410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

[dtfeld]

I Changed both last spring.

I'd pull the whole pump and figure out what went wrong...the key should be captured when installed.

 

[Peter Johnson]

Hi - I lost the hatch cover over my boarding ladder on the swim platform. Any ideas where I can get a new one? Cheers, Pete

 

[Stee6043]

Hi - I lost the hatch cover over my boarding ladder on the swim platform. Any ideas where I can get a new one? Cheers, Pete

I wold imagine a fiberglass guy could probably fab one up? Finding the original is probably going to be really hard. Unless you find someone about to replace their OEM swim platform entirely.

If you don't have a local glass guy maybe give swimplatforms.com a call. They might be able to make something that could fit.

 

[Riptide III]

I’m trying to trouble shoot a possible fresh water tank issue. i understand it is not good to run them full as they are “L” shaped and tend to leak at that inner angle. I have removed all the access panels to the tank. I was going to pull it out and test. Then i had the brilliant idea to remove the foam in that area and fill the tank with water in place. As luck would have it the water is still turned off at the boatyard. However, things aren’t adding up.
The label on the tank says Dura Cast 12-1-1999. My boat is a 1997. The foam around the tank in in no way original. It looks like window and door foam. Also the inner angle has a radius, not a sharp angle. I’m thinking there was an early failure and the tank was replaced with a newer, radius version. From what I can visually see there is no crack there.
Can anyone shed some light on the radius vers sharp angle? Did any of them have a sharp angle? Is the foam original?

 

[techmitch]

I’m trying to trouble shoot a possible fresh water tank issue. i understand it is not good to run them full as they are “L” shaped and tend to leak at that inner angle. I have removed all the access panels to the tank. I was going to pull it out and test. Then i had the brilliant idea to remove the foam in that area and fill the tank with water in place. As luck would have it the water is still turned off at the boatyard. However, things aren’t adding up.
The label on the tank says Dura Cast 12-1-1999. My boat is a 1997. The foam around the tank in in no way original. It looks like window and door foam. Also the inner angle has a radius, not a sharp angle. I’m thinking there was an early failure and the tank was replaced with a newer, radius version. From what I can visually see there is no crack there.
Can anyone shed some light on the radius vers sharp angle? Did any of them have a sharp angle? Is the foam original?

I would call them with the info. on that label. Maybe they will have records.

 

[ttmott]

I’m trying to trouble shoot a possible fresh water tank issue. i understand it is not good to run them full as they are “L” shaped and tend to leak at that inner angle. I have removed all the access panels to the tank. I was going to pull it out and test. Then i had the brilliant idea to remove the foam in that area and fill the tank with water in place. As luck would have it the water is still turned off at the boatyard. However, things aren’t adding up.
The label on the tank says Dura Cast 12-1-1999. My boat is a 1997. The foam around the tank in in no way original. It looks like window and door foam. Also the inner angle has a radius, not a sharp angle. I’m thinking there was an early failure and the tank was replaced with a newer, radius version. From what I can visually see there is no crack there.
Can anyone shed some light on the radius vers sharp angle? Did any of them have a sharp angle? Is the foam original?

The foam is definitely not original. When I replaced the tank in my 400DA the new one was identical to the one I removed. My 400DA was a model year 2000.
If you are going to pull the tank out there are a couple of things you should do -
Buy some of those 12X12 click-together rubber floor tiles and put those down on the deck under the tank.
Install some cross braces over the top of the tank resting on the top of the tank - I put some soft rubber strips under aluminum braces. I put them across where that inside corner is to prevent the tank from bulging upward should it accidently be overfilled.

 

[techmitch]

The foam is definitely not original. When I replaced the tank in my 400DA the new one was identical to the one I removed. My 400DA was a model year 2000.
If you are going to pull the tank out there are a couple of things you should do -
Buy some of those 12X12 click-together rubber floor tiles and put those down on the deck under the tank.
Install some cross braces over the top of the tank resting on the top of the tank - I put some soft rubber strips under aluminum braces. I put them across where that inside corner is to prevent the tank from bulging upward should it accidently be overfilled.
View attachment 160006

Great post Tom, looks like the same part#. Check out the date on that doc.

 

[Sgrochow]

Plus one on the non-original. My 1998 40 DA tank developed a small crack at the "L" on the top. I repaired a few years ago using a kayak repair kit (learned on this site). The tank had nothing around it.

I did fill the voids around the tank when reinstalling after repair, was surprised at how the tank bulges without it.

Still holding, have screwed up a bunch of times. (overfilling)

 

[Riptide III]

Thank you guys

 

[Stee6043]

I delivered my front glass panels to the canvas shop yesterday. $1,600 to have my Strataglass replaced with O'Sea. My Strata panels lasted 6 seasons. I only regularly remove the middle panel but all 5 were shot last year. I tried to nurse them along with some polish, didn't do the trick (but did remove the scratches).

I asked them about the more rigid glass since I never remove 4 of the 5 panels. They quoted me $1k per panel!!! No thanks, I'll try my luck again with the "cheap" stuff.

Photo from pull-out last Fall. You can see it's cloudy, it's yellowed, etc. Even if I sell this thing this year, this needed to be done.

But dang...that Smoove sure held up nicely on the foredeck!!!

 

[Strecker25]

I delivered my front glass panels to the canvas shop yesterday. $1,600 to have my Strataglass replaced with O'Sea. My Strata panels lasted 6 seasons. I only regularly remove the middle panel but all 5 were shot last year. I tried to nurse them along with some polish, didn't do the trick (but did remove the scratches).

I asked them about the more rigid glass since I never remove 4 of the 5 panels. They quoted me $1k per panel!!! No thanks, I'll try my luck again with the "cheap" stuff.

Photo from pull-out last Fall. You can see it's cloudy, it's yellowed, etc. Even if I sell this thing this year, this needed to be done.

But dang...that Smoove sure held up nicely on the foredeck!!!
View attachment 160169

I’m doing the same but with the normal thinner stuff. $400 for all 3, since we’ll get the whole canvas done in probably 5 years. My strata cracked last year after something like 10 years, so it lasted a long time.

 

[Jaybeaux]

But dang...that Smoove sure held up nicely on the foredeck!!!

Do people look at you funny when you tell them that you wax your non-skid? Ha! I can't stand chalky non-skid. Plus, all the dirt and schmuts sticks to it. Plus, waxing non-skid is super easy!

Looks great!

Jaybeaux

PS....I know that those polycarbonate panels are expensive. I had them on my 420. But dang they look good. I replaced them in January 2020. It was $3,500 back then. Five panels. We sold the 420 in July 2021 but it is slipped behind me. The panels still look great.

 

[TheBobC]

I am looking to add my Fusion 270 radio to my NMEA2000 network so I can control/see it on my Garmin MFD's. Anyone know of a good path from the helm to the cabinet above the sofa on the left where the radio is installed? I did this on my 340, but that was much easier as the radio was in the electrical cabinet.

 

[Strecker25]

I am looking to add my Fusion 270 radio to my NMEA2000 network so I can control/see it on my Garmin MFD's. Anyone know of a good path from the helm to the cabinet above the sofa on the left where the radio is installed? I did this on my 340, but that was much easier as the radio was in the electrical cabinet.

Our 2002 410 has a corrugated plastic conduit that runs all the way up to the radio and beyond, yours may have something similar. You can see it by pulling some of the access panels inside the cabinets above the sofa

 

[Stee6043]

Do people look at you funny when you tell them that you wax your non-skid? Ha! I can't stand chalky non-skid. Plus, all the dirt and schmuts sticks to it. Plus, waxing non-skid is super easy!

Looks great!

Jaybeaux

PS....I know that those polycarbonate panels are expensive. I had them on my 420. But dang they look good. I replaced them in January 2020. It was $3,500 back then. Five panels. We sold the 420 in July 2021 but it is slipped behind me. The panels still look great.

Based on some bad advice I received, I waxed everything but the non-skid my first year owning my 340. Never again! It annoyed me every time I was up on the bow of the boat that entire summer. Especially with polarizing sunglasses on

 

[Stee6043]

Our 2002 410 has a corrugated plastic conduit that runs all the way up to the radio and beyond, yours may have something similar. You can see it by pulling some of the access panels inside the cabinets above the sofa

+1.

Start by pulling the subwoofer out and having a look inside the wall cavity...

 

[yobub]

I am looking to add my Fusion 270 radio to my NMEA2000 network so I can control/see it on my Garmin MFD's. Anyone know of a good path from the helm to the cabinet above the sofa on the left where the radio is installed? I did this on my 340, but that was much easier as the radio was in the electrical cabinet.

I can't see what boat you have, but I ran a NMEA cable from the helm to the stereo in the cabin.

Take apart the dash. Get a couple of good flashlights. You will see cables running up into the cabin. Get a metal fish tape and run it up along those cables. On my boat the midcabin head is in the starboard side. There is a medicine cabinet above the toilet. Pull that cabinet out and it gives you access to where those cables run. You should be able to spot your fish tape. Grab it, pull it through. You can then see how to run the next section behind the cabinets in the salon. You can remove panels in the back of those cabinets to run the tape the rest of the way. Just pull the back panels out all along the way.

Then use the fish tape to pull the NMEA cable from the stereo back to the helm. If you are smart you will include a pull wire that you will recognize so you can make it easier the next time.

 

[TheBobC]

I have a 1999 400 DA. How does the medicine cabinet come out? I see no screws, just the outlet

 

[yobub]

I have a 1999 400 DA. How does the medicine cabinet come out? I see no screws, just the outlet

I don't remember exactly how, but there are screws on mu '98 400DA. If I get up to the boat in the next couple of days I will take a picture, otherwise someone else might remember. I am positive I took it out for the NMEA cable and also for another project.

 

[RollerCoastr]

I don't remember exactly how, but there are screws on mu '98 400DA. If I get up to the boat in the next couple of days I will take a picture, otherwise someone else might remember. I am positive I took it out for the NMEA cable and also for another project.

For some reason my memory on this is foggy too, and I have even less excuse because I've done it twice!

I haven't removed my medicine cabinet. I think it was helpful to have the power panels swung open.

@TheBobC, I've done this twice because I failed to plan for the future. In the run between the stereo cabinet/fwd bulkhead-mounted TV and the dash, I've made use of a VGA cable, speaker wires, amplifier power cables, an S-video cable, an ethernet cable, and I wish I had HDMI.