temp is in the 20s but just for a few days.

I have a 1000w BoatSafe heater and a 450watt XTreme heater. Your water temp gets somewhat lower than ours, but I only use the big one unless it is going way down for 2 days or more. Most years I don't think it ever comes on. Our water temp will get down into the mid-40s. I have never measured it, but I swear is seems like the ER on my 420DA has more cubic feet than when we had the 44DB....just my 4).02...

Bennett
 
I used the Mantus swivel, it’s like a ball and socket so the anchor can spin around easily as it’s being hauled up.
I use he same swivel. When the anchor is up how much far is it from the hull?
 
Hi Bob, I have the same boat/engines and do my maintenance.
1. Correct, following oil change procedures (running to temp) when replacing the filter you would fill the new one with fresh oil. For reference, I use the LF9009 filters.
2,3. Each year I use the Cummins coolant test strips to test the coolant first - it will provide guidance if a filter with a higher SCA is required. Last time I changed mine I did NOT fill it first. I just made sure there was sufficient coolant in the reservoir.
4. Just changed mine yesterday! yes, they need to be filled with clean fuel when installing and no the flow valve on the tank does not need to be closed (it does if you change the racers). You want to avoid any air in the system, otherwise you will need to bleed the lines. I've been fortunate that filling it to overflow level and carefully installing it I've not had to bleed the lines.
5. ditto
6. I change mine. You will need the extractor tool (or appropriate sized bolt) and installation is made much easier with an installation tool (this is the one I have: www.impellertool.com). The stbd side is pretty straightforward the port is more challenging. I find that removing the pump (2 bolts) and 'folding' the hose back over on itself puts the impeller facing straight up and easier to change than doing it blind.

Good luck with the maintenance ... its not hard, you will feel more comfortable after doing it once.
29B89213-4DC7-4689-A0DE-9F51A87575D3.jpeg
7154894D-AD5D-43ED-AD49-C1C8D486424C.jpeg

Any idea where the black rubber gasket (?) goes?
 
Those are your fuel filters. They go on the threaded nipple before you screw the filters on. Make sure you remove the old ones.

Bennett
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,079
Messages
1,425,543
Members
61,006
Latest member
CameronWest
Back
Top