410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

Strecker25 said:
I should start replacing them as well. Where’d you get em?
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I've been a staunch supporter of Duracells (Deka) from Batteries Plus for the past 10 years or so. Cheap, can count on them for 3-4 seasons (or more).

I had one bank that needed to be replaced but decided to do all 4 while I was in there. 2 were from 2019, the other 2 from 2020. My generator battery is from 2017 and still going strong (also a Duracell). I may replace that one before launch as well. I just know it'll take a crap if I don't.

Batteries Plus is running 15% off through this Thursday.

1713125074247.png
 
Stee6043 said:
I've been a staunch supporter of Duracells (Deka) from Batteries Plus for the past 10 years or so. Cheap, can count on them for 3-4 seasons (or more).

I had one bank that needed to be replaced but decided to do all 4 while I was in there. 2 were from 2019, the other 2 from 2020. My generator battery is from 2017 and still going strong (also a Duracell). I may replace that one before launch as well. I just know it'll take a crap if I don't.

Batteries Plus is running 15% off through this Thursday.

View attachment 162151
Click to expand...

That’s a good price. I’ve done the Wally worlds for the last 6-7 years and also get 4-5 years but they’ve gone up for the DC29 and 31’s. Maybe I’ll give these a go
 
Apologize for hijacking thread but for me starting a new thread has been a challenge. Sorry

Symptoms


Could not start stb engine (turned over without issue, port eng started)


Stb unswitched breaker was popped and repeatably popped every time tried to switch to on position


Smell of burnt insulation and very slight smoke


Did not have a lot time to troubleshoot, going down (boat 1.15 minutes away) to boat this AM with elec schematics.


My interpretation of the schematics says the stb unswitched breaker feeds system monitor (which I have never found, dont believe I have), cabin stereo memory, control station switch, fwd bilge pump, aft sump pump, control station switch, aft bilge pump, fwd emergency pump, emergency bilge pump, eng sync, blower controller line 1, blower controller line 2, plus at the bus bar (believe the one in main dc breaker panel in eng room. All of the above comes of of plug 17 drawing 09-601 (5 of 5) rev 3 EXCEPT eng unswitched bus bar drawing 09-601 (4 of 5)


Will check eng room components and wires(if i can find) from above and hope i find something other than one to eng (assume this if bad means ECM).


If anyone has any direction or past experience it will be appreciated
 
Need some pictures or screen shots of what you looking at, but I would suspect a fuel solenoid based on description.
 
First time boat owners of a 2001 410 DA. Filled up the freshwater tank and discovered a leak on the port side steps in the forward berth. Came to the conclusion it was the vent hose that is leaking from the freshwater hold (only leaked when the tank started overflowing from the input. Anyone else had this issue and/or has anyone replaced/changed this hose?
 
dtfeld said:
Need some pictures or screen shots of what you looking at, but I would suspect a fuel solenoid based on description.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your input.
It is my understanding(and that sure is a leap of faith!) that on all full electronic common rail cummins eng require a current supply to run/start. My stb eng has a breaker labeled "unswitched eng" and it keeps popping off as in a short somewhere. In trying(no success) to troubleshoot issue I checked voltage to port eng(runs fine no issues) and got 29.2V. This surprised me as I was expecting 12v. Converter somewhere in that circuit? For the stb eng(gymnastics with breaker required here) I got 22V! My thinking is one of the wires fed from that breaker has a short. I plan on isolating(looks to be a real real pain) each wire on that circuit and see which one pops the breaker and than hopefully find that physical wire.
Thats my plan
 
Cmking said:
First time boat owners of a 2001 410 SA. Filled up the freshwater tank and discovered a leak on the port side steps in the forward berth. Came to the conclusion it was the vent hose that is leaking from the freshwater hold (only leaked when the tank started overflowing from the input. Anyone else had this issue and/or has anyone replaced/changed this hose?
Click to expand...

I don't know if the 400/410 share the same fresh water tank but it's quite common to develop cracks at the top of these tanks due to the design. Many/most of us avoid filling the tanks full when we're going to be running any kind of distance to prevent this, if possible. You may want to inspect the tank. It may not be your vent.

Welcome, by the way. For what its worth your boat is a 410 DA. In your sig you show SD which is a Sundeck. SB is the Sedan Bridge. DA is the Sundancer. AC is aft cabin. I don't think they've invented an SA yet :)
 
exsailer said:
Thanks for your input.
It is my understanding(and that sure is a leap of faith!) that on all full electronic common rail cummins eng require a current supply to run/start. My stb eng has a breaker labeled "unswitched eng" and it keeps popping off as in a short somewhere. In trying(no success) to troubleshoot issue I checked voltage to port eng(runs fine no issues) and got 29.2V. This surprised me as I was expecting 12v. Converter somewhere in that circuit? For the stb eng(gymnastics with breaker required here) I got 22V! My thinking is one of the wires fed from that breaker has a short. I plan on isolating(looks to be a real real pain) each wire on that circuit and see which one pops the breaker and than hopefully find that physical wire.
Thats my plan
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The unswitched engine circuit is for the engine's ECM. If like my Cummins that wire lands on a threaded stud near the engine's ECM and is only crimped to a ring terminal. It's not that secure looking and can easily short to anything around it. Here is a pic of it on the QSM11 -
CumminsECMPwr.jpg
 
ttmott said:
The unswitched engine circuit is for the engine's ECM. If like my Cummins that wire lands on a threaded stud near the engine's ECM and is only crimped to a ring terminal. It's not that secure looking and can easily short to anything around it. Here is a pic of it on the QSM11 -
View attachment 162247
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Mine has both a positive and negitive stud there. I checked voltage at these studs and I did not feel any slop with the oring crimp but I will look again. Any idea where the voltage gets boosted from 12v to 29V?
 
exsailer said:
Mine has both a positive and negitive stud there. I checked voltage at these studs and I did not feel any slop with the oring crimp but I will look again. Any idea where the voltage gets boosted from 12v to 29V?
Click to expand...
Boosted??
 
exsailer said:
Thanks for your input.
It is my understanding(and that sure is a leap of faith!) that on all full electronic common rail cummins eng require a current supply to run/start. My stb eng has a breaker labeled "unswitched eng" and it keeps popping off as in a short somewhere. In trying(no success) to troubleshoot issue I checked voltage to port eng(runs fine no issues) and got 29.2V. This surprised me as I was expecting 12v. Converter somewhere in that circuit? For the stb eng(gymnastics with breaker required here) I got 22V! My thinking is one of the wires fed from that breaker has a short. I plan on isolating(looks to be a real real pain) each wire on that circuit and see which one pops the breaker and than hopefully find that physical wire.
Thats my plan
Click to expand...
I just realized your boat has Cummins. Most of the 400/410 came with CATs. I think your going to get a much better help in the correct Cummins thread.
 
ttmott said:
Boosted??
Click to expand...
Transformed from 12v to ~29V. Do they combine the batteries in series to something around 29V
Not chopped liver. You cannot imagine the rabbit holes I go down just to get to this point
 
exsailer said:
Transformed from 12v to ~29V. Do they combine the batteries in series to something around 29V
Not chopped liver. You cannot imagine the rabbit holes I go down just to get to this point
Click to expand...
I don't know of any Sea Ray that size that is higher than 12 volts. That is unless your engines have 24 volt starters and alternators which I doubt. My boat is 12 volt throughout. Cummins engines have a feature to install a voltage reduction module because all Cummins ECM's are 12 volt DC but some have 24 volt starters and alternators. So, I'm still perplexed on the "29V".
 
dtfeld said:
I just realized your boat has Cummins. Most of the 400/410 came with CATs. I think your going to get a much better help in the correct Cummins thread.
Click to expand...
Confession. I have grossly misinterpreted the elec schematics and to make my level of stupidity complete I incorrectly used my volt meter and led us down a path of 29 volts.

Starting over and i will confirm after weekend I now believe the problem rests with a short in the ecm power cable. I will dig into this w/e and confirm back here.
 
Damn it! The day before I'm due to splash my hatch lift actuator decided to shit the bed. Its suddenly struggling, lifts the hatch at a snail's pace and constantly popping the fuse. Time to check the electrical connections for corrosion. If they're good, next step is to tear it down and lube it in hope's that fixes it. In the interim, if anybody's replaced theirs, a model number/manufacturer would be greatly appreciated..
 
Chris L said:
Damn it! The day before I'm due to splash my hatch lift actuator decided to shit the bed. Its suddenly struggling, lifts the hatch at a snail's pace and constantly popping the fuse. Time to check the electrical connections for corrosion. If they're good, next step is to tear it down and lube it in hope's that fixes it. In the interim, if anybody's replaced theirs, a model number/manufacturer would be greatly appreciated..
Click to expand...
There is nothing to lube on the actuator. Motion industries can make a new one. Is it 1500 lb static lift 24 inch

MOTION INDUSTRIES
11274 THREADSTONE LANE
KNOXVILLE, TN 37932
PHONE : 8655461704

DM12-21B5-24SY-SR ACTUATOR 1 EA $550.640 $550.64
ITEM NO: 07314284
 
I have a 98 400 Sundance with cat 3116 diesels and was looking at mounting a Seadoo Spark on the swim platform. Weight is around 500lbs
and I was looking at a Hurley H30 davit
The ladder on my platform is in the middle so that is one issue I will have to address. Has anyone done this?
 
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