420/44 DB Owners Club

Carpediem44DB said:
I was considering that type of mod to Carpe Diem but I was going to put the transom locker on rails and just have it be able to slide aft 18 or so inches when more room was desirable. I probably would have done it if it were not for the fact that I had dual cable master retractable shore cables installed and relocating them was to big a PITA. Can't wait for the final pics!
Click to expand...
It was a big decision. Once that first cut starts there’s no going back! But comments so far have been how much extra room it makes and how much it opens it up. My instructions to the shipwrights was “it must look factory”. I’ll definitely keep you updated. It will probably make it feel like a 48 footer. Amazing boat the 44DB
 
Last edited:
Flix2 said:
How to tie down the dinghy? I feel like an idiot. There's got to be easier ways.

My boat came with a Sealift with a 3-ft platform. The width is about 2 ft shorter than the transom on each side. I read about 6-point tie down but can't figure how to do this without having to jump into the water and trying hook the straps and passing them over the dinghy. There is no rooms underneath the dinghy once it's on the brackets. I can't even put the cover it on without falling into the water. Another question is securing the bow and stern. Am I OK to crank it tight to the platform as shown in the picture? I worry about ripping the platform apart in rough water.
View attachment 103514
View attachment 103515
Flix
Click to expand...

I posted some pics of mine for your info. We have the same chocks
 

Attachments

  • F4615F22-5B2A-4262-A56F-265A907FF8DC.jpeg
    F4615F22-5B2A-4262-A56F-265A907FF8DC.jpeg
    111.3 KB · Views: 127
  • DC0AD37E-9EDF-4C20-B1E2-C85EA2612B18.png
    DC0AD37E-9EDF-4C20-B1E2-C85EA2612B18.png
    891.1 KB · Views: 108
  • 73FE9885-C940-4686-BC49-CBE1F9ACAE94.jpeg
    73FE9885-C940-4686-BC49-CBE1F9ACAE94.jpeg
    100.7 KB · Views: 95
Last edited:
LG111 said:
I had the same set up. Here is all you need. Ratchet the bow one D ring. Ratchet the stern - cross to two D rings.

Now here is the key. The swim step D ring (dingy bow end) run a line with a carabiner on both ends premeasured to the D ring on the stern of the dingy, where you want the dink to always set.. The line becomes a break, stopping it in the exact location every time. Now Ratchet the stern tight, that tightens the break so the dingy can NOT slide port or starboard. Last, Ratchet and snug the bow down.
The break line locks the dink from moving. And easy to set the dink same location every time.
Click to expand...
Reread this and I think I got it. Clip the break line on the dinks's bow ring and drive it on to the platform. This sets the dink in the chosen spot. Thank you!
 
AEO said:
I posted some pics of mine for your info. We have the same chocks
Click to expand...
A pic is worth a thousand words. This really helps me with the locations to install the new D-rings. Do you have to remove the grab rails before putting on the dinghy? Your platform looks wider than mine (3 ft). My dinghy hangs out 1ft from the edge.
 
brewster16 said:
Flix....can I make another suggestion? Once you've ratcheted to your D-rings, consider 2 simple bungie cords between your dinghy handles (or whatever is solidly mounted to your dinghy) and the grab rail on your aft locker which has backing plates already installed on it. Ive been doing it for years and I don't have to mess with the water side of the dinghy...it's not going anywhere. Additionally any movement of the dinghy in rough waters will be nicely attenuated by the bungie cords. The aft locker DOES NOT support any of the weight or stress of the dinghy.
Click to expand...
That makes things simple. Sure hate to fall off the back of boat every time I try to secure the sides of the dinghy.
 
The saga of shore power.

I have only one 30-amp and one 110v 15-amp outlets on my dock. My boat only has a 50 amp inlet directly connected to the heavy long cord with a 50-amp plug on the shore end. I installed the 30 to 50 amp adapter as recommended but the isolation transformer (pic below) blocks the current from getting to the boat. Is there anything I can do just to charge my battereies? I don't plan to use any of the 240v appliances (AC & heat etc). I am working on getting 50 amp shore power but it takes time with this county.

Flix
iso.jpg
 
Flix2 said:
The saga of shore power.

I have only one 30-amp and one 110v 15-amp outlets on my dock. My boat only has a 50 amp inlet directly connected to the heavy long cord with a 50-amp plug on the shore end. I installed the 30 to 50 amp adapter as recommended but the isolation transformer (pic below) blocks the current from getting to the boat. Is there anything I can do just to charge my battereies? I don't plan to use any of the 240v appliances (AC & heat etc). I am working on getting 50 amp shore power but it takes time with this county.

Flix
View attachment 103623
Click to expand...
Run your generator to charge the batteries and make sure all is shut down before you leave. As you have found, you wont be able to use ANY of your electrical devices from shore power with that setup.
 
boaterholic said:
Perfect! Thanks for link. Can you tell me if on the bungie part is the 6 5/8” correct length for ours because I will need to replace 2 or 3 of them? I assume they just pry apart and pop off to swap out?
Click to expand...

Easiest way I've seen to replace:
 
Flix2 said:
The saga of shore power.

I have only one 30-amp and one 110v 15-amp outlets on my dock. My boat only has a 50 amp inlet directly connected to the heavy long cord with a 50-amp plug on the shore end. I installed the 30 to 50 amp adapter as recommended but the isolation transformer (pic below) blocks the current from getting to the boat. Is there anything I can do just to charge my battereies? I don't plan to use any of the 240v appliances (AC & heat etc). I am working on getting 50 amp shore power but it takes time with this county.

Flix
View attachment 103623
Click to expand...
Here is a possible Hack to get you by, find the power supply cord into the charger/ chargers. Temporarily install standard 110 plugs and plug them in to a surge protector plug strip and run a good extension cord to your 110 v outlet on the dock. Is it Kosher? perhaps not. Others may chime in as to how this might be problematic with regard to polarity and lack of ground isolation but might be a solution until you get your power situation taken care of. I would strongly urge changing to two 30 amp services depending on where you plan to boat and spend time away from your home dock. Most docks that accommodate your size boat will have 30 amp service anyway. My Carver 506 has two 50 amp inlets if I want to run the entire boat. I have one 50 amp outlet on my dock and my marina says they can't install a second in the same box as the wiring would not handle the load. I would not want to rely on running the generator to keep the batteries up myself.
Cheers
Carpe Diem
 
Flix2 said:
The saga of shore power.

I have only one 30-amp and one 110v 15-amp outlets on my dock. My boat only has a 50 amp inlet directly connected to the heavy long cord with a 50-amp plug on the shore end. I installed the 30 to 50 amp adapter as recommended but the isolation transformer (pic below) blocks the current from getting to the boat. Is there anything I can do just to charge my battereies? I don't plan to use any of the 240v appliances (AC & heat etc). I am working on getting 50 amp shore power but it takes time with this county.

Flix
View attachment 103623
Click to expand...
Flix2,
I see that you list your location as "S Ca." Is that Southern California? I had the same issues you were dealing with at Shoreline Marina in Long Beach. After talking with other people there and their shore power problems, I ended up moving to another location with better service.
 
Flix2 said:
The saga of shore power.

I have only one 30-amp and one 110v 15-amp outlets on my dock. My boat only has a 50 amp inlet directly connected to the heavy long cord with a 50-amp plug on the shore end. I installed the 30 to 50 amp adapter as recommended but the isolation transformer (pic below) blocks the current from getting to the boat. Is there anything I can do just to charge my battereies? I don't plan to use any of the 240v appliances (AC & heat etc). I am working on getting 50 amp shore power but it takes time with this county.

Flix
View attachment 103623
Click to expand...
Wither or not you have 240 volt appliances the isolation transformer requires the two 120 volt out of phase feeds which together is 240 volts to operate (L1 and L2 in your picture). The isolation transformer then on the secondary side creates the 120 and 240 volt supply as well as the grounds for the boat's loads. There is no other way to operate the boat unless you re-wire the battery charger to operate from an extension cord. In the situation you are in I would probably set up a portable drag-on battery charger that can plug in to the 120 volt shore power 15 amp outlet. The good thing about good quality battery chargers is there is no need to disconnect anything existing from the battery banks; just connect the drag-on battery charger. Make sure what every you get for the battery charger that it supports for multiple battery banks as well supplement as a power supply. The only thing to caution is current leak to ground as that will erode the boat's metals; that is the basic purpose of the isolation transformer.
 
Last edited:
ttmott said:
Wither or not you have 240 volt appliances the isolation transformer requires the two 120 volt out of phase feeds which together is 240 volts to operate (L1 and L2 in your picture). The isolation transformer then on the secondary side creates the 120 and 240 volt supply as well as the grounds for the boat's loads. There is no other way to operate the boat unless you re-wire the battery charger to operate from an extension cord. In the situation you are in I would probably set up a portable drag-on battery charger that can plug in to the 120 volt shore power 15 amp outlet. The good thing about good quality battery chargers is there is no need to disconnect anything existing from the battery banks; just connect the drag-on battery charger. Make sure what every you get for the battery charger that it supports for multiple battery banks as well supplement as a power supply. The only thing to caution is current leak to ground as that will erode the boat's metals; that is the basic purpose of the isolation transformer.
Click to expand...
I've used a portable charger when the boat is on the hard and there is no shore power around. Worked well.

ttmott, I have travelled with other boats with 240V/50A inlets that have successfully used an adapter to plug into a 30A shore power pedestal at a marina, so I was surprised Flix2's adapter didn't work. Are there different isolation transformers that would support this? One boat I am thinking of, if I remember correctly, was a 2000 or 2001 Sea Ray 460 Sundancer.

Can the same transformer windings not work regardless if they are wired L1-L2 or L-N? This is at the limit of my electrical engineering knowledge!
 
Flix2 said:
A pic is worth a thousand words. This really helps me with the locations to install the new D-rings. Do you have to remove the grab rails before putting on the dinghy? Your platform looks wider than mine (3 ft). My dinghy hangs out 1ft from the edge.
Click to expand...
The hand rails are made by a company called Easy Up and yes, must be removed (best thing I ever bought).

My bow turnbuckle and clip is preset at a fixed length so I pull my dinghy up (similar to winching it up on a trailer) attach the fixed bow turnbuckle (that centers it on the platform) and then I tension it with the stern ratchets. I drop my platform but never submerse it. 2 minute job.
 
Last edited:
I installed a new generator last week, the generator output is 120 volt with a 70 amp single pole breaker. Are you saying shore power is 240 vac while the gen is 120 vac ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,185
Messages
1,428,139
Members
61,094
Latest member
Linword
Back
Top