420/44 DB Owners Club

Try to resist its a big and expensive job. Cheaper than moving across to a 50 or 52 though.
I was considering that type of mod to Carpe Diem but I was going to put the transom locker on rails and just have it be able to slide aft 18 or so inches when more room was desirable. I probably would have done it if it were not for the fact that I had dual cable master retractable shore cables installed and relocating them was to big a PITA. Can't wait for the final pics!
 
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How to tie down the dinghy? I feel like an idiot. There's got to be easier ways.

My boat came with a Sealift with a 3-ft platform. The width is about 2 ft shorter than the transom on each side. I read about 6-point tie down but can't figure how to do this without having to jump into the water and trying hook the straps and passing them over the dinghy. There is no rooms underneath the dinghy once it's on the brackets. I can't even put the cover it on without falling into the water. Another question is securing the bow and stern. Am I OK to crank it tight to the platform as shown in the picture? I worry about ripping the platform apart in rough water.
boat back.jpg

under ding.jpg

Flix
 
If you use the r/w/b light in the cockpit how do you change the color. The ones on the bridge the outside housing turns.
When you turn the light off and back on it changes. They worked great on my other boat
 
How to tie down the dinghy? I feel like an idiot. There's got to be easier ways.

My boat came with a Sealift with a 3-ft platform. The width is about 2 ft shorter than the transom on each side. I read about 6-point tie down but can't figure how to do this without having to jump into the water and trying hook the straps and passing them over the dinghy. There is no rooms underneath the dinghy once it's on the brackets. I can't even put the cover it on without falling into the water. Another question is securing the bow and stern. Am I OK to crank it tight to the platform as shown in the picture? I worry about ripping the platform apart in rough water.
View attachment 103514
View attachment 103515
Flix

Install D-rings with backing plates under the platform and then you can ratchet down the dinghy securely. I also use a bungie cord around the grab rail on the aft locker.
 
Install D-rings with backing plates under the platform and then you can ratchet down the dinghy securely. I also use a bungie cord around the grab rail on the aft locker.
Hey Brewster...what do you secure with the bungie cord on the aft locker? Just as a warning in case you hadn't considered it, I have seen that locker door pull right off by a small kayak that was being pulled by a rope attached to it. I've also seen a video of an entire aft locker module being pulled off!

On my old 300 Sundancer, we had a Dinghy Caddy that was held in position with cleats mounted to that module on either side of the locker door. There is actually very little force on those cleats once hoisted into position but the locker module started to separate from the deck and I had to reinforce with new, heavier brackets. It was held on with tiny little L-brackets...

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It's pretty much the same design on the 44...
 
No problem at all posting your wish list here, The only restriction I know is to use the classifieds section to advertise a boat for sale. You will love the 420/44 Sedan bridge boat if you can find one in your area. Happy hunting.
Carpe Diem
Thank you for the info CD. It is tough finding one for sale, but I did meet a fellow CSR member who has one and was/is thinking of selling in the future. So I have to have hope that I will find one out there that meets our needs. The market is just crazy and if you blink your eye the boat is sold.

I wish I was in better health to use my pilots license to get around to see some of the boats that pop up for sale. Much easier to make an hour flight compared to 4 hours of I-75 and who knows where from there.

TY,
Vince
 
Install D-rings with backing plates under the platform and then you can ratchet down the dinghy securely. I also use a bungie cord around the grab rail on the aft locker.
Great idea! I will install new D-rings which will secure bow and stern. However, I don't know how to bring the straps over the dinghy from the water side to the transom side to secure it laterally. I may have to post this question again.
 
Seeking advice to tie down dinghy!

The are 4 D-rings on the hyraulic platform. I can't pass the straps (nor hook on the rings) from the waterside of the dinghy to the transom side. I tried reaching over to connect the strap and almost tipped the dinghy into the water and not even close to reaching the outer D-rings.

Brewster solved the bow and stern problems for me but I need help with securing the sides. Thank you!

boat back.jpg


Flix
 
Seeking advice to tie down dinghy!

The are 4 D-rings on the hyraulic platform. I can't pass the straps (nor hook on the rings) from the waterside of the dinghy to the transom side. I tried reaching over to connect the strap and almost tipped the dinghy into the water and not even close to reaching the outer D-rings.

Brewster solved the bow and stern problems for me but I need help with securing the sides. Thank you!

View attachment 103553

Flix
If you go to the Hurley Marine website you can see how they secure a dinghy down. It’s a different davit system but same concept. You can also purchase the D rings and straps from them.
 
How to tie down the dinghy? I feel like an idiot. There's got to be easier ways.

My boat came with a Sealift with a 3-ft platform. The width is about 2 ft shorter than the transom on each side. I read about 6-point tie down but can't figure how to do this without having to jump into the water and trying hook the straps and passing them over the dinghy. There is no rooms underneath the dinghy once it's on the brackets. I can't even put the cover it on without falling into the water. Another question is securing the bow and stern. Am I OK to crank it tight to the platform as shown in the picture? I worry about ripping the platform apart in rough water.
View attachment 103514
View attachment 103515
Flix
I had the same set up. Here is all you need. Ratchet the bow one D ring. Ratchet the stern - cross to two D rings.

Now here is the key. The swim step D ring (dingy bow end) run a line with a carabiner on both ends premeasured to the D ring on the stern of the dingy, where you want the dink to always set.. The line becomes a break, stopping it in the exact location every time. Now Ratchet the stern tight, that tightens the break so the dingy can NOT slide port or starboard. Last, Ratchet and snug the bow down.
The break line locks the dink from moving. And easy to set the dink same location every time.
 
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On my new to me 44, I opted for the Presto Hydrolic System. I actually like it better than my old SeaLift system on my previous 410 dancer. Get in launch and go. The chalks lower below the dink prop.
 

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Thank you for the info CD. It is tough finding one for sale, but I did meet a fellow CSR member who has one and was/is thinking of selling in the future. So I have to have hope that I will find one out there that meets our needs. The market is just crazy and if you blink your eye the boat is sold.

I wish I was in better health to use my pilots license to get around to see some of the boats that pop up for sale. Much easier to make an hour flight compared to 4 hours of I-75 and who knows where from there.

TY,
Vince
Lattitude Adjustment, FYI, I sold my 06 44DB in October due to CSR. A new member here, kinda in your position, simply posted a situation that they were facing with a deal that went sideways and a member posted back that he thought I was thinking of selling because of a few posts of mine talking about ruminating and researching 50 foot + boats. The member was local to me and PM'd me, we met and a few weeks later they owned our boat. So keep your eyes open and folks here will send you a tip possibly.
Cheers
 
I had the same set up. Here is all you need. Ratchet the bow one D ring. Ratchet the stern - cross to two D rings.

Now here is the key. The swim step D ring (dingy bow end) run a line with a carabiner on both ends premeasured to the D ring on the stern of the dingy, where you want the dink to always set.. The line becomes a break, stopping it in the exact location every time. Now Ratchet the stern tight, that tightens the break so the dingy can NOT slide port or starboard. Last, Ratchet and snug the bow down.
The break line locks the dink from moving. And easy to set the dink same location every time.
Got the bow and the cross stern to the 2 D-rings. I am a little confused about the break line. Do you mean a line between the 2 D-rings at stern or a line between the biw D-ring or stern D-ring. Sorry for being dense.

Flix
 
Got the bow and the cross stern to the 2 D-rings. I am a little confused about the break line. Do you mean a line between the 2 D-rings at stern or a line between the biw D-ring or stern D-ring. Sorry for being dense.

Flix
Flix....can I make another suggestion? Once you've ratcheted to your D-rings, consider 2 simple bungie cords between your dinghy handles (or whatever is solidly mounted to your dinghy) and the grab rail on your aft locker which has backing plates already installed on it. Ive been doing it for years and I don't have to mess with the water side of the dinghy...it's not going anywhere. Additionally any movement of the dinghy in rough waters will be nicely attenuated by the bungie cords. The aft locker DOES NOT support any of the weight or stress of the dinghy.
 
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Can anyone tell me where I can get the little plastic parts that the aft cockpit curtain bottom edge bungee cords attach to? They are screwed to fiberglass near top of transom. Missing one and a few are getting not so pretty.
 

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