410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

Question for you guys who replaced the white plastic cockpit sink and faucet with stainless in your 410's: What did you use for a drain in the new sink?
I've got the stainless sink and faucet in, but went to 2 big box stores, 3 marine stores, a plumbing supply store, and Marine Max parts department looking for a simple solution.
Using a "bar sink" drain means a series of fittings to get down to the nipple for the 5/8" drain line.
The original looks more like a through hull discharge, but I wasn't able to match anything up.
 
Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

I just did this upgrade and ran into the same problem but just ordered:
DescriptionQtyPriceExtended
SCA-19006DRAIN SINK 1.25" POLISHED CHROMED BRASS FOR SINK 10280 WITH FLIP1$11.9911.99


From Hamilton Marine https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/departments


Thanks for the response on the light, I will check it out and hopefully have a burnt out string of lights.bahamabreisus
 
Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

kylemclaughlin said:
I just did this upgrade and ran into the same problem but just ordered:
DescriptionQtyPriceExtended
SCA-19006DRAIN SINK 1.25" POLISHED CHROMED BRASS FOR SINK 10280 WITH FLIP1$11.9911.99


From Hamilton Marine https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/departments


Thanks for the response on the light, I will check it out and hopefully have a burnt out string of lights.bahamabreisus
Click to expand...

I actually ordered that one, got it with the sink, but when I went to install it I found that it won't work without several fittings to get it down to where I can get the 5/8" hose on it.
The problem is that once I put it all together I'd have to drill a hole in the bulkhead that separates the generator panel/fuel selectors under the sink to feed the 5/8" drain hose through. The hose would probably interfere with some wires back there if I did that.
The original drain only drops a couple of inches before turning in a 90 degree elbow with a barbed end, and there is a cutout on the top part of that bulkhead where the drain hose comes across to slip on the barbed nipple.
The original set up looks more like a through hull discharge or deck drain. I looked at a bunch of those, but the diameter of what is on the shelves in the marine stores is too small for the larger diameter hole/drain recess in the new stainless sink.
 
Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

JVM225 said:
I actually ordered that one, got it with the sink, but when I went to install it I found that it won't work without several fittings to get it down to where I can get the 5/8" hose on it.
The problem is that once I put it all together I'd have to drill a hole in the bulkhead that separates the generator panel/fuel selectors under the sink to feed the 5/8" drain hose through. The hose would probably interfere with some wires back there if I did that.
The original drain only drops a couple of inches before turning in a 90 degree elbow with a barbed end, and there is a cutout on the top part of that bulkhead where the drain hose comes across to slip on the barbed nipple.
The original set up looks more like a through hull discharge or deck drain. I looked at a bunch of those, but the diameter of what is on the shelves in the marine stores is too small for the larger diameter hole/drain recess in the new stainless sink.
Click to expand...

When I did that conversion, I ended up using this: "Scandvik 3/4' Hose Barb 10304P"

-Tom
 
Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

I actually added a rubber pee trap and adapted to the existing hose.
 
Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

I think I may have found a solution. It looks like the original was made by a company named Marine East in Indiana. They have a version that looks very similar with a chrome flange. Part #3998C. I ordered one and I'm going to give it a shot.
It looks like anything else I put together would drop the drain lower than I want it to go.
BTW: The stainless faucet and sink are a nice mod. The old sink is a bit of a pain to remove, and I've got more time invested in the drain solution than I would have liked, but I think it was worth it.
 
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Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

I'm guessing that Sea Ray attached the am/fm antenna to the bow rail someplace because I don't see any evidence of one being mounted anywhere on the arch.
Does anyone know where it may be attached and how I can access it?
 
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Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

On 410's there is no separate antenna, there is a small box in the dash that pulls the AM/FM radio signal out of the VHF antenna. Once you roll the dash filler panel down you will see the splitter if you follow the VHF cable from the radio back.
 
Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

Captain Brian said:
On 410's there is no separate antenna, there is a small box in the dash that pulls the AM/FM radio signal out of the VHF antenna. Once you roll the dash filler panel down you will see the splitter if you follow the VHF cable from the radio back.
Click to expand...

Thanks Brian! By "dash filler panel", do you mean the drop open panel with the breakers installed on the back side? Sounds like my AM/FM antenna cable might have been pulled out of that splitter. I've got to see if I can track that splitter box down.
The previous owner had Sirius/XM installed and might have had them disconnect the AM/FM antenna.
 
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Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

By filler panel I should have been clearer, its actually the main dash panel with all of the switches. I call it filler panel because once you take out the perimeter fasteners it rolls down towards you and gives you very good access to most of the main wiring.
 
Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

Captain Brian said:
By filler panel I should have been clearer, its actually the main dash panel with all of the switches. I call it filler panel because once you take out the perimeter fasteners it rolls down towards you and gives you very good access to most of the main wiring.
Click to expand...

Thanks Brian! I'm going to pull that panel and trace the VHF antenna back to see if I can find the splitter box you described, then look to see if I can find a loose Motorola (antenna) plug that comes from the am/fm cable hanging around someplace close to it.
 
Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

Does anyone have a source for a lock assembly for the forward cabin pocket door?
I went to pull the door closed the other night and the little finger pull that pops up broke off of the assembly. There is still enough of it left to pinch and grab, but I'd like to replace it if it's available.
The original Sea Ray part number is 1323807. Just wondering if anyone knows who the manufacturer was for these.
 
Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

JVM225 said:
Does anyone have a source for a lock assembly for the forward cabin pocket door?
I went to pull the door closed the other night and the little finger pull that pops up broke off of the assembly. There is still enough of it left to pinch and grab, but I'd like to replace it if it's available.
The original Sea Ray part number is 1323807. Just wondering if anyone knows who the manufacturer was for these.
Click to expand...
Try Home Depot, you will be surprised!
 
Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

Mine broke a few years ago and I believe I bought the replacement at Home Depot.
 
Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

Impellers for Cat 3126's?
I'm going to make up a kit of spare parts to keep aboard including belts, racor and cat fuel filters, and I want to include an impeller for the raw water pump.
Can someone advise what brand/model the raw water pump is, and the best impeller to keep on hand for it is.
I also keep a good supply of basic tools aboard.
Are there any out of the ordinary tools I'd need to keep on hand for an emergency impeller change?
For routine maintenance:
The one on the port motor looks a lot easier to get to then the starboard.
The first time I do a routine impeller change I'll probably pull the pumps and do it on the bench so I get to see how it goes together.
Hopefully I won't need to do an emergency change before it comes time for routine maintenance, but I like to be prepared.
Thanks!
 
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Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

Caterpillar uses Sherwood seawater pumps. The impeller kit is Sherwood #17000K.

Do not remove the pumps from t he engines just to change impellers, there is no need since they are easily accessible from the front of the pump. The stud pump is difficult only because you have to get behind the engine to remove the cover plate.

There is a special tool needed……..a 3/4"- 16 bolt that is 2.25" LOA. The Sherwood impeller hub is threaded and to avoid the need for a puller, the 3/4" bolt is threaded into the hub and is used to jack the impeller out of the pump housing as the bolt is tightened. If a previous owner has used an aftermarket or Seaboard Marine impeller, you are on your own in trying to remove the old impeller.

Other things needed are some 180 grit emery paper to polish the cover plate inside face, a small fine machinists file to round off the sharp edges on the new keys and a tube of Mercury Extreme Grease to hold the o-ring in place as you reinstall the cover plate
 
Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

fwebster said:
Caterpillar uses Sherwood seawater pumps. The impeller kit is Sherwood #17000K.

Do not remove the pumps from t he engines just to change impellers, there is no need since they are easily accessible from the front of the pump. The stud pump is difficult only because you have to get behind the engine to remove the cover plate.

There is a special tool needed……..a 3/4"- 16 bolt that is 2.25" LOA. The Sherwood impeller hub is threaded and to avoid the need for a puller, the 3/4" bolt is threaded into the hub and is used to jack the impeller out of the pump housing as the bolt is tightened. If a previous owner has used an aftermarket or Seaboard Marine impeller, you are on your own in trying to remove the old impeller.

Other things needed are some 180 grit emery paper to polish the cover plate inside face, a small fine machinists file to round off the sharp edges on the new keys and a tube of Mercury Extreme Grease to hold the o-ring in place as you reinstall the cover plate
Click to expand...

And, rotate the engine so that keyway is on top of the shaft so the key doesn't drop down into the intake hose when you are pulling and installing the impeller......
 
Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

JVM225 said:
Impellers for Cat 3126's?
I'm going to make up a kit of spare parts to keep aboard including belts, racor and cat fuel filters, and I want to include an impeller for the raw water pump.
Can someone advise what brand/model the raw water pump is, and the best impeller to keep on hand for it is.
I also keep a good supply of basic tools aboard.
Are there any out of the ordinary tools I'd need to keep on hand for an emergency impeller change?
For routine maintenance:
The one on the port motor looks a lot easier to get to then the starboard.
The first time I do a routine impeller change I'll probably pull the pumps and do it on the bench so I get to see how it goes together.
Hopefully I won't need to do an emergency change before it comes time for routine maintenance, but I like to be prepared.
Thanks!
Click to expand...

Just a recommendation, if they are original pumps, pull them and replace them now rather than when you don't want to. Not a huge job.
 
Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

If the impellers are more than a year old go ahead and replace them now. If they start to come apart then you have to take more stuff apart so you can dig the impeller blades out of the heat exchanger. I replace mine every year and save last years for a backup. I am never missing blades after one year and almost always missing blades after two years. Get the bolt that Frank suggested to ease removal of the impeller. I use some zip ties to wrap around the impeller blades in order to squeeze them down and make it easier to install the impeller back into the housing. As it slides in you can cut the zip ties off. Also lube up the inside of the housing with dish soap. I can change both of mine in 30-45 minutes. Btw the best way to kill a Diesel engine is overheat it.

Have fun
 
Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

Thanks guys! I'm going to order the impeller kits, special tool, and keep the recommended grease, emery cloth, and small file in the kit.
The dealer I bought the boat from was supposed to have changed the impellers as part of the winterization process in December so I should be good for this season. The temps were nice and steady for the 6 1/2 hour voyage home a few weeks back.
I do like the idea of maybe just installing two new pumps this fall and starting fresh. If I do that, I can go through the old ones and keep them as spares.
Does anyone know the model number of the pumps? I'll start shopping around for them now so I have plenty of time to get them before the fall.
 
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